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Help Computer Freezing. Possible RAM slot issues


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#1 MysterioMask

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 02:13 AM

Recently I have been having random freezing problems and some bsods.  I was suggested I post here instead.  If you want to read the whole post at the bsod forum heres the link https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/t/665943/help-computer-randomly-freezing/     Basically my computer has been freezing at random, and I don't know why.  Tested the ram with memtest86 and only got 1 error.ran the ram one ram at a time and all seemed to be fine in slot one.  so moved onto the other 3 slots.  when I put the ram into the other 3 slots I once again got freezing issues.  Is it possible the #2,3 & 4 ram slots are suddenly faulty?  Or could something else be the issue.  Also I have water cooling and I'm unsure if perhaps the computer mght be overheating a little.  A lot of the trouble shooting I did previously is in the bsod forum.

 

Processor AMD FX-8350 Eight core

32 gb RAM A-Data (only 8 gb installed currently in slot 1 because it will freeze if anything is in the other slots)

Motherboard - Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 (Version FC)

3 TB Hard Drive

Windows 10 Pro Version 1709 OS Build 16299.125

 

If you need any other specs I will be happy to provide them.



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#2 mightywiz

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 05:58 PM

I would check your voltages if your power supply is going bad and your cpu - ram voltages are not correct you could see some weird issues.

 

if you have access to another power supply you could just swap them out and see if your problem goes away.



#3 ranchhand_

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 08:38 PM

 

when I put the ram into the other 3 slots I once again got freezing issues.

Since you tested all the RAM in slot #1 and they tested good, and evidently you have been using your computer for some time with no problems, I would suspect, in order:

> Power supply as Mightywiz said above;

> Motherboard...if you can, check that there are no direct shorts from motherboard bottom touching the metal case bottom. Also...check your motherboard capacitors for signs of failure. 


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#4 MysterioMask

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 04:28 AM

So I spent the last day and a half testing a ram stick I new to be good in all the slots one by one with just 1 stick with memtest86.  All went for 10 passes, and all slots came back with no errors.  Yet I am still having freezing issues in slots 2,3 & 4 but not in slot 1.  If I have it in slot 1 it still works perfectly good.    Although after the tests the tubing and radiator seemed very hot for the water cooling.

 

Is it possible that the slots read as fine but actually are bad, when its actually logged into windows?

 

How do I go about checking my voltages and making sure they are correct?  I don't think I have another large size power supply sitting around at the moment.

 

Also currently I don't see the board touching anything metal also I don't see any capacitors that look off but I will look more in depth tomorrow.

 

*Update* After around a half hour after posting this, I got my first computer freeze with 1 ram stick put in slot 1.  It hasn't frozen in slot 1 since I started troubleshooting.  

  When I restarted only about 2 min into logging into windows I got a bsod that said Unexpected Kernel mode trap , followed then by a system service exception bsod.  The temps seem to be around 50-55 c


Edited by MysterioMask, 04 January 2018 - 05:12 AM.


#5 ranchhand_

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 05:34 PM

 

Is it possible that the slots read as fine but actually are bad, when its actually logged into windows?

I doubt it; Windows is just running software that is totally dependent on the RAM being perfect. Windows, if corrupted, could crash the entire operating system, but it could not single out three RAM slots and only crash on those.

How do I go about checking my voltages and making sure they are correct?

Depending on your BIOS, you can enter the BIOS screen and (hopefully) it will register the voltages there.

Otherwise, you can use CPU ID or SPEEDFAN (both free).

When you have the time, you might consider getting a power supply tester. If you do much of this kind of thing, you can save hours of head-scratching.


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#6 MysterioMask

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 06:13 AM

Sorry for the late response.  Today the computer has been running fine with the ram in slot 1.  Also I am not sure what I'm looking for in voltages so I took a few screen shots of stuff in the bios of various things and one when I was in windows with CPUID.  

 

I might try and make it freeze tomorrow with CPUID open and then take a pic of it during a freeze.

 

Attached File  CPUID HW Monitor.jpg   158.71KB   0 downloadsAttached File  IMAG0364.jpg   89.66KB   0 downloadsAttached File  IMAG0365.jpg   96.22KB   0 downloadsAttached File  IMAG0366.jpg   98.66KB   0 downloadsAttached File  IMAG0367.jpg   93.64KB   0 downloadsAttached File  IMAG0368.jpg   96.33KB   0 downloadsAttached File  IMAG0369.jpg   94.07KB   0 downloadsAttached File  IMAG0370.jpg   111.37KB   0 downloads



#7 ranchhand_

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Posted 06 January 2018 - 04:22 PM

As far as I can see all your voltages are within normal parameters. Your 5V, 12V 3.3V are all normal. I am not sure what normal reads are on the others.

If I am correct, you ran all your memory sticks 1x1 in the #1 slot and they ran fine; soon as you used the other slots you crashed.  The only thing left is test the power supply. If the power supply tests as good, then it would appear that 3 of your RAM slots went bad on you. I had that happen to me when working on computers, it drove me crazy until I tested the slots as you did, and as long as I would use the good slot(s) everything was fine. Put one chip in the bad slot and BSOD.


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#8 sandman1374

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Posted 06 January 2018 - 09:19 PM

I'm curious, and just wanted to share in case you're not aware.

 

I see your system is overclocked (I do too).

I see a lot of settings still on "auto" and if i'm not mistaken you also have Turbo Boost enabled?

This may be where the issues start.

Are you using a utility to OC? Always OC from the Bios never a utility. If this OC was done using a utility it is most likely over volted and is definitely not optimized.

 

The SS above showing HWMonitor, are those temps on idle or under load?

The maximum CPU Core temp for stability reasons of an FX chip is 55c.

What I think I see is your CPU Socket temp (59c?) is already in need of active cooling. Very common for gigabyte mobos.

 

32GBs of Ram on FX /AM3+ is only supported up to 1333MHz iirc. Maybe higher depending on chip but only after stabilizing at 1333MHz.

All Dram specs should be manually entered into Bios, not left on "auto".

Using all four Dimm slots will require additional Dram Voltage and CPU/NB voltage to stabilize. 4 Dimms places a lot more load on the IMC inside the CPU.

 

The advertised Dram voltage is rated for Intel which uses less Dram voltage by nature.

It's very common on the AMD platform for an addition .05v to .1v Dram voltage to stabilize even for stock freq and timing.

If you add in the fact your CPU is OC'd to 4.0GHz this can also cause another need for additional Dram voltage.

 

 

Freezing is usually a sign of a lack of Dram voltage or CPU/NB voltage and sometimes a combination of the two.

If you've run this system this way (untested for stability) for a period of time you're probably dealing with corruption in the OS due to bad OC.

It can happen very quickly with a bad OC. Been there and done that.

There's always a chance of corrupting the Bios as well. I've also managed that one too so I do speak from experience.

 

Have you cleared the CMOS, undated Bios (if necessary), clear Bios again afterwards, and than re-tested using default settings?

I've seen many strange things change/happen while overclocking. Sometimes "auto" values are changed without you knowing it because it will always say "auto".

Only way to restore it may be to clear CMOS and Flash Bios. Than start over/try again with some possibly new knowledge.

 

If nothing else this may help rule out bad OC or corrupt Bios from the picture.


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#9 MysterioMask

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Posted 07 January 2018 - 06:00 AM

I tried to get a pic of it when it freezes during a scan but instead of freezing now it's just rebooting and then freezing on the bios splash screen.


As far as I can see all your voltages are within normal parameters. Your 5V, 12V 3.3V are all normal. I am not sure what normal reads are on the others.
If I am correct, you ran all your memory sticks 1x1 in the #1 slot and they ran fine; soon as you used the other slots you crashed.  The only thing left is test the power supply. If the power supply tests as good, then it would appear that 3 of your RAM slots went bad on you. I had that happen to me when working on computers, it drove me crazy until I tested the slots as you did, and as long as I would use the good slot(s) everything was fine. Put one chip in the bad slot and BSOD.


It was working great in slot 1 for the longest time then the other day it froze with it in slot 1. Now it seems to be better in slot 2 than slot 1.


I'm curious, and just wanted to share in case you're not aware.
 
I see your system is overclocked (I do too).
I see a lot of settings still on "auto" and if i'm not mistaken you also have Turbo Boost enabled?
This may be where the issues start.
Are you using a utility to OC? Always OC from the Bios never a utility. If this OC was done using a utility it is most likely over volted and is definitely not optimized.
 
The SS above showing HWMonitor, are those temps on idle or under load?
The maximum CPU Core temp for stability reasons of an FX chip is 55c.
What I think I see is your CPU Socket temp (59c?) is already in need of active cooling. Very common for gigabyte mobos.
 
32GBs of Ram on FX /AM3+ is only supported up to 1333MHz iirc. Maybe higher depending on chip but only after stabilizing at 1333MHz.
All Dram specs should be manually entered into Bios, not left on "auto".
Using all four Dimm slots will require additional Dram Voltage and CPU/NB voltage to stabilize. 4 Dimms places a lot more load on the IMC inside the CPU.
 
The advertised Dram voltage is rated for Intel which uses less Dram voltage by nature.
It's very common on the AMD platform for an addition .05v to .1v Dram voltage to stabilize even for stock freq and timing.
If you add in the fact your CPU is OC'd to 4.0GHz this can also cause another need for additional Dram voltage.
 
 
Freezing is usually a sign of a lack of Dram voltage or CPU/NB voltage and sometimes a combination of the two.
If you've run this system this way (untested for stability) for a period of time you're probably dealing with corruption in the OS due to bad OC.
It can happen very quickly with a bad OC. Been there and done that.
There's always a chance of corrupting the Bios as well. I've also managed that one too so I do speak from experience.
 
Have you cleared the CMOS, undated Bios (if necessary), clear Bios again afterwards, and than re-tested using default settings?
I've seen many strange things change/happen while overclocking. Sometimes "auto" values are changed without you knowing it because it will always say "auto".
Only way to restore it may be to clear CMOS and Flash Bios. Than start over/try again with some possibly new knowledge.
 
If nothing else this may help rule out bad OC or corrupt Bios from the picture.


It honestly shouldn't be overclocked at all. When I got it it already had a 4+ ghz processor on it and I chose the option to not have it overclocked at the time because I was worried about problems with overclocking. Since then. I have not changed any of the ram or processor or fans and water cooling. The only things I have changed in the computer since I originally got it a few years ago is I added some extra hard drive space and connected more computer monitors to the other outputs I had in the back. I did take out the gpu to get to a sata port to add a hard drive once though but I put it back.

Someone did suggest I update bios to the latest version so I did do that. But I did not take the battery out. But maybe that reset some stuff. I did recent tell it to reset to defaults though. Otherwise it shouldn't be overclocked to my knowledge.

Also I had ran fine with 4 sticks of ram for as long as I have had the computer up until this past year.

Also the operating system is freshly installed just a week or so ago on a brand new hard drive and it's still doing the same thing.

Finally I believe the temperatures are not under load when I took the screen shot. When I run some scans I can see it get nearly to 80 c at times in cpuid.

#10 ranchhand_

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Posted 07 January 2018 - 11:19 AM

Reset your BIOS as follows:

Power down and unplug the power cable from the wall socket. Press the power switch for 2 seconds (clears the capacitors). Open the case and remove the CMOS battery for about 10 minutes. It looks like a small, silver coin about the size of a nickel. Many computers also have a small jumper switch usually located close to the battery. Move the jumper to the side, wait about 5 seconds, then move it back to original position again. You can check your computer manual to find where this jumper is located. Then reinstall the CMOS battery again; make sure you get the polarity correct, if you put it in backwards the computer will do some really strange things, and possibly not boot.
Now try to boot.


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#11 MysterioMask

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Posted 09 January 2018 - 06:37 AM

Followed your instructions.  Couldn't find the jumper if there was one.  But reset the bios.  So far the computer has ran fine for some reason.  Tomorrow night I will try all the ram in all the slots and attempt to freeze it again.


Edited by hamluis, 12 January 2018 - 07:56 AM.


#12 ranchhand_

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Posted 09 January 2018 - 08:49 AM

Thanks for posting back; I hope the BIOS reset did it! Please let me know how it turns out; there are still some testing that can be done, but it's pretty involved. Let's hope you are good now.


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#13 MysterioMask

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Posted 10 January 2018 - 01:57 AM

So was working fine with 1 stick, then I added all sticks and was working good, then I did a windows update.  Once I logged back in it froze only a few minutes into it.   Then after a hard shut down.  It froze on the bios splash screen.   I'm posting the image I took of CPUID when it froze and also of it freezing on the splash.

 

Attached File  IMAG0382.jpg   217.02KB   0 downloadsAttached File  IMAG0383.jpg   37.71KB   0 downloads


Edited by hamluis, 12 January 2018 - 07:57 AM.


#14 MysterioMask

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Posted 11 January 2018 - 05:46 AM

I'm thinking its probably 1 or 3 things, bad motherboard.  its some sort of overheating problem even though ive seen it freeze when its fairly cool. (possible it could be cpu I guess too), or its a power supply problem.  Although the voltages seem fine from what has been said around here.   Personally I would say the psu is okay because wouldn't it cause it to restart or freeze when its running a memtest as well or am I wrong?

 

Also is there any tests I can do to see if I can pin point this a bit better, id rather have an idea of what might be the problem rather than randomly replacing parts and spending a bunch of money on stuff that might or might not solve the problem.  



#15 ranchhand_

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Posted 11 January 2018 - 05:47 PM

I reviewed all the posts, including those from the previous thread, and this seems to be the situation at this point:

 

 

Okay so here's what is going on.  I disconnected the storage drive and the older drive I had connected and replaced the main drive with a new drive and installed windows 10 on it. The install finished fine.  But almost 5 or so minutes into using it. I got a blue screen.

So....If you replaced your main Windows drive and reinstalled a fresh copy of W10 on it, right? If so, then seems like a virus is out of the question.  Please correct me if I am wrong, because I am going to dismiss virus infections as a cause if I understand correctly.
Make sure that you installed the motherboard drivers on the new Windows installation; that is important. Easy to forget sometimes.

Next: I am leery of these memory scans. Judging from the past posts, there have been some inconclusive results. Here's what I want you to do:

> Disconnect all drives, HDD, SSD. flash or backup drives including your main Windows drive.

>Remove all the memory chips, leave only one in the #1 slot (which seems to work best).

>Download and burn to a disk Memtest 86+

>Reboot with the CD in your drive; make sure that you set your BIOS to CD=First Boot Device, HDD=2nd Boot Device so it boots from the DVD player.

Again...be sure to test each stick singly one at a time. Do not run with multiple sticks installed. I have had the experience that Memtest skipped a bad stick when testing multiples and gave a "passed" when one was actually bad.

If the computer crashes running Memtest, try different slots. If they all crash, that actually tells us something important.

I do understand that you have run memory scans previously, but my method is a step-by-step process of elimination until we find the problem. Please stick with me until we finish.


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