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Switched CPU Cooler - Now massive overheat

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#1 yoadknux


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Posted 05 April 2016 - 04:04 PM

Hello everyone, I'm new here.


I've attempted some sort of "revival" of my 7 years old gaming PC. As part of the revival I've taken out the stock cooler of the CPU (Q6600 G0). The pins were in a pretty bad shape and broke as I attempted to insert the cooler back. 

This made me buy a new CPU cooler, the "Arctic alpine 11 pro rev.2" to replace the stock cooler. However, after following the installation, when I booted up my PC it shut down after a few minutes. I've checked the CPU temperature at the BIOS at it was sky high (70-80c with pretty much no load).

This made me conclude that I've done something wrong during the cooling replacement process. Here's what I've done:

1. Removed the old CPU Cooler, and cleaned most of the old thermal paste with a microfiber cloth (Haven't used any solvents).

2. Installed the backplate of the cooler as instructed. Didn't go very smoothly, but after attempting it a few times I've gotten better at it. The result is that the pins are all in place and the cooler frame is also in place.

3. Screwed the fan and the heat sink (one piece) into the backplate.

4. Connected the CPU fan to the motherboard. 


It should be noted that the cooler is extremely close to an heatpipe which sits on the motherboard. My motherboard is Abit IP35-Pro, if you look at it you will see that the CPU is in the vicinity of two heat sinks. I'm pretty sure the backplate of the CPU cooler comes in contact with the motherboard heat sink. Maybe it pushes it out of the way? Could this be the problem?

Attempted to re-install it a few times, but no cigar. 


Would love some help and suggestions.


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#2 bc0306


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Posted 05 April 2016 - 06:22 PM

i have a 9 year old cyrberpower pc for gaming and hasnt failed, by revival do you mean that it doesnt work?, if it doesn't why did it failed? we need to know whats working and whats not,


I have some questions:

1.did you apply new thermal paste to the cpu? if yes 

2.is your psu is failing? if it is then it can overload the cpu and cause MASSIVE HEAT

3.open the cpu socket and take out the cpu then inspect the pins to make sure nothings missaligned 

4.try a more slim cpu cooler like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-Fan-CPU-Cooler-Heatsink-quiet-for-Intel-LGA775-1156-1155-AMD-AM2-AM2-AM3-/401045493540?hash=item5d602c9724:g:9TAAAOSw3ydVp1~1

or this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-Fan-CPU-Quiet-Cooler-Heatsink-for-Intel-LGA775-Core-2-DUO-1156-AMD-AM2-/131567215506?hash=item1ea2046392:g:cjsAAOSw3ydVuYrH


post back results

Don't even think about it if your not sure

#3 jonuk76


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Posted 06 April 2016 - 03:12 PM

It sounds like the CPU cooler isn't making good contact with the processor.  If there was good contact, when you remove the cooler there should be just a very thin layer of paste left spread across the surface of the CPU.  If there's lots of it on the CPU it's a sign that the cooler hasn't made good contact, because if it did, it would force out the thermal paste


It's best to use a solvent (e.g. isopropyl alcohol) to clean off old thermal compound, but it shouldn't make that much difference if you just wiped it off.


By the way, as far as I can see from the instructions, there is no backplate on this cooler.  A backplate is actually fitted underneath the motherboard, and is needed on most big tower coolers etc.  Yours looks like something similar to the Arctic Freezer 7 which uses a plastic base secured by push pins, which the cooler screws on to.   No plate on the underside of the motherboard needed.


From pictures I can see of the IP35, I can't see any of the standard heatsinks causing a problem with a relatively small CPU cooler.  They might with a larger tower cooler. as they look quite tall.  Just make sure that the plastic base is properly secured to the motherboard and that the push pin holders are fully pushed through, before the pins are inserted, so the base cannot move.


#4 Sneakycyber


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Posted 06 April 2016 - 09:52 PM

As posted above if you didn't apply new thermal paste then that's the issue. If you did use thermal past you may have used too much. It only takes a very small amount. For example Arctic Silver 5 only requires a dot about the size of an uncooked grain of rice.

Chad Mockensturm 

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#5 yoadknux

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Posted 07 April 2016 - 01:04 AM

Hello everyone,


Thank you for your comments. Allow me to respond to your suggestions:


1. The problem has only begun when I took out my previous stock cooler and installed a different brand (Arctic Alpine 11 Pro Rev 2).

2. I wiped the previous thermal paste off, though I haven't used any solvents. It seemed to come off. 

3. The cooler has pre-applied thermal paste, I've checked and it really is there.

4. While attempting to install it, I've noticed that the mount of the heat sink (The "table" that connects to the motherboard with 4 pins) makes contact with the heat sink of the north bridge. My inital thought was that it could interfere with the contact of the cooler with the cpu, because it may be pushing it aside.

5. I was able to install it regardless, but temp's were sky high, 70-80 celsius, so I shut it down, attempted to re-install it several times, and the situation remained the same.

6. Tried a different CPU Cooler, but it didn't quite fit either - Again, makes contact with the heat sink. :( The temperatures were better, the computer can at least boot, but still, temperatures are too high, and much higher than the temp's of the stock cooler.


The only thing I think I can try now is to re-install the stock cooler. If that solves it, then the problem is that the CPU cooler doesn't make good contact with the CPU. 

#6 DavisMcCarn


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Posted 07 April 2016 - 10:59 AM

ABIT got a lot of complaints and criticism for the heatsinks on the system board being too close and causing exactly what you are experiencing.  If you feel the old heatsink is too damaged, get another LGA775 intel cooler and be done with it:

Computer dinosaur, servicing PC's since 1976

#7 yoadknux

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Posted 08 April 2016 - 12:23 AM

DavisMcCarn Is on point here. The position of both heatsinks interfere with CPU coolers that extend beyond the area of the 4-pin, which means that the only fan that can safely fit is the stock one. I've tried both the Arctic fan I mentioned earlier as well as Zalman cnps5x. The arctic fan collides with the north bridge, the Zalman one collides with the South bridge...


Anyway, I consulted the electrical engineer in my lab, and he told me that the bending or trimming the external parts of the heat sink wouldn't affect the cooling, so I had modified about 4 pins. The cooler now sits properly (as intended), makes good contact and reaches great idle/load temps.


Problem solved! Thanks everyone!

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