Topic is partially self-explanatory, after reading, one will see that while I can build a PC, even overclock one, don't know the first thing about these critical voltages. So here I am, and please, keep it simple, as I don't understand the first major technical thing inside of the UEFI when it comes to system tuning, other than how to increase the multiplier to bump the GHz levels upwards. While this CPU does have a Turbo Boost, may as well not be there, as I've been running at Turbo (4.4GHz constant) since CPU was new in 2015.
My best PC, consisting of a ASUS Z97 PRO Gamer (the non-wireless variant), i7-4790K & 32GB of GSkill Trident X RAM (latter running overclocked XMP Mode #1), running decently, am soon going for a delid with liquid metal, which may mean a revisit to this Topic be later necessary. My long term goals are to run at somewhere in the neighborhood of 4.8 to 5.0GHz (running at 4.6GHz as of this post).
What concerns me more than anything right now, isn't so much about the overclocking of the CPU. Which is easily done by adjustment of the multiplier. Stock is 40, was raised to 42, then a long time at 44, and this morning went to 45 & right after, 46, still running great, no BSOD (so far). Am a bit concerned about voltage, because to be honest, don't know what I'm doing. I never really looked to see what the stock voltages were, nor to see if any overclocking bumped this value up. From what I've read, it's best not to run a CPU at more than 1.3V, however, opened the Intel Extreme Tuning Utility to run a benchmark (note that I don't make adjustments with this, just bench & upload to HWBOT for submission. One thing I have noticed, is with higher frequencies, the more heat & why am going for a delid. In hopes of accomplishing two things, reducing temps & being able to clock my system like never before while running cooler at doing so.
So first things first. Here's a pic that shows what I presume to be the current voltage fed to the CPU, which if I understand correct, is over 1.3V.
Secondly, if it's overvolted, how do I reduce this while maintaining the CPU running at 4.6GHz? I'd assume this would make it run cooler within itself, although also gather this must be performed in very small increments, reboot, benchmark with whatever software I can (I don't do Prime95 because Ivy Bridge/Haswell owners are advised not to). One of my favorites to use are Bitsum ThreadRacer, being that I'm a big fan of their Process Lasso app & have a Lifetime Home key (unlimited PC's, as long as they're mine!). One can set ThreadRacer (in seconds) to run for as long as needed, example if a certain brand of thermal paste takes a couple of hours to break in for best results, then it runs for 7200 seconds. If using Arctic Silver 5 (rare anymore), I'd split that into a couple two hour sessions, followed by a couple of 4 hours, and keep increasing until the 200 hours are met, with a 15 minute cool down between runs, the final being a 24 hour run. From there, will let the thermal paste cure itself during normal usage.
Yet today, am using more of Arctic MX-4 & Noctua NT-H1, so there's no need for a 200 hour break in, the first has an 8 year warranty, the second needs more frequent replacement. To be honest, none comes close to their lifetime max because I clean my computers often, it's not unusual for me to replace the thermal paste yearly on some machines, with a max of two years on any.
My immediate concern is if my current voltage is 'too high' and if so, how do I go about lowering these? Please feel free to link instructions, as I don't know the meaning of all of the UEFI advanced controls, just know how to build a PC & OC the CPU & GPU of a system afterwards. For now voltages are new to me, yet to meet my long term goals, won't be able to dodge knowing how to set this for much longer.
Speccy specs are as follows:
HWMonitor Log also attached, please feel free to ask for any additional data. Should I have issues with understanding how to submit whatever's needed, will ask, there's no shame in doing so. Would rather swallow a bit of pride than cook a $335 CPU that's $200 more if purchased new today (if can be found & seller is honest).
Edited by cat1092, 12 March 2018 - 06:47 PM.