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Help! - My dryer is broke.....or something.


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#1 pistol22cal

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Posted 05 October 2015 - 09:09 PM

My dryer will not start

 

People said could be the thermal fuse --- I connected the two wires from the fuse together thereby bypassing the fuse for testing purposes.

 

No joy!

 

Door and Timer all test well........could it be the motor?

 

Anything else I can check?

 

Note* I am handy with a multimeter 

 

Help!

 

Dryer model is - 

LER5620KQ1

 


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#2 Platypus

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Posted 05 October 2015 - 09:37 PM

Is it a gas or fully electric unit? Have you looked to see if there is a schematic taped or tucked inside the back or under the top lid of the unit? Reading suggests that model may be provided with such a diagram sheet, which would clue you in to what you could check measure.


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#3 Condobloke

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Posted 05 October 2015 - 10:24 PM

Have you unplugged it from the wall socket. ?

 

Give it a minute of two.

 

Plug it back in....try again. (make sure the power point is working)

 

Any humming noise ?...it will be a broken belt

 

The capacitor delivers the initial "power" to start the drum turning.

 

REPLACE CAPACITOR

PLEASE be careful....if you are not licensed etc get a pro to do it.   
 

 

check the outlets for build up of fur/fluff....and give the drum a spin by hand....listen for a belt flopping around as you do this

 

Above all....show care and common sense....electricity kills.

 

We do not wish to provide instructions for building your own coffin !

 

 


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#4 pistol22cal

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Posted 05 October 2015 - 11:02 PM

Have you unplugged it from the wall socket. ?

 

Give it a minute of two.

 

Plug it back in....try again. (make sure the power point is working)

 

Any humming noise ?...it will be a broken belt

 

The capacitor delivers the initial "power" to start the drum turning.

 

REPLACE CAPACITOR

PLEASE be careful....if you are not licensed etc get a pro to do it.   
 

 

check the outlets for build up of fur/fluff....and give the drum a spin by hand....listen for a belt flopping around as you do this

 

Above all....show care and common sense....electricity kills.

 

We do not wish to provide instructions for building your own coffin !

 

 

 

I am a Journeyman Electrician

 

HOWEVER - I am not a dryer repair man/woman

 

The Power - from the breaker to the dryer functions as intended.

 

All the things you mentioned I have replaced or checked minus the motor......saidly I was hoping someone had some insight as that part is approx. $150 for my Whirlpool Electric Dryer

 

The capacitor for this particular model is built into the motor.......sooo BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

 

I digress - the dryer has been without power for two days now it functioned until 2 days ago when the dryer cord shorted against the case of the dryer. Some electrical tape solved this issue until I could get to the hardware store.

 

Upon replacing the power cord in the exact same way the other power cord was installed the unit did not function. 

 

I am going to replace the thermal fuse, door button, and timer switch tomorrow cause its cheap and i have the dryer apart anyway.

 

I will take the motor out as well and test it.......unfortunately it looks like the motor is bad.....given what I know thus far.


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#5 Platypus

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Posted 05 October 2015 - 11:16 PM

Is voltage being supplied to the motor? Or to anything else for that matter - does the unit normally have a power indicator lamp? If you understand electricity and use a multimeter it seems a little pointless to be randomly replacing parts.


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#6 pistol22cal

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Posted 06 October 2015 - 05:28 AM

Not random just no reason not to replace a $3 part since I have the dryer apart and it take 4 seconds to change a thermal fuse - The only part I have not checked is the actual motor and thats just because it is very hard to get to and its very heavy.......I am a girl after all.....SO, I gotta get some help to even get to the other things to test.


Edited by pistol22cal, 06 October 2015 - 05:34 AM.

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#7 Platypus

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Posted 06 October 2015 - 06:38 AM

That's why I was asking if there's any sign of the schematic that is likely supposed to be inside somewhere. You don't need access to the motor to confirm continuity if you can determine which wires connect to it at the control end. Even without a circuit diagram, it's probably not too hard to trace by wire color code and work out which wires are running down to the motor and see if you have reasonable winding resistances, and probably the meter can indicate the presence of the capacitor, maybe not as a capacitance measurement due to the series motor winding, but a capacitor of the size used here most meters will register as a resistance rising to open as it charges. However not all digital meters co-operate well testing capacitors this way.

 

The best indication for the motor would be to see if it's being sent mains voltage. If it is, and it's not trying to run (e.g. buzzing, getting warm) but failing to start due to say a crook phase capacitor, then you immediately know the fault lies in the motor or its wiring. If the motor alone doesn't run, normally you'd expect the heater (if it's electric heat) to still heat up, smell and cut out on the thermal overload.


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#8 softeyes

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Posted 06 October 2015 - 10:12 AM

@pistol22cal  >>>don't shoot!

 

For parts diagrams, check this out:

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/parts-for-whirlpool-ler5620kq1.html

 

or,

http://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Dryer/4-5-583386-/Whirlpool-Dryer-won-t-turn-at-all-LER5620KQ1

 

You go girl :-)

 



#9 pistol22cal

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Posted 06 October 2015 - 02:02 PM

That's why I was asking if there's any sign of the schematic that is likely supposed to be inside somewhere. You don't need access to the motor to confirm continuity if you can determine which wires connect to it at the control end. Even without a circuit diagram, it's probably not too hard to trace by wire color code and work out which wires are running down to the motor and see if you have reasonable winding resistances, and probably the meter can indicate the presence of the capacitor, maybe not as a capacitance measurement due to the series motor winding, but a capacitor of the size used here most meters will register as a resistance rising to open as it charges. However not all digital meters co-operate well testing capacitors this way.

 

The best indication for the motor would be to see if it's being sent mains voltage. If it is, and it's not trying to run (e.g. buzzing, getting warm) but failing to start due to say a crook phase capacitor, then you immediately know the fault lies in the motor or its wiring. If the motor alone doesn't run, normally you'd expect the heater (if it's electric heat) to still heat up, smell and cut out on the thermal overload.

 

Found the diagram online I am working with it now to track down the connections.


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#10 Platypus

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Posted 06 October 2015 - 10:32 PM

Sounds good.


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