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Computer Won't Turn On At All (no fans or lights)


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#1 Zallomallo

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Posted 27 June 2015 - 11:14 AM

Hi Bleeping Computees,

 

I recently (~1.2 months ago) built myself a computer with the following specs:

 

Core i7-4790k  w/ Hyper 212 Evo cooler

16GB Corsair RAM @ 1600MHz

Gigabyte G1 970

XFX XTR 550W PSU

Gigabyte G1 Z97 Gaming Mobo

 

It had run with absolutely no issues to this point.  It never even crashed.

 

However this morning I was playing a game (Deus Ex: Human Revolution) when the computer abruptly shut off.  I wasn't concerned, but then found that the PC wasn't turning back on.  There are no lights on the inside of the case anywhere, and when I press the power button, I hear and see absolutely nothing.

 

I have tried:

1. Unplugging and removing all add-in cards

2. Reseating all PSU connections

3. Trying a different PSU to outlet cable

4. Trying a different outlet in a different room

 

None of those have changed the situation at all, the power button will still not cause anything to turn on.

 

Possible scenarios:

1. PSU is dead - I don't have a multimeter or PSU tester

2. MOBO is dead 

3. Power Switch is dead - Least likely, as the PC had an abrupt shutoff before the problem began.

 

Everything is still under warranty, and I am able to get a replacement on the PSU for the next 10 days.

 

Can you guys help me route out a plan of attack?  Thank you!


Edited by Zallomallo, 27 June 2015 - 11:19 AM.


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#2 dc3

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Posted 27 June 2015 - 01:25 PM

The first thing I would check would be the rail voltages of the PSU.

 

You can purchase a digital multimeter at home depot for $17.98.  It would be worth the purchase to know if the problem is with the PSU.  If it isn't, there is a good chance that the problem is with the motherboard.  You can purchase an analog meter for a little less money, but then you would need to learn how to read it.

 

If you do purchase a meter, you can use the instructions below to test the rail voltages.

 

Reading and Testing Desktop PSU Rail Voltages
 
Caution: Please read the following before continuing.
 
 
* Since it will be necessary for your computer to be on during this procedure, you need to be aware that you will be working with live 12Volt DC potentials, which if handled improperly may lead to electrical shock. 
 
* There are electronics inside the case that are very susceptible to electrostatic discharges. To protect your computer, touch the metal of the case to discharge yourself of any electrostatic charges before touching any of the components inside.
 
* If you are not comfortable doing this procedure, then I would suggest that you not use this tutorial. The risks involved are minimal, but are there nevertheless. Anyone who uses this tutorial will be doing so at their own risk.
 
 
There are two devices commonly used to read the rail voltages: a PSU tester, and a multimeter. 
 
The PSU tester is the easiest to use since all that is necessary is to plug the different connectors into the tester and read the results on the LCD display. The problem with most of these is that they only perform a pass/fail test.  They will not provide you with actual voltage readings.
 
There are a variety of multiple meters, but this tutorial will address Analog and Digital multimeters. The advantage of these meters is that you will be able to obtain accurate real time voltage readings.
 
For those of you who wish to know more about multimeters there is an excellent article in Wikipedia.
 
 
Analog Multimeter
 
th_analogedited.jpg
 
 
An Analog multimeter is a little more complicated to use. Both Analog and Digital multimeters need to be set to the appropriate voltage, but with an Analog multimeter, you will need to choose the voltage range and must read the proper scale. 
 
The Analog multimeter uses a needle display which moves from 0 across the scale until it reaches the voltage being tested. This multimeter has five major linear divisions with multiple scales to read a variety of ranges. An example would be three different ranges. The first is graduated in increments of 0 through 5, the second, 0 through 10, and the third, 0 through 25. Each of these ranges are subdivided into divisions that are graduated into tenths. In order to read 12 volts the 0 through 25 range would be the appropriate one. 
 
Because DC voltage has positive and negative potentials this device is polar sensitive, this means that if you reverse the two probes when reading a positive DC voltage it will read as a negative voltage. This is actually necessary to read negative DC voltages. The two probes are differentiated by their color, Black (negative), and Red (positive). To read a positive DC voltage, the correct probes must be used with their corresponding potentials (positive to positive and negative to negative). 
 
With the probes being used normally to read a negative DC voltage, the needle moves from the 0 to the left, "pegging" the needle. By reversing the probes you can properly read the negative voltages.
 
Digital Multimeter
 
th_digitalmeteredited.jpg
 
 
The Digital multimeter (DMM) is much simpler to use. As was mentioned previously, you will need to set the appropriate voltage. One of the advantages is that the DMM has an LCD display with a numeric readout, so there are not any multiple scales to read. Another advantage is that most DMMs are autoranging when reading voltages, which means that you will not need to set the range with these DMMs. A DMM will read both positive and negative DC voltages and display them correctly. When reading a negative voltage, a minus sign will appear on the display before the numeric value. This still is a polar sensitive device, so you will still need to use the positive and negative probes with their corresponding potentials. 
 
There are five different DC rail voltages which are color coded. The Black wires are always negative.
 
Yellow +12VDC
 
Blue -12VDC
 
Red +5VDC
 
White -5VDC
 
Orange +3.3VDC
 
There are only three voltages that can be measured easily without disconnecting the 20/24 pin connector from the motherboard: +12V, +5V, and +3.3V.
 
The +12V and +5V voltages can be read from a four pin Molex power connector.
 
Four pin Molex power connector
 
th_250px-Molex_female_connector.jpg
 
 
The same voltages can be taken from a four pin SATA power connector, but in order to read the +3.3V you will need to read this from a five pin SATA power connector as seen below.
 
Five pin SATA power connector.
 
th_sata-power-cable.jpg
 
To read these voltages you will need to insert the Black (-) probe into any of the black  sockets, and insert the Red (+) probe in the different colored voltage sockets.   To read the voltages from a SATA power connector it is easiest to insert the probes into the bac k of the connector where the wires enter.  Unfortunately the sockets of the modular SATA power connectors are not accessible from the back, so the readings will need to be made from the socket side.  Some probes are going to be too large to fit in these sockets, so you may need to insert a piece of wire into the socket of which you want to read the voltage of and place the probe on this for your reading.  To reduce the potential of creating a short I would suggest taking the ground potential from another connector so that the two wires will remain physically separated.
 
Caution:  It is very important to make sure that you don't allow the two probes to touch each other when taking the voltage readings.  This will cause a short which could damage the PSU or other components.
 
To get the most accurate readings of the rail voltages it is important that there be a load on the PSU.  Running a game or burning a DVD is enough to do this.   If you want a program with will put a load on, I would suggest downloading Prime95 and run the Just Stress Test for this purpose. This program was designed to be used by overclockers to put a full load on the RAM and CPU to determine the stability of their overclocking.  Because of this it will put stress on the CPU and RAM which will create higher than normal temperatures.  For this reason I would suggest not running this program any longer than is necessary.  I would also suggest that an inspection be made of the interior of the case to make sure that there isn’t an accumulation of dust which would impede adequate cooling.  Pay special attention to the heat sink and fan assembly on the CPU.  If there is a dedicated graphics card with a fan installed on it, look at this fan as well.      
 
 
Readings should not have variances larger than +/- five percent.  
 
Maximum.........Minimum
12.6V.................11.4V
5.25V.................4.75V
3.47V.................3.14V

Family and loved ones will always be a priority in my daily life.  You never know when one will leave you.

 

 

 

 


#3 Zallomallo

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Posted 28 June 2015 - 09:46 AM

I can't get any voltages from the PSU after jumping pins 15 and 16, so I'm gonna contact XFX about the warranty and such!



#4 dc3

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Posted 28 June 2015 - 10:11 AM

Just to be thorough...  You placed the jumper in the twenty four pin connector with the PSU turned off, then turned it on?  If you did this and the PSU was working the case fan/s should have turned on.  If they didn't, then the PSU has failed. 


Family and loved ones will always be a priority in my daily life.  You never know when one will leave you.

 

 

 

 


#5 Zallomallo

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Posted 28 June 2015 - 04:18 PM

Correct, I jumpered with the PSU off, then plugged it in and turned it on.  No fans turned on at all.  I tested some of the pins with a multimeter and 0V was measured everywhere.



#6 dc3

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Posted 28 June 2015 - 04:39 PM

Looks like it's time for a new PSU.


Family and loved ones will always be a priority in my daily life.  You never know when one will leave you.

 

 

 

 


#7 Zallomallo

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Posted 28 June 2015 - 04:42 PM

Looks like it's time for a new PSU.

 

Luckily it's under warranty, so I will be shipping it to XFX this week.  Thank you for the help!



#8 dc3

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Posted 28 June 2015 - 04:47 PM

You are very welcome.


Family and loved ones will always be a priority in my daily life.  You never know when one will leave you.

 

 

 

 





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