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should I change my CPU cooler?


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#1 eliasgusta

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Posted 18 November 2017 - 02:30 PM

Posting my specs: (edited first post with relevant information)

 

CASE               Enermax Staray (no internal or external fans)

PSU                 Corsair CP-9020048, 600W, ATX 2.3

MOBO              Gigabyte Z77-D3H, socket 1155

CPU                 Intel Core i5 3570 ivy bridge socket 1155 LGA

RAM                 Dual Channel Corsair 8GB (2 x 4GB), DDR3, 1600MHz (CL9)

GPU                 Radeon R9 270x

 

running a high end game https://i.imgur.com/0HE5TcB.png

 

if you want to see just HWU without the game running check

https://i.imgur.com/XSCcybJ.png

 

using stock cooler, which one would be better that would fit in my case?


Edited by eliasgusta, 18 November 2017 - 08:50 PM.


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#2 PhillPower2

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Posted 18 November 2017 - 02:52 PM

Hello eliasgusta,

 

CASE                Enermax Staray

 

 

How many internal chassis fans do you have .

 

Can you post the brand and model name or number of the power supply (PSU).

 

I have the intel stock cooler which should be fine but I think I just need to re-apply thermal paste.

 

 

Will come back to the thermal compound application and for no just explain the following, thermal compound will not normally need to be removed and reapplied as long as the heatsink (HS) is left undisturbed and a single application will most often last the lifetime of the computer, this does assume that the thermal compound was correctly applied at the outset. 



#3 eliasgusta

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Posted 18 November 2017 - 03:58 PM

I have this computer for about 5 years now but i did take it in service once because of a corrupt bios setting which caused it not to boot

i think it was about 2 years ago and it was in service for about 1 week. it worked fine and still does I just think temps go a bit high

they may have taken down the CPU cooler (or heatskink as you say) and just slapped it back on 

to my knowledge if you do this, you must clean and re-apply the thermal paste which i doubt they did

 

i never really played high demanding games and with most of them my CPU temp was around 70 degrees give or take

on a few more demanding games as i said the temp can go around 95 even 100 degrees sometime which i find too high

edited my post with full specs. for now i am monitoring my cpu temp and will make sure it's under 80 until i fix it



#4 PhillPower2

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Posted 18 November 2017 - 04:26 PM

CASE                Enermax Staray (no internal or external fans)
PSU                  Corsair CP-9020048, 600W, ATX 2.3

 

 

Having no internal cooling fans at all is most unlikely and I suspect that there will be at least the one, for effective cooling you need a fan at the front of the case to draw in cool, clean air and one at the rear to expel (exhaust) the hot air from the inside of the chassis, this is often referred to as the pull/push method of cooling, the CPU cooling fan and the PSU cooling fans don`t really help get rid of the internal hot air without the front and rear fans and what effectively happens is that the hot air just gets circulated around inside of the case which keeps everything running hot.

 

The CX range of Corsair PSUs are only entry level and not for high end gaming rigs, your particular PSU when new only has a three year warranty so should have been replaced by now in any event.

 

 

I have this computer for about 5 years now but i did take it in service once because of a corrupt bios setting which caused it not to boot

i think it was about 2 years ago and it was in service for about 1 week. it worked fine and still does I just think temps go a bit high
they may have taken down the CPU cooler (or heatskink as you say) and just slapped it back on 

 

 

 

Not likely, the processor would have fried within no time, got to ask, why would you even suspect such a thing.

 

 

Please take expanded screenshots and only use the method below to attach them.

 

Download Speedfan from here and install it.  Once it's installed, run the program and post here the information it shows.  The information I want you to post is the stuff that is circled in the example picture I have attached.

If you are running on a vista machine, please go to where you installed the program and run the program as administrator.

 

speedfan.png

 (this is a screenshot from a vista machine)

 

Download then run HWMonitor and post a screenshot so that we have a comparison to the Speedfan results, details from here

 

To capture and post a screenshot;

Click on the ALT key + PRT SCR key..its on the top row..right hand side..now click on start...all programs...accessories...paint....left click in the white area ...press CTRL + V...click on file...click on save...save it to your desktop...name it something related to the screen your capturing... BE SURE TO SAVE IT AS A .JPG ...otherwise it may be to big to upload... Click on the More Reply Options tab then after typing in any response you have... click on Choose File...desktop...find the screenshot..select it and click on Attach This File...on the lower left...after it says upload successful...click on add reply like you normally would.

 

Screenshot instructions are provided to assist those that may read this topic but are not yet aware of the “how to”.



#5 eliasgusta

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Posted 18 November 2017 - 04:52 PM

wc6t8MP.png

 

 

"The CX range of Corsair PSUs are only entry level and not for high end gaming rigs, your particular PSU when new only has a three year warranty so should have been replaced by now in any event."

 

this confuses me a bit, i had quite a few PC's in so far from my childhood and never had PSU problems with any of them. out of 4 computers I only had problems with 1, fried CPU and MOBO died but it was in warranty and they were replaced. i also wouldn't consider my PC high end gaming rig either, it was decent 5 years ago when i got it and it still is now. probably won't change it for another 5 years at least.

 

edit: only running a few craps now, media player, chrome, winamp and an old game that doesn't use much


Edited by eliasgusta, 18 November 2017 - 04:56 PM.


#6 PhillPower2

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Posted 18 November 2017 - 05:00 PM

With the exception of the poor case cooling and PSU you have decent spec hardware and to both run and protect your CPU, MB, RAM and GPU you need a good brand adequately powered PSU and improved case cooling.

 

Post the requested screenshots for us.



#7 eliasgusta

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Posted 18 November 2017 - 05:04 PM

With the exception of the poor case cooling and PSU you have decent spec hardware and to both run and protect your CPU, MB, RAM and GPU you need a good brand adequately powered PSU and improved case cooling.

 

Post the requested screenshots for us.

 

edited, link was wrong first time

 

i wouldn't be able to afford a new PSU, maybe some case fans at best

low on cash, need upgrade RAM (sell my 2x4gb and get 2x8gb)


Edited by eliasgusta, 18 November 2017 - 05:08 PM.


#8 PhillPower2

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Posted 18 November 2017 - 05:16 PM

Can you run only HWMonitor again but this time take the screenshot/s and attach to your next reply, do both exactly as described in my reply #4, the way that you have done this there is a lot of information missing or partially hidden.

 

Edit: Added example HWMonitor screenshot.

Attached Files


Edited by PhillPower2, 18 November 2017 - 05:22 PM.


#9 eliasgusta

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Posted 18 November 2017 - 05:28 PM

0HE5TcB.png

 

this is more relevant in my opinion, picture taken while running a more demanding game 

temps from HWU, speedfan and coretemp all aligned so you can compare them easier

 

if you want to see just HWU (without the game running) check this https://i.imgur.com/XSCcybJ.png

appreciate the help but my only concern is CPU temp (the rest of them operate normally i think)


Edited by eliasgusta, 18 November 2017 - 05:33 PM.


#10 PhillPower2

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Posted 18 November 2017 - 05:39 PM

That`s better, thanks  :thumbup2:

 

Voltages are fine and the higher temps to be expected when playing a demanding game etc.

 

Would suggest fitting a fan to the front and rear of the case and making sure that you have neat and tidy internal cable management (if not done already) as previously explained this will get cool, clean air into the case and get rid of the hot air created by the CPU and GPU far more efficiently, I honestly thing that if there was a problem with the present thermal compound your idle temps would be much higher.

 

Got an early start so going offline now, will check back after work tomorrow some time.



#11 MadmanRB

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Posted 18 November 2017 - 08:58 PM

Go get some case fans, and if possible quite soon get a new PSU.

I know money is an issue but please replace the power supply.


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#12 cat1092

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Posted 19 November 2017 - 06:40 AM

 

 

   Enermax Staray (no internal or external fans)

 

Not a good idea to have no case fans with any build, there's many quality cases on Newegg, eBay & Amazon for around $50-60 (some less on promo) that includes at least one intake (most of mine two) & one exhaust, all 120mm fans. For any PC to remain cool, there must be a minimum of one exhaust & intake fan, if by chance a new case isn't in the budget, maybe a case mod can achieve the same result. Many has done this successfully, I forget where seen, there was once a site I visited that had blueprints for different sized fans. Even two 92mm fans are better than none, that's what's in my XPS 8700. Oddly, even though there's a place for the intake fan, one wasn't installed, so reused a 92mm CPU fan that was loud, using silicone washers to prevent vibration, installed & now can't hear, unless demand requires higher RPM. I use SpeedFan with this PC to control all fans, as Dell had it capped at just over 800 rpm. Had to use a PWM splitter leftover from one of my Noctua fans to install it, the only brand that I purchase. :)

 

My least expensive case at $49.99 shipped, a Rosewill Stryker M, has two 120mm intakes with blue neon lights, one exhaust, plus extra passive cooling with a screened top. looks fantastic in a darkened room & includes a plexiglass window to see the interior, although I turned the lighting effects off on the installed ASUS 970 Gaming/AURA MB. Also has a full modular EVGA G2 650W (Gold rated) PSU, was on promo on the Newegg site along with a $20 rebate, knocking the final price down to $69.99 shipped. The installed CPU is a AMD Phenom x4 965 (originally a FX-8350), moved the warmer running CPU to this MB because can handle the heat better than a mATX ASRock 970M Pro3 that the FX-8350 is running great on, inside of a slightly modded Dell Dimension 2400 case (can't see from the exterior), adding a 80mm Noctua PWM intake & 92mm exhaust fan from the stock FX-8350 CPU. The exhaust is connected via a PWM adapter to the CPU header. 

 

Many who has seen what was once a stock Dimension 2400 stated it's by far the fastest they've ever laid eyes on & was once running W10 until the Fall Creator's update which messed up the Start Menu (odd because I had ran all of the Previews successfully. I just say that I know how to tune a PC to milk every last drop of performance out of one. :P

 

As others has mentioned, a quality PSU is a must have, it's the most important component of any build, inferior or older units can take out the entire system when these blows, so the cost can easily be much less than what you may think. If possible, try saving $10-15/month, in a few months, will have plenty for a much better model, preferably Gold rated & Fully modular to help with cable management. Many PSU's that says 'modular' still has the main cable to the MB built in, I prefer those w/out any installed, much easier to work with. Plan the install, being sure to connect the cables in the back first, working your way to the front, and tuck any extra length out of the way as you go. You'll love the end result. 

 

If by chance you can't afford a new case, be looking on recycle days for those sitting on the curb, I've picked up a few this way & reused, still have one of the PC's to this day, although with a different MB, CPU & PSU. I reused the RAM, GPU & HDD's that were in the PC, removed one & now is another backup drive. Also, there's thrift stores that has computer cases at low prices, sometimes with fans & wiring harness already installed. You may be able to talk the asking price down some, especially at Goodwill & Hospice stores. :)

 

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Performing full disc images weekly and keeping important data off of the 'C' drive as generated can be the best defence against Malware/Ransomware attacks, as well as a wide range of other issues. 


#13 eliasgusta

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Posted 19 November 2017 - 07:50 AM

ok to summarize what I gathered so far

 

-new PSU (would it also help with reducing CPU temps?). still unsure as to why i would replace mine

 

-adding some case fans at least 2 - main concern with this, it won't reduce heat by a lot

(i did some googling and case fans don't usually reduce temps by much)

 

-new CPU cooler. this could be the biggest factor, i've seen cheap ones that can go up to 20 degrees cooler than stock ones

so my question is, which model should I buy? one that is effective and that fits my case and specs. thanks to all for your input!



#14 QQQQ

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Posted 19 November 2017 - 10:14 AM

If the Intel stock cooler is the small about 1 inch high round one like mine then get a better one for sure. I got the Noctua NH-U14S earlier this week and my Intel I5-4690K dropped 9 degrees idle. My "load" temps (by load I means playing a game) went down 51 degrees from 176 to 125 and I do not hear the fans ramping up anymore. The Noctua is a beast and barely clears my sidecover so it may be too big for your case, mine is a full tower. I knew I should have gotten a better cooler when I built this rig especially since I got the K Intel chip. I always thought Intel coolers were sufficient but these newer small ones just can't handle it it in my opinion.



#15 MadmanRB

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Posted 19 November 2017 - 10:27 AM

ok to summarize what I gathered so far

 

-new PSU (would it also help with reducing CPU temps?). still unsure as to why i would replace mine

 

-adding some case fans at least 2 - main concern with this, it won't reduce heat by a lot

(i did some googling and case fans don't usually reduce temps by much)

 

-new CPU cooler. this could be the biggest factor, i've seen cheap ones that can go up to 20 degrees cooler than stock ones

so my question is, which model should I buy? one that is effective and that fits my case and specs. thanks to all for your input!

 

Airflow is very important to a computers operation, adding case fans isnt just about dropping temps a few degrees but also ensuring that cool air gets into the case and hot air gets out.

 

A new CPU cooler alone will do okay but still you need airflow going in and out of the case, if you want your machine to overheat to save a buck well thats up to you.

 

To be honest I say if you are really worried about money i would go get fans first, here is a cheap pack of 4 of them:

 

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103052&cm_re=case_fans-_-35-103-052-_-Product

Sticking with the stock cooler will be fine if you do this, i mean its a non overclocking core i5 so no need to get the CPU cooler if you get case fans.

I mean these are not the best fans but they will do the job, again the goal is to keep the machine cool not just the CPU.

Hardf drive make heat as do the RAM kits and your motherboard, the build up of heat can kill a computer.

 

As for the power supply, the reason why we suggest changing it is that line of corsair PSU's have been known not to be the best, changing it wont fix your temps but it will help give you a better lifespan of your machine.


Edited by MadmanRB, 19 November 2017 - 10:28 AM.

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