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Posted 21 September 2015 - 02:03 PM
Posted 21 September 2015 - 03:03 PM
Hello, and Welcome to BC.
Is there a yellow exclamation mark next you Network Controller in Device Manager of the laptop. Right Click the device and select Properties. Under the Details tab select Hardware IDs in the dropdown box. Copy and post the first line.
What is the make and model of the laptop?
Edited by JohnC_21, 21 September 2015 - 03:04 PM.
Posted 21 September 2015 - 05:15 PM
Hi John. There are yellow yield signs with an exclamation point by all of the items listed under "Other devices" (Base System Device (3 listings), Ethernet Controller (1), RICOH Bay8 Controller (1), USB Controller (1), & Unknown Device (2)). I don't see a Network Controller label in Device Manager. I have a Network adapters heading which has the Intel Centrino Ultimate-N 6300 AGN listed, however that appears to be working fine. Only the items in the Other devices heading have the yellow signs.
The hardware ID entry on the first line for each item with a yellow sign is:
Base System Device #1: PCI\VEN_1180&DEV_0843&SUBSYS_1521103C&REV_14
Base System Device #2: PCI\VEN_1180&DEV_0852&SUBSYS_1521103C&REV_14
Base System Device #3: PCI\VEN_1180&DEV_0592&SUBSYS_1521103C&REV_14
Ethernet Controller: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_10EA&SUBSYS_1521103C&REV_06
RICOH Bay8 Controller: PCMCIA\RICOH-Bay8Controller-F1B2
Universal Serial Bus (USB) Controller: PCI\VEN_1033&DEV_0194&SUBSYS_1521103C&REV_03
Unknown Device #1: USB\VID_138A&PID_0007&REV_0072
Unknown Device #2: ACPI\HPQ0004
The Laptop is a HP Elitebook 8540w. Windows 7 64bit.
Posted 21 September 2015 - 05:40 PM
Your intel Centrino is your wireless adapter. Are you saying you still cannot connect? You did not say if you have Home or Pro.
Base system 1,2, and 3 is your card reader. Go here and select your OS in the dropdown box. The driver is Ricoh Card Reader under the Storage category
Ethernet is Intel 82577LM and 82577LC Gigabit Ethernet Driver (International) under the Network section.
PCI\VEN_1033&DEV_0194&SUBSYS_1521103C&REV_03 is your NEC USB3.0 Controller. Listed under the Firmware Section
Unknown Device #1: USB\VID_138A&PID_0007&REV_0072 is your fingerprint sensor under the Keyboard, Mouse Section
Unknown Device #2: ACPI\HPQ0004 is the HP 3D DriveGuard under the Security Section
Posted 21 September 2015 - 06:04 PM
No I still cannot connect. The bar graph on the taskbar is grayed out with a big red "X" on it. I tried to do a hard wire my connection, but that didn't give me a connection either. I installed the RICOH driver from HP's site, did a reboot and the big red "X" is still there (cannot connect). BTW - Windows 7 Ultimate.
Posted 21 September 2015 - 06:28 PM
The Ricoh drive has nothing to do with the internet connection.
Go here and download the 64bit driver. You want the larger download. I would uninstall the current driver in Device Manager > Right Click > Uninstall before installing. After installing reboot
Did you download and install the Ethernet Driver? If that still does not work then download the 64bit driver here. Same thing in Device Manager > Right Click > Uninstall. Reboot after install.
Posted 21 September 2015 - 07:58 PM
No luck. Deleted, installed, rebooted after each install, and still no connection, just the big red "X".
Posted 21 September 2015 - 08:20 PM
I am not sure what the problem is. You could rule out a hardware problem of the wireless card by booting a small linux distro like Fatdog64. It's about 250MB. Burn the iso and boot the disk. If it senses a wireless signal the wireless wizard will open. If you cannot connect with Fatdog then I would look at using one of these.
Edit: Try downloading and installing the Chipset driver on the support site. That may help the computer recognize the wireless card. Can you connect via an Ethernet cable?
Edit Edit: Also use the Network Troubleshooter.
Edited by JohnC_21, 21 September 2015 - 08:33 PM.
Posted 21 September 2015 - 11:29 PM
John - I booted the Fatdog64 disc twice. The first effort I could not get on the internet via the wireless. The second time I booted using a hard wire (ethernet) and WAS able to access the internet with no problem. I also booted up Win 7 via the ethernet and was also able to get online. I downloaded the Intel driver update tool in case I was missing something. Interestingly, after a scan, the tool came back with a wireless driver to download (even though I had already downloaded and installed the driver you recommended earlier this evening). So I started the downloan and upon beginning the install, the tool came back recognizing that there was already a more recent version of that driver installed.
I then went to check for remaining updates (since I was able to access the internet via the ethernet). There are 28 updates downloading this time. I will get all of the remaining updates installed and get back with you tomorrow to see if there has been any change to the wireless. BTW, I do appreciate the links you provided as an alternative option. All I know is that the wireless has worked without fail up to the reinstallation of Win 7 Ultimate I did yesterday. I can't believe that the wireless became defective at exactly the same moment in time as when I did the reinstall.
Posted 22 September 2015 - 07:09 AM
Can you see any available networks? Right click wireless icon > View Available Networks.
Posted 22 September 2015 - 09:37 AM
I finally completed all of the updates via the ethernet. The wireless now works. Thank you.
I also downloaded both utilities you recommended. Before I begin reinstalling all my personal files and adding the additional programs (office), is there any way to make sure that the computer is free of the malware or virus that has been causing me problems?
Additionally, on my desktop this morning the emsisoft scan came back with a quarantine of the following file: Artimis! 98383ABCE0B7 (Trojan).
Posted 22 September 2015 - 10:09 AM
You don't need to worry about malware on a clean install. The one scan I would do if you are worried is with TDSS killer.
I would recommend you do all your browsing in a User Account, not an Admin account. Provide a strong admin password. If browsing you see the UAC appear, you know something is trying to access your system and you can block it.
I don't know if you use emisoft for an AV but I recommend Bitdefender Free for a Windows 7 AV. You do need to create an account though and it is not compatible with Windows 10 and may never be according to Bitdefender.
HitmanPro Alert is paid but it can defend against unknown malware. It has a 30 day trial. It is compatible with most AVs
You also need to make sure your Router does not have a default username/Password set up to access it's web interface. I would also disable remote access in the router. This prevents somebody offsite from accessing and changing your router settings.
Once you get your laptop setup with your programs I would recommend you do a full disk image with Macrium Free using an external drive to store the image. The software will create a bootable disk so you can recover your image and be back in minutes instead of hours if the hard drive fails or you get a malware infection. File Backups should also be done on a regular basis.
For the Desktop I would download Kaspersky Rescue Disk based on linux using the laptop. You can burn the iso to disk using Windows 7 by right clicking and selecting Burn Disk Image. Connect the desktop using Ethernet which will allow you to update the definitions after the disk boots.
After cleaning the malware using Kaspersky. Download HitmanPro and run it. It requires a internet connection because it is cloud based.
Posted 22 September 2015 - 11:51 AM
Thanks John. No I use McAfee AV Suite (provided with AT&T internet service) as my primary AV/Firewall. I have used Hitman Pro, Emsisoft, Malwarebytes, and SuperAntiSpyware as a secondary tool over the years. I'm not sure which is any, are better than another. I used BitDefender as my primary AV (subscription) a few years back at a previous address. It's hard to tell, even after reading the reviews, which AV program is better than another. Seems like there are a handful of leading providers that are consistently rated at the top year after year, with the differences coming down to user preferences of one feature here or there. I know each tool functions a little differently, so that's why I use a secondary tool to do my best to keep clean (without it becoming my day job, if you know what I mean). With client's personal information in my computer, I want to keep on top of mitigating risks. If you have any thoughts beyond those in your message above, let me know. I do appreciate the clarity.
I have a couple of added questions before I follow your steps.
I work in the financial industry so I need to encrypt my drives with BitLocker. Should I make the full disk image before or after encrypting the drives? Along those lines, if I would ever have to do a restore from the image file, will I need to enter the encryption key to perform that function? I do have the keys written down and stored in a safe accessible place for when needed.
The router I use in my home is provided by AT&T. I haven't had to make any changes to the original set-up. Do you know if I just go through my "My AT&T" online account to access and make changes to the router, or can I access the router directly through my computer?
I have a Kaspersky Rescue Disc but I'm not sure if the computer I burned it on had a virus/malware at the time. Just to be save I'll burn a new one with the clean laptop. Would malware or a virus somehow imbed itself when burning a disc or do they just inhibit the program from executing properly when used on that machine? I guess this question is driven from a curiosity of how these things are spread (once there in your machine) via discs (copied/burned) and flash drives. Should I throw out the rescue discs I burned? Can I scan and clean, format, or do I need to get new flash drives? Once I get this out of my computers, I don't want to re-infect myself via any of the discs, flash drives, or back-ups I've been using. Once again, thanks for the clarity here.
I'll follow-up after getting these items completed.
Posted 22 September 2015 - 12:17 PM
One added question... my college daughter is using Windows 10 and needs an AV recommendation. The McAfee through our service provider isn't approved for Windows 10 at this point. You stated that BitDefender isn't either. What would you recommend she use? If there is a very good free option, as a college kid, that would be nice. If pay is the way to go to get quality, that's fine too. Thx
Posted 22 September 2015 - 12:58 PM
The Kaspersky disk is linux based so I doubt it can get infected if you burn the iso direct. If it did, I doubt it would boot. But, to be safe you can download and burn it on the clean laptop. I would get rid of the rescue disks. CDs are not that expensive vs having an infection even though I have not heard of a disk getting infected during a burn unless the files themselves were infected. Flash drives are another story. They may get infected by attaching to an infected computer. You can sanitize the flash drives using a bootable linux disk like Partition Wizard bootable. Use the wipe option. Don't attach any of the flash drives to your clean laptop. Boot the Partition Wizard disk on the desktop then zero wipe an attached flash drive.
If you have the opportunity to reinstall the OS on the desktop then I would do that. Another option is to zero wipe the hard drive first then all your flash drives you believe are infected.
I would image the drive after it is encrypted. I am not that familiar with Bitlocker but see this article from Macrium. You should store the external drive in a secure place.
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