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CPU Over Voltage Error and Power Supply Surges Detected


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#1 Thedap24

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Posted 19 June 2015 - 06:31 PM

Hi everyone I was wondering if you would be able to assist me with this error that I can not solve. As the title states I get an error on boot that says CPU Over Voltage Error and Power Supply Surges Detected. In the BIOS it the CPU Voltages are in the red. Their values are in the image below. 

I tried taking out the CMOS battery and putting that back in, along with a few other work arounds but with no luck. Hopefully you can assist me in solving this problem. Thanks ahead of time for your assistance.

Here are the computer specs, it was recently built probably about 6 months ago. 

CPU: Intel Core i5-4440 Haswell Quad-Core 3.1GHz (3.3GHz Turbo)
Motherboard: ASUS B85-PLUS LGA 1150 Intel B85 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
GPU: A GeForce GTX 750 1GB 128-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 FTW w/ ACX Cooler Video Card
RAM: HyperX Fury Black Series 8GB 240-Pin DDR3
HDD: Western Digital Blue WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive Bare Drive
OS: Windows 8.1 64bit
PSU: Rosewill RD600 – Stallion Series 600-Watt Power Supply – ATX 12V V2.3, SLI & CrossFire-Ready

 

Below should be images attached. 

 

McBVmmx.jpg

 

If anymore information is need be sure to let me know and I'll post it as soon as possible. Thanks again and hopefully we can figure this out!

 

OnvVdJP.jpg

 

 

 



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#2 technonymous

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Posted 19 June 2015 - 08:03 PM

That's a serious error. Without a voltage tester you can't do much to check the PSU if indeed it's putting out those voltages on the 12volt rails. A power surge or dirty power of some sort could of caused it. Is the computer plugged into a power surge protector? It's likely that the bios battery is dead and caused it to do that. The cpu voltage is normal, cpu fan speed is normal. Pull the bios battery out and buy new one CR2032 3V. After replacing the battery, Unplug the power cord from the power supply and push the power button to drain the PSU. Read the manual on the motherboard on how to jumper the motherboard to reset the bios. Typically moving the jumper from pin 2-3 to pin 1-2 for a few seconds. The jumper will be close to the battery or near the south bridge chipset & bios chip. If it's jumperless motherboard then you you still want to pull the power cord from the PSU and push the power button. Leave it unplugged for a good minute before powering it up and go back into the bios and set it to defaults and reboot the system. If you still have issues then this could be due to motherboard failure or PSU failure. Again, this could be faulty surge or your home circuit is having problems.


Edited by technonymous, 19 June 2015 - 08:05 PM.


#3 Thedap24

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Posted 19 June 2015 - 08:20 PM

When the issue first arrived today it was plugged into a power surge that had other computers plugged in as well, I was setting up a LAN in the garage which we have been doing for years now and have never had a problem like this. I currently am testing it by plugging it directly into the wall.

 

Thank you for your suggestion would newegg be the best place to get a replacement battery?

 

Also all the other computers work so it should not be a faulty surge or a problem with the home circuit.



#4 technonymous

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Posted 19 June 2015 - 10:59 PM

CR2032 battery can be bought at any local store that sells batteries Walmart etc. It's a very common battery for electronics. They only cost a couple dollars for a 2 pack. Since they are cheap I suggest doing that first and see if this problem doesn't go away.



#5 Thedap24

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 12:14 PM

Thanks for your suggestion technonymous sadly it did not solve the issue. Another thread suggested could be bad CPU thermal paste installation, faulty mother board, or faulty CPU. Going to be checking to make sure it is properly installed. Any other suggestions would be much appreciated.



#6 dc3

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 12:53 PM

Please download and install Speccy to provide us with information about your computer.  Clicking on this link will automatically initiate the download. 
 
When Speccy opens you will see a screen similar to the one below.
 
speccy9_zps2d9cdedc.png
 
Click on File which is outlined in red in the screen above, and then click on Publish Snapshot.
 
The following screen will appear, click on Yes.
 
speccy7_zpsfa02105f.png
 
The following screen will appear, click on Copy to Clipboard.
 
speccy3_zps1791b093.png
 
In your next post right click inside the Reply to Topic box, then click on Paste.  This will load a link to the Speccy log.
 
==========
 
You can purchase a digital multimeter at Home Depot for $15.00.
 
You will need to set the meter to the DC Volt scale.  The icon for that scale looks similar to the one below.   
___

-----
  V
 
==========
 

 
Reading and Testing Desktop PSU Rail Voltages
 
Caution: Please read the following before continuing.
 
 
* Since it will be necessary for your computer to be on during this procedure, you need to be aware that you will be working with live 12Volt DC potentials, which if handled improperly may lead to electrical shock. 
 
* There are electronics inside the case that are very susceptible to electrostatic discharges. To protect your computer, touch the metal of the case to discharge yourself of any electrostatic charges before touching any of the components inside.
 
* If you are not comfortable doing this procedure, then I would suggest that you not use this tutorial. The risks involved are minimal, but are there nevertheless. Anyone who uses this tutorial will be doing so at their own risk.
 
 
There are two devices commonly used to read the rail voltages: a PSU tester, and a multimeter. 
 
The PSU tester is the easiest to use since all that is necessary is to plug the different connectors into the tester and read the results on the LCD display. The problem with most of these is that they only perform a pass/fail test.  They will not provide you with actual voltage readings.
 
There are a variety of multiple meters, but this tutorial will address Analog and Digital multimeters. The advantage of these meters is that you will be able to obtain accurate real time voltage readings.
 
For those of you who wish to know more about multimeters there is an excellent article in Wikipedia.
 
 
Analog Multimeter
 
th_analogedited.jpg
 
 
An Analog multimeter is a little more complicated to use. Both Analog and Digital multimeters need to be set to the appropriate voltage, but with an Analog multimeter, you will need to choose the voltage range and must read the proper scale. 
 
The Analog multimeter uses a needle display which moves from 0 across the scale until it reaches the voltage being tested. This multimeter has five major linear divisions with multiple scales to read a variety of ranges. An example would be three different ranges. The first is graduated in increments of 0 through 5, the second, 0 through 10, and the third, 0 through 25. Each of these ranges are subdivided into divisions that are graduated into tenths. In order to read 12 volts the 0 through 25 range would be the appropriate one. 
 
Because DC voltage has positive and negative potentials this device is polar sensitive, this means that if you reverse the two probes when reading a positive DC voltage it will read as a negative voltage. This is actually necessary to read negative DC voltages. The two probes are differentiated by their color, Black (negative), and Red (positive). To read a positive DC voltage, the correct probes must be used with their corresponding potentials (positive to positive and negative to negative). 
 
With the probes being used normally to read a negative DC voltage, the needle moves from the 0 to the left, "pegging" the needle. By reversing the probes you can properly read the negative voltages.
 
Digital Multimeter
 
th_digitalmeteredited.jpg
 
 
The Digital multimeter (DMM) is much simpler to use. As was mentioned previously, you will need to set the appropriate voltage. One of the advantages is that the DMM has an LCD display with a numeric readout, so there are not any multiple scales to read. Another advantage is that most DMMs are autoranging when reading voltages, which means that you will not need to set the range with these DMMs. A DMM will read both positive and negative DC voltages and display them correctly. When reading a negative voltage, a minus sign will appear on the display before the numeric value. This still is a polar sensitive device, so you will still need to use the positive and negative probes with their corresponding potentials. 
 
There are five different DC rail voltages which are color coded. The Black wires are always negative.
 
Yellow +12VDC
 
Blue -12VDC
 
Red +5VDC
 
White -5VDC
 
Orange +3.3VDC
 
There are only three voltages that can be measured easily without disconnecting the 20/24 pin connector from the motherboard: +12V, +5V, and +3.3V.
 
The +12V and +5V voltages can be read from a four pin Molex power connector.
 
Four pin Molex power connector
 
th_250px-Molex_female_connector.jpg
 
 
The same voltages can be taken from a four pin SATA power connector, but in order to read the +3.3V you will need to read this from a five pin SATA power connector as seen below.
 
Five pin SATA power connector.
 
th_sata-power-cable.jpg
 
To read these voltages you will need to insert the Black (-) probe into any of the black  sockets, and insert the Red (+) probe in the different colored voltage sockets.   To read the voltages from a SATA power connector it is easiest to insert the probes into the bac k of the connector where the wires enter.  Unfortunately the sockets of the modular SATA power connectors are not accessible from the back, so the readings will need to be made from the socket side.  Some probes are going to be too large to fit in these sockets, so you may need to insert a piece of wire into the socket of which you want to read the voltage of and place the probe on this for your reading.  To reduce the potential of creating a short I would suggest taking the ground potential from another connector so that the two wires will remain physically separated.
 
Caution:  It is very important to make sure that you don't allow the two probes to touch each other when taking the voltage readings.  This will cause a short which could damage the PSU or other components.
 
To get the most accurate readings of the rail voltages it is important that there be a load on the PSU.  Running a game or burning a DVD is enough to do this.   If you want a program with will put a load on, I would suggest downloading Prime95 and run the Just Stress Test for this purpose. This program was designed to be used by overclockers to put a full load on the RAM and CPU to determine the stability of their overclocking.  Because of this it will put stress on the CPU and RAM which will create higher than normal temperatures.  For this reason I would suggest not running this program any longer than is necessary.  I would also suggest that an inspection be made of the interior of the case to make sure that there isn’t an accumulation of dust which would impede adequate cooling.  Pay special attention to the heat sink and fan assembly on the CPU.  If there is a dedicated graphics card with a fan installed on it, look at this fan as well.      
 
 
Readings should not have variances larger than +/- five percent.  
 
Maximum.........Minimum
12.6V.................11.4V
5.25V.................4.75V
3.47V.................3.14V

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#7 Thedap24

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 12:57 PM

Dc3 Thank you for your post. I have determined it is not the PSU that is not the problem I tested a working PSU from another computer and got the same error. I also can not run that program since my computer can not even boot up... any suggestions to get it to boot?



#8 dc3

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 01:02 PM

What operating system are you running?


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#9 Thedap24

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 01:03 PM

Windows 8.1 64-bit



#10 dc3

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 01:07 PM

Do you have the installation disc for this version of Windows 8.1?


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#11 Thedap24

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 01:10 PM

I do.



#12 dc3

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 01:25 PM

You will need to set the boot order in the BIOS so that the optic drive is the first device and the HDD/SSD drive is the second.

 

While you have the computer on open the optic drive tray and place the installation disc in it, close the drive and restart the computer.

 

When the computer restarts you will receive a message that essentially state press any key to boot from the disc.

 

When the Install Windows page appears, click/tap Repair your computer to access System Recovery Options.  In the System Recovery Options click/tap on Startup Repair.


Edited by dc3, 20 June 2015 - 01:27 PM.

Family and loved ones will always be a priority in my daily life.  You never know when one will leave you.

 

 

 

 


#13 Thedap24

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 01:59 PM

Weird. I followed the steps and did that but when I click Repair your computer the box disappears and sits there with a blank purple screen (the background of the repair) with the mouse still able to move. I can post a pictures if you would like to see what happens.



#14 dc3

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 02:58 PM

Try this.

 

Insert the disc and restart your computer.
 
At the Windows Setup screen, click/tap Next.
 
Click/tap Repair your computer, or press R.
 
w8.1%20install_zpsxyafdkek.png
 
Follow the prompts till you reach the System Recovery Options, then select Startup Repair.

Edited by dc3, 20 June 2015 - 03:00 PM.

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#15 Thedap24

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 03:05 PM

I got to that the first time and I click Repair your computer and it gives the purple background screen. I took the HDD out and tried it in a working computer and it will not boot. Going to try the repair disk in it now. Could this be a part of the cause of the error i'm receiving in the other computer?






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