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Can't Turn on My PC- Red Power Light Appearing


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#1 ifoundahomelessman

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Posted 09 January 2016 - 09:25 AM

So I'm pretty sure I'm already at the end of my build-all there needs is a little more cable management. But before finishing, I wanted to make sure my tower turned on, so I connected my power supply and my monitor, ect. Except when I pressed the power button, nothing turned on except a red light next to the power button. What does this mean? I did an outside build, so everything is functioning at a basic level. Also, this happened before when I tried booting it on, but the red light was dimmer and it turns out I plugged the front system panels in wrong, but now I'm sure it's in right. Also I bent one of my 24-pin main power supply connector, but I bent it back and it seems fine.

Parts : GIGABYTE Radeon R9 380X DirectX 12 GV-R938XG1 GAMING-4GD 4GB 256-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 ATX Video Card

Intel Core i5-4590 Haswell Processor 3.3GHz 5.0GT/s 6MB LGA 1150 CPU, Retail

ASRock H97M PRO4 mATX DDR3 1333 LGA 1150 Motherboard

Team Elite Plus 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model TPD38G1600C11DC01

Seagate ST1000DM003 Barracuda 1TB 3.5" SATA3 Desktop Hard Drive

Cooler Master HAF 912 - Mid Tower Computer Case with High Airflow, Supporting up to Six 120mm Fans and USB 3.0

CORSAIR CX series CX600M 600W ATX12V v2.3 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC CP-9020060-NA Power Supply

 

Also here's some pictures of it

Attached Files


Edited by ifoundahomelessman, 09 January 2016 - 09:30 AM.


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#2 dc3

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Posted 09 January 2016 - 10:10 AM

What does the manual for the case have to say about the display regarding the LED functions?


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#3 Demonslay335

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Posted 09 January 2016 - 11:10 AM

I would try a power discharge first. Unplug the AC power, press the power button 10 times, then hold it for 10 seconds on the last press. Flushes any "dirty" power. On the next attempt to power up, pay close attention to the CPU fan. If it twitches and doesn't fully spin, we can troubleshoot off of that.

One quick gotcha is make sure you are plugging the actual P8 into the CPU power, and not a PCI-E rail! Had a noobie tech do that the other week to 10 new computers in a row...

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#4 dc3

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Posted 10 January 2016 - 09:40 AM

1.  I would try a power discharge first. Unplug the AC power, press the power button 10 times, then hold it for 10 seconds on the last press. Flushes any "dirty" power. On the next attempt to power up, pay close attention to the CPU fan. If it twitches and doesn't fully spin, we can troubleshoot off of that.

2.  One quick gotcha is make sure you are plugging the actual P8 into the CPU power, and not a PCI-E rail! Had a noobie tech do that the other week to 10 new computers in a row...

1.  What you are describing is discharging the trace amount of electricity in the capacitors in the motherboard and PSU.  You don't repeatedly push the power switch.  You first unplug the power cord from the wall receptacle with the computer shut down, the you press the power button and hold it down for 20 to 30 seconds.  Dirty power originates in the AC power transmission.  One of the functions of the PSU in a computer is to suppress this dirty power.  This rarely effects the computer.  In this instance I doubt very much there is any chance that this is part of the problem, I discharging the capacitors in the manner you are suggesting is unrealistic.

 

2.  The P8 and P9 power connectors are 12V DC connectors that take their power from the 12V rail in the PSU.  There is no such thing as PCI-E rail, and even if one did exist it would have nothing to do with either of these connectors.  Just for the record, the PCI-E expansion slot depends on a Bus to transmit it data and is rated in its speed to do this.


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#5 Demonslay335

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Posted 10 January 2016 - 01:02 PM


1.  I would try a power discharge first. Unplug the AC power, press the power button 10 times, then hold it for 10 seconds on the last press. Flushes any "dirty" power. On the next attempt to power up, pay close attention to the CPU fan. If it twitches and doesn't fully spin, we can troubleshoot off of that.

2.  One quick gotcha is make sure you are plugging the actual P8 into the CPU power, and not a PCI-E rail! Had a noobie tech do that the other week to 10 new computers in a row...

1.  What you are describing is discharging the trace amount of electricity in the capacitors in the motherboard and PSU.  You don't repeatedly push the power switch.  You first unplug the power cord from the wall receptacle with the computer shut down, the you press the power button and hold it down for 20 to 30 seconds.  Dirty power originates in the AC power transmission.  One of the functions of the PSU in a computer is to suppress this dirty power.  This rarely effects the computer.  In this instance I doubt very much there is any chance that this is part of the problem, I discharging the capacitors in the manner you are suggesting is unrealistic.
 
2.  The P8 and P9 power connectors are 12V DC connectors that take their power from the 12V rail in the PSU.  There is no such thing as PCI-E rail, and even if one did exist it would have nothing to do with either of these connectors.  Just for the record, the PCI-E expansion slot depends on a Bus to transmit it data and is rated in its speed to do this.
Thanks for the more indepth description of what it does. I had a friend who worked at Lenovo's PC support division, and what I described was the official "power discharge" procedure that Lenovo enforced as a first step in troubleshooting any power issues. I've been using it for years with all desktops and laptops (pull the battery in addition) and had it successfully resurrect systems when they have taken dirty power from odd circumstances. It acts almost like a reset of sorts in those cases. I'll admit I'm not as well versed with the electronics part of why it works perhaps.

As for the PCI-E rail, I'm talking about these: https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/attachments/pcie6-2-jpg.57637/&imgrefurl=http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2604168/gpu-psu-issue-lack-pin-pci-slots.html&h=359&w=600&tbnid=hntvsEI1dU7fsM:&docid=sZX5XMiR_Xh8IM&ei=m5uSVt68EszQmwGPhICgCg&tbm=isch&client=ms-android-verizon&ved=0ahUKEwie9vn26J_KAhVM6CYKHQ8CAKQQMwgbKAAwAA

I've had a newbie technician plug it into this: https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://i55.tinypic.com/2ecjhwi.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/302085-31-extending-power-wire&h=416&w=906&tbnid=rKJTU-OH9h_raM:&docid=gwqS4NP9-s852M&ei=aJySVryMCsz2mAHry5GgDA&tbm=isch&client=ms-android-verizon&ved=0ahUKEwi84NHY6Z_KAhVMOyYKHetlBMQQMwgbKAAwAA

The CPU fan would twitch and not power on because of this. Thankfully he didn't cry the motherboards. Just one example of a cause if it ends up exhibiting the same symptom.

Edited by Demonslay335, 10 January 2016 - 01:06 PM.

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#6 Demonslay335

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Posted 10 January 2016 - 01:10 PM

To add, in looking at the photos again, I'm suspecting this is possible because he has an all black connector in the CPU power place - standard ATX CPU power is black and yellow like a hornet for distinction, unless his PSU is fancy in trying to be all black.

When I corrected this mistake for my other technician, I had to do a power discharge as I described above to get each one to power on again. Just unplugging it wasn't enough until I flushed the capacitors. Maybe it resets and safety tripped on the motherboard, I don't know exactly in that respect.

Edited by Demonslay335, 10 January 2016 - 01:12 PM.

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