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Need help in identifying missing component from laptop's MBoard.


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#1 Robert0220

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Posted 15 July 2018 - 04:20 AM

Hello, i am robin, new around here, know about BleepingComputers now since quite a awhile, i find the forum very useful and informative, so decided i'll ask the community if they can provide  me, hopefully, with a little information about finding a component that is missing from my motherboard.   hope this is the right place  posting this question, apologies if it isn't. 


So i have a laptop that kept overheating sometimes, toked it apart and cleaned it.. now here's the funny part, while assembling it back together, i genuinely managed to scratch the PCB so bad that a small component got knocked off of it,  couldn't find the component nowhere, the chip came off yet the pads are still on the board, i've was hoping i could take a closer look at it to see if there's any information written on the component that could indicate what it is or to get an exact match.
Besides that, on the MB right bellow where the component was, is written "PQ56"  i assume that's what it was called, or what needs to be put there.
 
 after doing some digging on the internet, all i could find out is that it's some sort of "TRANZISTOR" but i'm not sure about this neither. 

I'm providing 2 pictures one with the actual damaged MB and another one i've found on the internet that show's us how the component looked like.

(My board - 
Attached File  Scratch 2 Same pos.jpg   155.28KB   0 downloads                     https://imgur.com/DCM0VJ0
(Internet -  [Attached File  Toshiba-Satellite2-L750-L755-Intel-Laptop-intel-Motherboard-_57.jpg   131.78KB   0 downloads
https://imgur.com/KgJzIoB

Toshiba satellite - L755 
Please let me know if you need anything else to know about, Thank you.


Edited by Robert0220, 15 July 2018 - 06:25 AM.


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#2 MadmanRB

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Posted 15 July 2018 - 11:35 AM

yeah it appears to be a semiconductor of some sort,

But due to the damage you caused this may be beyond hope, typically a scratch on a motherboard can casuse some serious issues such as shorting or not even working.

Since the part seems so hard to find online though it may be a bit of bad luck for your machine and you may need a new motherboard as there is no guarantee even if you found a replacement part the motherboard may be dead thanks to the damage you caused. (you also tore it from the soldering points, not good)

Its up to you if you wished to do that but considering the price of a new motherboard of your laptop being so high you may be better off replacing the machine

https://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-Satellite-Motherboard-A000080670-31BLBMB00C/dp/B00DEPFTZY

 

$200 right there, ounch.

 

I mean you may be able to find it cheaper but I honestly cannot find your transistor online


Edited by MadmanRB, 15 July 2018 - 11:39 AM.

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#3 mjd420nova

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Posted 15 July 2018 - 12:30 PM

Just judging by the six pin configuration and the traces on the board, I'd say this is a regulator for five volts.  The size of the  traces on four of the legs is a clue and some tracing on the board to a connector, it could even be for a USB port??



#4 the_patriot11

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Posted 15 July 2018 - 12:33 PM

If you could find the part and are handy with a soder gun, you come probably fix it...question is is do you have the technical know how to do it? And in my experience even with a good soder jib you run only a 50% chance of it lasting any length of time, so i guess is the laptop worth it to you?

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Primary system: Motherboard: ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3, Processor: AMD Phenom II x4 945, Memory: 16 gigs of Patriot G2 DDR3 1600, Video: AMD Sapphire Nitro R9 380, Storage: 1 WD 500 gig HD, 1 Hitachi 500 gig HD, and Power supply: Coolermaster 750 watt, OS: Windows 10 64 bit. 

Media Center: Motherboard: Gigabyte mp61p-S3, Processor: AMD Athlon 64 x2 6000+, Memory: 6 gigs Patriot DDR2 800, Video: Gigabyte GeForce GT730, Storage: 500 gig Hitachi, PSU: Seasonic M1211 620W full modular, OS: Windows 10.

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#5 Robert0220

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Posted 15 July 2018 - 01:28 PM

Just judging by the six pin configuration and the traces on the board, I'd say this is a regulator for five volts.  The size of the  traces on four of the legs is a clue and some tracing on the board to a connector, it could even be for a USB port??

You might be right about the voltage and regulator, since It goes right to the sound chip !! found it out the hard way as i booted the system up not knowing a vital component was missing at that time, and it wouldn't start at first but after 4 tries it ran. The sound chip get's so hot it can burn your skin. 

Now considering that i fired it up and the sound chip was very hot, i might  have just broke the damn chip. BUT i still wanna try and fix this thing if possible.       


Any ideas ??



#6 Robert0220

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Posted 15 July 2018 - 01:35 PM

If you could find the part and are handy with a soder gun, you come probably fix it...question is is do you have the technical know how to do it? And in my experience even with a good soder jib you run only a 50% chance of it lasting any length of time, so i guess is the laptop worth it to you?

What do you mean ?? If i could clean the board up, and solder the new component back to it's place, the board or the component soldered, wouldn't live that much as it would have originally ??    

I do have some experience in soldering, not much tho but it would be sufficient to do the job, as for the board it is important to me since i'm in a difficult time and i can't spend money for a new MB or laptop that is as decent as this one.

 



#7 Robert0220

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Posted 15 July 2018 - 01:41 PM

Hey thank you very much for showing interest on my situation here, you might be right, but if there's a slight chance that it can be fixed, i wanna try it.  If i would just know what type of component goes there, it doesn't has to be the same maybe works with an alternative idk, best would be the same exact model but i couldn't find it on the internet either. 

As for the copper rails, i've checked them with a magnifying glass, and the appear to be intact, i honestly hope they don't cause any interference or shortages.  

 

 

yeah it appears to be a semiconductor of some sort,

But due to the damage you caused this may be beyond hope, typically a scratch on a motherboard can casuse some serious issues such as shorting or not even working.

Since the part seems so hard to find online though it may be a bit of bad luck for your machine and you may need a new motherboard as there is no guarantee even if you found a replacement part the motherboard may be dead thanks to the damage you caused. (you also tore it from the soldering points, not good)

Its up to you if you wished to do that but considering the price of a new motherboard of your laptop being so high you may be better off replacing the machine

https://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-Satellite-Motherboard-A000080670-31BLBMB00C/dp/B00DEPFTZY

 

$200 right there, ounch.

 

I mean you may be able to find it cheaper but I honestly cannot find your transistor online



#8 the_patriot11

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Posted 15 July 2018 - 02:09 PM

I can find many semi conductors that visibly look like theyd work from a simple google search, but without knowing the manufacturer specs as for what specific conductor belongs there, it would be impossible to tell you if theyd work or not.


picard5.jpg

 

Primary system: Motherboard: ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3, Processor: AMD Phenom II x4 945, Memory: 16 gigs of Patriot G2 DDR3 1600, Video: AMD Sapphire Nitro R9 380, Storage: 1 WD 500 gig HD, 1 Hitachi 500 gig HD, and Power supply: Coolermaster 750 watt, OS: Windows 10 64 bit. 

Media Center: Motherboard: Gigabyte mp61p-S3, Processor: AMD Athlon 64 x2 6000+, Memory: 6 gigs Patriot DDR2 800, Video: Gigabyte GeForce GT730, Storage: 500 gig Hitachi, PSU: Seasonic M1211 620W full modular, OS: Windows 10.

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#9 mjd420nova

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Posted 15 July 2018 - 02:38 PM

I've tackled a few with chips blown off the board, usually USB when clients want to run a fridge or coffee maker.  Some were faulty cables that were burning cable under a rug.  Traces can be rebuilt and even replicated where they have been lifted or carbonized.  I use a five time magnifier on a static free workspace.  Close inspection may reveal some goughes on the trace and even plate thrus can turn cold from impact.



#10 lti

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Posted 15 July 2018 - 04:01 PM

If this board is marked DA0BLBMB6F0, then that is an AO6402A. I have that schematic because my Satellite L750 uses that board. It is easy to find on the internet.

 

It looks like that connects to the chipset (PCH).

 

The hot sound chip is a common problem with this board. Mine did the same thing, and eventually the internal speakers stopped working (headphones still work).


Edited by lti, 15 July 2018 - 04:08 PM.


#11 Platypus

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Posted 15 July 2018 - 07:07 PM

Mine did the same thing, and eventually the internal speakers stopped working (headphones still work).


Yep, mine too! Very handy that you have the schematic.

@Robert0220 > If you find the dislodged chip, which is a switching MOSFET, or buy a replacement online, it has to be soldered in place facing the right way. Pin 1, which has the locating dimple cast in the body adjacent to it, needs to be at the end which has the 4 legs soldered to one pad. (The round white blob on the silk screened outline matches up with the marking dimple on pin 1.)

Edited by Platypus, 15 July 2018 - 07:12 PM.

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#12 Robert0220

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Posted 16 July 2018 - 01:54 AM

If this board is marked DA0BLBMB6F0, then that is an AO6402A. I have that schematic because my Satellite L750 uses that board. It is easy to find on the internet.

 

It looks like that connects to the chipset (PCH).

 

The hot sound chip is a common problem with this board. Mine did the same thing, and eventually the internal speakers stopped working (headphones still work).

 

 

 

Mine did the same thing, and eventually the internal speakers stopped working (headphones still work).


Yep, mine too! Very handy that you have the schematic.

@Robert0220 > If you find the dislodged chip, which is a switching MOSFET, or buy a replacement online, it has to be soldered in place facing the right way. Pin 1, which has the locating dimple cast in the body adjacent to it, needs to be at the end which has the 4 legs soldered to one pad. (The round white blob on the silk screened outline matches up with the marking dimple on pin 1.)

 

Thank you all for taking the time to help a stranger out. !!   This topic is SOLVED and can be closed if has to.  :clapping: 

Special thanks to   

lti found the darn thing, finally !!  Thank you very much.  :bounce: (Now all i need is to get one if possible.)
Platypus  Thank you ! was about to ask sombody how to place it in the right position.  i've already wrote the instructions down, very handy.   


Edited by Robert0220, 16 July 2018 - 02:05 AM.


#13 Robert0220

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Posted 16 July 2018 - 02:11 AM

I can find many semi conductors that visibly look like theyd work from a simple google search, but without knowing the manufacturer specs as for what specific conductor belongs there, it would be impossible to tell you if theyd work or not.

https://www.startcomponents.com/ro/parts/Alpha-and-Omega-Semiconductor,Inc/AO6402A.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/SOP-6-AO6402-10pcs-lot/1775631_32334099602.html
Somebody also gave me the schematics - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6IqcVTk0jpYcDh6cGd4X3lZQUE/view

He said it's related to "  DC-DC Converters
Battery Power Management
ORing FET/Load Switch
It's listed in the schematic on page 26 here, and I'm pretty sure it is being used in power management"


 

AO6402A !  Any alternatives ?? Please do let me know if you find one, this one is not available in my country.
 


Edited by Robert0220, 16 July 2018 - 02:28 AM.


#14 Platypus

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Posted 16 July 2018 - 03:45 AM

this one is not available in my country.


What location are you in? International suppliers should be able to ship to most places, e.g. Mouser stock them:

https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Diodes-Incorporated/ZXMN3A01E6TA?qs=%2fha2pyFadujYnjC9a6izztrJr7KyO1T%2fEDo4ele7d04XPDEHRoYCSEQaionmTw7p

https://au.mouser.com/localsites.aspx

Note: my links default to Australian, as that's where I am...

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#15 the_patriot11

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Posted 16 July 2018 - 04:14 AM

Glad you got it figured out. 


picard5.jpg

 

Primary system: Motherboard: ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3, Processor: AMD Phenom II x4 945, Memory: 16 gigs of Patriot G2 DDR3 1600, Video: AMD Sapphire Nitro R9 380, Storage: 1 WD 500 gig HD, 1 Hitachi 500 gig HD, and Power supply: Coolermaster 750 watt, OS: Windows 10 64 bit. 

Media Center: Motherboard: Gigabyte mp61p-S3, Processor: AMD Athlon 64 x2 6000+, Memory: 6 gigs Patriot DDR2 800, Video: Gigabyte GeForce GT730, Storage: 500 gig Hitachi, PSU: Seasonic M1211 620W full modular, OS: Windows 10.

If I don't reply within 24 hours of your reply, feel free to send me a pm.





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