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A discussion Topic-PC Cleaning.


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28 replies to this topic

#1 bumping

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Posted 22 February 2017 - 07:57 AM

Thank Ya'll for the Welcoming.

 

I wanted to share a idea, that may save some of you money.

 

Those cans of compressed air, $3 to $7 each.

I have seen some places listing them over $10!

WHAT A BLATANT RIP OFF!

 

The solution: "pancake compressor" <<< keyword search

Prices (& quality) range anywhere from $50 to $200

 

They are mostly used by hobbist, for things like, air brushing/artwork, stabling/bradding, & yes air blowing.

Has other uses as well.

 

Just do not expect to run air wrenches and daily air up flat tires. ... you'll soon end back up, giving $5 can for air.

(although they do make a gas engine version that can .. dependably ( to a degree). You'll pay dearly)


Edited by bumping, 22 February 2017 - 08:04 AM.
moved from Linux & Unix


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#2 Al1000

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Posted 22 February 2017 - 10:32 AM

Personally I prefer sucking to blowing, so I use one of these (with an appropriate attachment):

Henry.jpg

#3 bumping

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Posted 22 February 2017 - 11:45 AM

Any family relation to the robot, from "Lost in Space"?

 

 

Meant in fun...

you profile pic, the vaccum pic.

 

I can just see it.

the fearless leader

the vac bot, like that lil italian tire changing import job, off the kids show, "Cars.

Then the Lost in space bot, arms frailing about, "danger! danger!

 

all mingling and rangling around a PC case, amidst a dust strom.

 

hahahha

 

 

 

I double duty the air compressor from my home water well.

When I installed it, I set it up with  quick connect coupling for air hose.

 

125 PSI clears all the lil nooks and crannies, pretty well.

 

None those lil dust stringers hanging on any of the solder points, that the low pressure $5 cans leave.


Edited by bumping, 22 February 2017 - 11:55 AM.


#4 The-Toolman

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Posted 22 February 2017 - 11:54 AM

Back in my early days of vacuum tube and transistor television repair the first thing done with a television chassis was to give it a good dusting with an air hose.

 

I do the same thing with desktop and laptop computers.

 

@Al1000

Cute little vacuum cleaner you have there.


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#5 pcpunk

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Posted 22 February 2017 - 12:03 PM

I suppose in a pinch, or even for most, just an air container with compressed air would be good.  No electric or noise at all needed, and some kind of moisture filter one would be all set, just need a place to fill it up.


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#6 Al1000

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Posted 22 February 2017 - 12:04 PM

@Al1000
Cute little vacuum cleaner you have there.


Do you like his sister too? :)

00004577.jpg

Edited by Al1000, 22 February 2017 - 12:20 PM.


#7 The-Toolman

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Posted 22 February 2017 - 12:19 PM

 

@Al1000
Cute little vacuum cleaner you have there.


Do you like his sister too? :)

00004577.jpg

 

:thumbsup:


Under certain circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.

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#8 bumping

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Posted 22 February 2017 - 12:54 PM

any compressed air, whether in a retail can, 1 those industrial metal bottles, or a air compressor, CAN build up water

 

it comes from condensatoin... temp difference. Just like  a cold drink glass sweats

Just happens easier & more, when under pressure

 

Those electric pancake compressors, really aren't that loud.

and, it's for a short while anyway.

 

I suppose, could alternatively, work all day with a feather duster.

 

$1.99 and never have to spend again .. and @ $125 labor.



#9 The-Toolman

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Posted 22 February 2017 - 01:20 PM

any compressed air, whether in a retail can, 1 those industrial metal bottles, or a air compressor, CAN build up water

 

it comes from condensatoin... temp difference.

I installed a moisture trap / filter which removes 99% of condensation.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-Particulate-filter-water-trap-seperator-moisture-Compressed-Air-Compressor-/262348221941?hash=item3d152c2df5:g:p6AAAOSwAuNW8bVU


Edited by The-Toolman, 22 February 2017 - 01:22 PM.

Under certain circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.

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Inspiration can be found in a pile of junk. Sometimes, you can put it together with a good imagination and invent something.

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#10 Animal

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Posted 22 February 2017 - 02:28 PM

There is also: https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-Multi-Use-Electric-Computer-Blower/dp/B00V8S9XU6

It comes in three colors even.

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#11 Rocky Bennett

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Posted 22 February 2017 - 04:16 PM

I buy my canned air at Walmart and I get a 3 pack for about $4.99, a years worth to say the least.


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#12 cat1092

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Posted 22 February 2017 - 09:35 PM

I buy my canned air at Walmart and I get a 3 pack for about $4.99, a years worth to say the least.

 

Rocky, your local Walmart must be a lot less costly than mine, I thought I got a good deal for 4 cans (one free) at $11.88. A single can is almost the price for the three you stated above. 

 

G2wH1yC.jpg

 

Those 4 cans will last 4-6 months, because when I get down to two, will purchase 4 more. :P

 

I go through so many due to working on other's computers, plus am always upgrading something in one or more of mine, even if newer SATA-3 cables. IMO, it's hogwash that computers that shipped with SATA-1 HDD's, that the old OEM cables are just as capable of high performance SATA-3 usage. Every now & then will acquire an older PC or notebook, if either, will install a SSD (& fresh install the OS). Ran tests with the old & new cables, the new always produces faster benchmarks. :thumbsup:

 

Just like HDMI, some articles insists there's 'no difference' between a cable designed for HDMI (1.3 spec) and 2.0b. These folks must think we all live within a cave. Same with Displayport cables, only certified DP 1.2 cables (Accell being one of the leaders) can push the difference in bandwidth. 

 

OK, need to get back on track here, though was emphasizing a point. Whenever I open one of my computers, will always use that opportunity to blow out the case, as all electronics are a magnet for dust, not just computers, think of what the inside of some early Smart TV's looks like by now. And others that's ran for 10 years or longer & never opened. Even a PC monitor attracts dust, can be seen in the grooves that allows for cooling. 

 

No matter how it's done, as long as it's not a setup that blows moisture in, and can be adjusted to a low flow rate, it's best to dust a computer no less than once per year, even if in what one feels to be a 'clean' environment. This is exactly why refurbished HDD's (such as 'White Label' found on eBay) aren't worth fooling with, I ordered one as a replacement for an IDE HDD & performed worse than the 10 year old one. :P

 

This is because only the OEM's has the resources to properly recertify HDD's, the room has to be 25x cleaner than a surgical room. Not a speck of dust, moisture, anything can land on the heads during reassembly, otherwise it's going to be returned again within days to 2-3 months at best, any contamination will cause the drive to fail. It can't be done in a garage or basement & be expected to last any amount of time.

 

Note that while blowing air throughout the computer, especially with notebooks, be sure to secure the fan to prevent free spinning, this can damage the bearings of the fan. Also, it's only meant to be spinning in a certain direction. If nothing else, a broom straw through the fan blades through (usually) a hole in the bottom & taped on the exterior, will hold it in place. It's good to use a Q-Tip to gently clean the fan blades prior to blowing out. On a desktop, it's much easier to clean the blades, though some CPU fans can also be small. I'll blow out my heatsinks every 6 months, whether or not it's needed, and reinstall thermal paste every couple of years, even on a GPU, the pastes used on these are often gobbed on (way too much), only a half of a rice grain or Arctic Silver 5 (aka 'AC5') are needed on many GPU's. I just cleaned up one 2 days ago that was 4 years old, while the paste was still very soft, it was enough to use for at least 3 more cards, if using AC5 (after blowing out the card really well), will use the 'half rice grain' method, then use a plastic tool to spread it into a light glaze. 

 

Then run a few 'burn in' or 'torture' tests to help it cure faster, after that, normal usage will finish the job. 

 

Animal, I've placed that item on my Amazon wish list, the device will pay for itself over & over again! :)

 

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#13 mjd420nova

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Posted 23 February 2017 - 01:42 PM

The things that no one considers when using compress air is to keep the nozzle tube from touching any components nor maintain a blast long enough to get the frozen liquid up the nozzle and spray frost on the chips.  Freezing is not good.  Air compressors are great for blowing air filled with water particles.  Nothing like wetting down a dirty board and making mud pies.  That would require a major cleaning.  Vacuums are good if the nozzle tip is grounded, as the air passing through will induce electron collection and ESD is a serious hazard.  Wrapping the tip with foil and grounding works well.  I use an acid brush cut to half inch bristle and vacuum.  Serious cleaning begins wit degreaser, mild soap and acid brush, clear water, and electronic non-residue cleaner, wash the entire board.  That will get coffee, tea, soda, milk etc cleaned but takes loads of time and patience.



#14 DodoIso

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Posted 23 February 2017 - 02:11 PM

I never thought that this topic would make me reflect on what I actually do... :lol: Well! I do both! :hysterical: But I'm more on Al side.

 

Personally I prefer sucking to blowing

 

For a little dust, I will usually blow it off.  This action is often quickly followed by some coughs.  You know, there's an art to blowing.  You have direct the dust to another area because, let's face it, it won't disappear.  That why I much prefer the sucking alternative.  You have to be very careful to prevent static charges, but I've used a shop-vac deep inside a pc.

 
 PS: But do as mjd420nova says.  It's best practice!

Edited by DodoIso, 23 February 2017 - 02:20 PM.


#15 The-Toolman

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Posted 23 February 2017 - 02:31 PM

I remove all case covers / escutcheons / DVD Drives etc to where every place where dust can hide is accessible.

 

From that point on I give it a thorough dusting with multiple short blasts of air from my air compressor.

 

As for locking of fan blades one can look at the pitch of the fan blades and determine the direction if that really matters and in my experience I have not really found that it does.

 

What really matters is keeping the air nozzle away from the fan blade which is being cleaned so as not to break off any of the blades on the fan blade. This is where locking down the fan blade would have an advantage.

 

This is not meant to be any set standard if there really is any set standard for cleaning Heat Sink Fans.


Edited by The-Toolman, 23 February 2017 - 02:35 PM.

Under certain circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.

(Mark Twain)

 

Inspiration can be found in a pile of junk. Sometimes, you can put it together with a good imagination and invent something.

(Thomas Edison)





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