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"No Input Signal" Display Issue


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8 replies to this topic

#1 MelissaPleases

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Posted 08 November 2018 - 03:23 PM

Well... I can say one thing with certainty: When I have issues, they come in waves.

 

My primary system (specs in my signature), recently had a motherboard failure. That's fine, I can save my pennies for an upgrade. Now, my backup machine is having an issue that I can't figure out.

 

The machine in question is running Windows 7 Ultimate. It has:

 

Motherboard: MSI 890FXA-GD70 Motherboard

CPU: AMD Phenom II X6 1090T Black Edition Thuban 6-Core 3.2 GHz Socket AM3

GPU: HIS Radeon HD6870

 

I've suddenly lost all display. I have tried using five different displays, I have used the GPU that's in the machine as well as the GPU from my primary machine. I have swapped cables multiple times. I have tried using each PCI slot with each GPU. Each time I turn the machine on, the display tells me, "No Input Signal," or "No Signal."

 

Does anyone have a clue what might be happening?


~   Notorious Thread Killer   ~


Case: CoolerMaster Storm Trooper Full ATX | Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-Z170X | CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 8M Skylake Quad-Core | GPU: MSI Radeon R9 390X 8GB 512-Bit | PSU: EVGA 80 PLUS GOLD 850 W | RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR4 SDRAM [4x8GB] Audio: Integrated Creative Sound Core 3D 5.1 | Internal Storage: Samsung 2 TB HDD | Seagate 1 TB HDD | Samsung 500GB SSD [x2] | Mushkin 500GB SSD | External Storage: Seagate 2TB | Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS324 Dual Layer

Display 1: AOC I2757Fh 27" | Display 2 & 3: LG 24MP57HQ-P 24" | Operating Systems: OS 1: Windows 10 Professional | OS 2: Linux Mint Cinnamon | OS 3: Windows 7 Ultimate x-64 | Antivirus: MS Security Essentials | Firewall: Windows Firewall


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#2 mikey11

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Posted 08 November 2018 - 04:48 PM

if your motherboard has on board video output try that....does it work then?

 

first remove the GPU card completely before trying this


Edited by mikey11, 08 November 2018 - 04:48 PM.


#3 MelissaPleases

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Posted 08 November 2018 - 07:40 PM

The motherboard has no integrated graphics, unfortunately. 


~   Notorious Thread Killer   ~


Case: CoolerMaster Storm Trooper Full ATX | Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-Z170X | CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 8M Skylake Quad-Core | GPU: MSI Radeon R9 390X 8GB 512-Bit | PSU: EVGA 80 PLUS GOLD 850 W | RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR4 SDRAM [4x8GB] Audio: Integrated Creative Sound Core 3D 5.1 | Internal Storage: Samsung 2 TB HDD | Seagate 1 TB HDD | Samsung 500GB SSD [x2] | Mushkin 500GB SSD | External Storage: Seagate 2TB | Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS324 Dual Layer

Display 1: AOC I2757Fh 27" | Display 2 & 3: LG 24MP57HQ-P 24" | Operating Systems: OS 1: Windows 10 Professional | OS 2: Linux Mint Cinnamon | OS 3: Windows 7 Ultimate x-64 | Antivirus: MS Security Essentials | Firewall: Windows Firewall


#4 PhillPower2

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Posted 10 November 2018 - 09:13 AM

Hello again MelissaPleases,

 

Can you post the brand and model name or number of the PSU that was originally in use with this computer.

 

How many sticks of RAM do you have.



#5 MelissaPleases

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Posted 12 November 2018 - 07:15 AM

Hi, PhilPower2! When issues come up, they come in waves, it seems.

 

The original PSU is a Thermaltake ToughPower 750w, model # TP-750AH2NFG. I've swapped it out for the PSU listed in my signature, with the same results.

 

It has four Corsair XMS3 DDR3 4GB RAM sticks.

 

Edit: I have also tried swapping out the GPU from the system in my signature, with the same result. I should also note that this was intermittent initially - It did this once, I rebooted and it was fine for a couple of days; it did it again, I rebooted, it was fine. Then it just died.


Edited by MelissaPleases, 12 November 2018 - 08:11 AM.

~   Notorious Thread Killer   ~


Case: CoolerMaster Storm Trooper Full ATX | Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-Z170X | CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 8M Skylake Quad-Core | GPU: MSI Radeon R9 390X 8GB 512-Bit | PSU: EVGA 80 PLUS GOLD 850 W | RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR4 SDRAM [4x8GB] Audio: Integrated Creative Sound Core 3D 5.1 | Internal Storage: Samsung 2 TB HDD | Seagate 1 TB HDD | Samsung 500GB SSD [x2] | Mushkin 500GB SSD | External Storage: Seagate 2TB | Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS324 Dual Layer

Display 1: AOC I2757Fh 27" | Display 2 & 3: LG 24MP57HQ-P 24" | Operating Systems: OS 1: Windows 10 Professional | OS 2: Linux Mint Cinnamon | OS 3: Windows 7 Ultimate x-64 | Antivirus: MS Security Essentials | Firewall: Windows Firewall


#6 mikey11

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Posted 12 November 2018 - 08:05 AM

have you tried the monitor with another system, to make sure the monitor works?



#7 MelissaPleases

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Posted 12 November 2018 - 08:12 AM

have you tried the monitor with another system, to make sure the monitor works?

 

I have a total of five monitors in the room, I've tried each of them. No change.

 

Edit: I've also connected the original monitor to the laptop, and it works fine. At the moment, I have one system down with a bad motherboard (the system in my signature), and this issue has now popped up on my old machine. I'm basically stuck with a low-end laptop right now, and it's driving me crazy!


Edited by MelissaPleases, 12 November 2018 - 08:19 AM.

~   Notorious Thread Killer   ~


Case: CoolerMaster Storm Trooper Full ATX | Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-Z170X | CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 8M Skylake Quad-Core | GPU: MSI Radeon R9 390X 8GB 512-Bit | PSU: EVGA 80 PLUS GOLD 850 W | RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR4 SDRAM [4x8GB] Audio: Integrated Creative Sound Core 3D 5.1 | Internal Storage: Samsung 2 TB HDD | Seagate 1 TB HDD | Samsung 500GB SSD [x2] | Mushkin 500GB SSD | External Storage: Seagate 2TB | Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS324 Dual Layer

Display 1: AOC I2757Fh 27" | Display 2 & 3: LG 24MP57HQ-P 24" | Operating Systems: OS 1: Windows 10 Professional | OS 2: Linux Mint Cinnamon | OS 3: Windows 7 Ultimate x-64 | Antivirus: MS Security Essentials | Firewall: Windows Firewall


#8 falcon17

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Posted 13 November 2018 - 03:24 PM

Have you tried using a different cable from computer to monitor?



#9 PhillPower2

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Posted 14 November 2018 - 03:29 PM

It has four Corsair XMS3 DDR3 4GB RAM sticks.

 

 

Try removing all of the RAM and then testing with only one stick at a time in DIMM slot one which is the slot nearest to the CPU.

 

Two other steps for you to do, clear the CMOS by removing the CR2032 battery from the motherboard for ten minutes or so and then replace it, this will clear any possible bad BIOS settings, if using a USB type keyboard, if you have or can borrow one, try a wired PS/2 type keyboard.






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