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How to put away breadboard?


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#1 MajesticFailure

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 08:16 PM

Hi,

 

How do l pack away my breadboarded motherboard?

 

My problem is:

 

- I don't want sunlight to fall on the mobo, l'm told it can be harmful. So, l can't leave the breadboarded setup on my table indefinitely.

- I can detach the GPU and RAM, but l'm really reluctant to remove the CPU cooling tower, that is a real pain to remove and add again.

- I have ongoing POST issues, see entry 13-15 here http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/t/613855/expensive-new-build-no-signal-to-monitor/?p=4007634

- I don't believe the CPU is the problem, nor the motherboard itself (the mobo is a fresh replacement), nor the PSU.

 

 

 

My proposed solutions:

 

- I'm considering just placing the entire thing inside the PC case, without screwing it down. BUT: will that cause problems?

- Should l just go ahead and screw the whole thing in, all things considered?

 

 

 

Any suggestions? It sounds silly, but really it's a massive issue for me, as l don't want to be clearing yet more thermal paste off CPU and cooler, and screwing the cooler in is a real task in itself, the most challenging part of PC assembly if you ask me.

 

 

 



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#2 QQQQ

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Posted 25 May 2016 - 02:11 PM

Unless your pc case is plastic inside do not just place the motherboard in there! The bottom of your motherboard has a lot of electrical contacts on it and placing it on a metal surface would short all of them together. When you are having trouble with a new build we suggest "breadboarding" . This eliminates the possibility of a metal standoff causing some sort of short, it is pretty easy to put a standoff (which are usually metal) in the wrong position where the motherboard is supposed to be mounted.

Have you tried just connecting only the basic required items?  Power supply 24 pin to mobo (short for motherboard), 8 pin power connector to mobo, cpu installed with heat sink installed and no ram at all. The fan for your cpu heatsink should also be connected. When powered on it should beep 3 times due to not having any ram plugged in. If it does beep then add 1 stick of ram and try again.

If it doesn't beep without ram installed then your mobo or cpu is bad.



#3 QQQQ

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Posted 25 May 2016 - 02:20 PM

I see your mobo doesn't have integrated video so you will need to plug in your video card. Also make sure to connect the 6 pin power cable from the powersupply to the video card. If no video card is plugged in the pc should gives 8 beeps at power on if I remember right.



#4 QQQQ

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Posted 25 May 2016 - 02:24 PM

On your heatsink look here at the reviews http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6J332N5915

One person stated that it is easier to install if you pop off the fans first, then pop them back in after. Another review says to be careful with installing it as it could brick your mobo, he says it is difficult to install and he messed up his mobo by doing so.



#5 QQQQ

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Posted 25 May 2016 - 02:27 PM

You posted this: The DVDRW is connected to the USB 3.0 header on the mobo.

But you also posted it is a SATA DVDRW, I am guessing you made a mistake here, I don't know how anyone could even get the cable to connect but I have seen some

really crazy things before!



#6 MajesticFailure

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Posted 25 May 2016 - 04:56 PM

Unless your pc case is plastic inside do not just place the motherboard in there! The bottom of your motherboard has a lot of electrical contacts on it and placing it on a metal surface would short all of them together. When you are having trouble with a new build we suggest "breadboarding" . This eliminates the possibility of a metal standoff causing some sort of short, it is pretty easy to put a standoff (which are usually metal) in the wrong position where the motherboard is supposed to be mounted.

Have you tried just connecting only the basic required items?  Power supply 24 pin to mobo (short for motherboard), 8 pin power connector to mobo, cpu installed with heat sink installed and no ram at all. The fan for your cpu heatsink should also be connected. When powered on it should beep 3 times due to not having any ram plugged in. If it does beep then add 1 stick of ram and try again.

If it doesn't beep without ram installed then your mobo or cpu is bad.

 

Hi there. As per the other forum post that l linked to, l breadboarded with mobo, cpu, cooler, cooler fan, GPU, RAM, but i removed GPU and had 0 RAM, 1 RAM stick, 2 RAM sticks then all 4 RAM sticks. I got the 3 long beeps until l stuck all 4 RAM sticks in. Feel free to comment on that thread.

 

My case = Corsair CC-9011075-WW Carbide Series 100R Windowed Mid-Tower ATX Computer Case - Black. It has little bumbs on the dark side of the case, each bump crested with a hole. I believe these are the "standoffs", into which the motherboard is screwed.

 

Honestly l don't know why they don't just make all cases plastic, if shorting is such an issue?

 

 

 

 

I see your mobo doesn't have integrated video so you will need to plug in your video card. Also make sure to connect the 6 pin power cable from the powersupply to the video card. If no video card is plugged in the pc should gives 8 beeps at power on if I remember right.

 

Yep l did all that :)

 

 

 

On your heatsink look here at the reviews http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6J332N5915

One person stated that it is easier to install if you pop off the fans first, then pop them back in after. Another review says to be careful with installing it as it could brick your mobo, he says it is difficult to install and he messed up his mobo by doing so.

 

Damn. What l don't get is how on earth he sussed out the problem?

 

My cooler came with a CPU backplate, but l don't use it, because according to the instructions, there is no requirement for it with my LGA 2011-3 socket?

 

If l shorted the mobo, surely l wouldn't get consisted beep behaviour, and then zero beeps when all 4 RAM sticks have been put in?

 

 

 

 

You posted this: The DVDRW is connected to the USB 3.0 header on the mobo.

But you also posted it is a SATA DVDRW, I am guessing you made a mistake here, I don't know how anyone could even get the cable to connect but I have seen some

really crazy things before!

 

Oh no that was a mistake. The front panel features come out in 2 sets, Set 1 = lots of small leads for Power Switch, HDD LED, etc. Set 2 = the big 20-pin USB 3.0 cable. I believe both need to go into the mobo.

 

I mistakenly wrote that it was the DVDRW that the 20-pin cable was coming out of, but it was actually the section just above it, the front panel features.

 

 

 

 

Anyway, l've now put the breadboard away by inserting it into the case.

 

It was very risky, and to avoid dropping the mobo into the case, i had to, at times, hold the mobo at least partly by the CPU cooler.

 

When l connected everything up, the computer would not even power up. I changed power lead, still same problem. I then realised l had the computer on its side and l was pressing the Restart button instead of Power.

 

So anyway, back to the same issue as stated in the other thread, linked to in the OP: PC powers up, but no video output. I've ordered a cheap video card, hopefully it will arrive soon.


 


(so that l can test to see if the replacement GPU works)



#7 QQQQ

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Posted 26 May 2016 - 09:26 AM

It's difficult to see the bumps with holes you are referring to but they don't appear to be standoffs. Did you screw the mobo directly to these bumps? I am guessing this is where you screw in the standoffs where needed, did you receive the accessories which should include some standoffs, they are usually brass or gold colored? You screw them down into the little bumps and they are threaded at the top so that you can then place your mobo in and then put the screws in and tighten down slightly past finger tight, Don't over tighten but don't leave it too loose either. I also use the cpu heatsink very carefully to help support the mobo as you place it into the case.

If you aren't using the backplate for your cooler does your mobo have threads where it screws in, I can't tell from the pictures?



#8 MajesticFailure

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Posted 26 May 2016 - 06:53 PM

Hi mate, yes, l screwed directly into the bumps. I hope l did the right thing.

 

I did what this guy did:

 
His case was called Bit Phoenix Ghost? However, it strongly resembles the Corsair Carbide case that l use. You can see the bumps on his case. He screwed the board directly onto the bumps.
 
Re: the CPU tray vs. cooler, l just screwed the cooler in as per the hieroglyphs on the mystical scripture that came with the Cooler Master Hyper 212X cooler. There was no provision for screwing in a cooler for the LGA 2011-3 socket. Seen from the reverse site, l just see a smooth square metal plate with 4 small circles at each corner. The circles are not holes, they are just circles, they are level with the rest of the plate. I *believe* l did things right at least with the backplate. The arcane book of hocus pocus can be downloaded here: http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cpu-air-cooler/hyper-212x/
 
it is dryly referred to as "Hyper 212x Manual". Thing is, the download version is actually quite tidy. What i got was a long linear strip of paper printed on both sides, with instructions for different CPU sockets mixed up together, not segregated into types, one type after another. The instructions for my socket were printed on both sides and arrrgh never mind, the download version's much more clear. I think l acted correctly as per the manual.
 
My mobo screws into the bumps on the case. The CPU cooler screws into holes on the CPU tray of the mobo, except l use little standoffs on the CPU tray, so that the CPU cooler can actually screw in.
 
 
 
Let me know what you think. I think l have done things correctly, l think those bumps are the actual standoffs. This is my first ever build from scratch and l stupidly chose a project that l actually needed to be done, and not just that, l needed it pronto, and not just that, l used expensive parts. Argh! How dumb is that. Message to all first-timers: if it's important and time critical, and hi-spec, then buy a Zoostorm or some other cheap brand and make it as close to your requirement as possible, that way you only need to change 1 or 2 things and the PC at least works to begin with.


#9 QQQQ

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Posted 27 May 2016 - 09:05 AM

Okay sounds good did you install the backplate/I/O shield and if so does it fit pretty good or did you have to tweak a lot to get it to fit? The reason I am asking is they are usually metal and can have grounding flanges that can get bent when installing and can cause shorts.

Have you tried powering it on to see what happens since you installed it into the case?



#10 MajesticFailure

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Posted 27 May 2016 - 12:19 PM

Hi there, there was no backplate. Apparently the X99 ATX mobo requires no backplate?

 

As for the CPU backplate, no, l didn't fit it, because seen from reverse, there appears to already be a smooth metal plate there. Plus the Necronomicon scroll aka the long double sided strip of paper with jumbled up instructions for different sockets, that came with the cooler, doesn't appear to recommend fitting a backplate to the CPU for the LGA 2011-3 socket. In fact l'm not even sure it's possible.

 

I refer you to the download page for the manual (the download version is well organised compared to the physical manual l got): http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cpu-air-cooler/hyper-212x/

 

 

As for powering it on now, yes, it starts up. There is no POST beep. This could mean either a successful POST, or a bad CPU or RAM not recognised. However, there were 3 beeps when l had 0, 1 and 2 pieces of RAM sticks in, but since l put the full complement in, no more beeps. I would therefore guess it's either a successful POST or bad CPU. If it's a successful POST, there could be an internal issue with the GPU that passes all tests, or ... it's the CPU.

 

I have a creeping feeling it's the CPU. Cheap (relatively) GPU on its way, will test it when it arrives. About 14 days ago, l tested with a different GPU at a computer shop, and there was still no signal, which indicates a CPU error in the present context. However, back then, there may well have also been a mobo issue, but now, l have a fresh replacement mobo. So, l feel l should quickly test with a cheap GPU, before pointing the blame at the CPU.

 

I reckon it's the CPU though.

 

Please could we continue this here: http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/t/613855/expensive-new-build-no-signal-to-monitor/page-2#entry4008127

 

^^^^ i feel our conversation (if you have any more advice to give) will be in proper context here ^^^^






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