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Specific "PC won't turn on" Issue. Help?


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#1 NewDudeHere

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Posted 16 June 2015 - 12:07 PM

I'm new to computer building, so if I don't provide enough information or if my descriptions are vague I'm very sorry. I'm just desperate for some help.

 

I built a new computer with these specs:

 

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor

Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-GAMING 7 ATX LGA1150

Memory: (2x) Corsair XMS 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory

Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive

Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE

Case: Corsair 500R Black ATX Mid Tower Case

Power Supply: Corsair CX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX

Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer

Monitor: Asus VE228H 21.5" Monitor

 

Everything was running smoothly the day I built it. I installed all the drives and It would turn on and off easily and quickly; but yesterday morning I pressed the button to turn it on and it just... wouldn't. I tried turning it on by the motherboard power switch, which is lighted up to show it is powered, and it still would not turn on. Eventually, around 3pm that day, it randomly came on and stayed on the rest of the day. This morning it's pulling the same crap.

 

To summarize:

  • PC won't turn on.
  • Motherboard shows sign that it is connected to power.

Any help to fix this issue would be greatly appreciated.



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#2 Mike.Tech

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Posted 16 June 2015 - 12:15 PM

Remove and replace the motherboard main and auxiliary power connectors? Possibly a poor contact.

Do you have a meter to test the voltages?

 

Maybe a malfunctioning usb accessory? These have been known to stop booting, but no beeps.



#3 YeahBleeping

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Posted 16 June 2015 - 12:27 PM

A quick web search for 500r power switch brings up quite a few (more than I would want to see) failures due to the i/o plate connector.  If you can power it on by shorting across the two power pins with a screwdriver than it is the switch / wires to the switch / wires from the switch/ you may want to contact corsair-- as from this post on their site.

 

PS- Welcome to BC =))


Edited by YeahBleeping, 16 June 2015 - 12:29 PM.


#4 NewDudeHere

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Posted 16 June 2015 - 12:45 PM

A quick web search for 500r power switch brings up quite a few (more than I would want to see) failures due to the i/o plate connector.  If you can power it on by shorting across the two power pins with a screwdriver than it is the switch / wires to the switch / wires from the switch/ you may want to contact corsair-- as from this post on their site.

 

PS- Welcome to BC =))

 

Thank you for the welcome, and thank you for the effort you've put in so far to help me out! Now, Sadly, I can not use the screwdriver-power-on method to turn it on because the motherboard comes with a fancy power button on itself. This button is lighted showing it is receiving power, but it is not turning the computer on.

 

Remove and replace the motherboard main and auxiliary power connectors? Possibly a poor contact.

Do you have a meter to test the voltages?

 

Maybe a malfunctioning usb accessory? These have been known to stop booting, but no beeps.

 

Thank you for responding and trying to help me out! I have removed and replaced all power cables, but nothing has so far helped. As for a malfunctioning USB accessory, I have no idea how to check for that.

 

Oh, and I don't have any voltage meters.



#5 YeahBleeping

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Posted 16 June 2015 - 01:16 PM

Okay then the last thing to do is to bench it.  Take the motherboard out of the case and try to turn it on.  If it powers on then your grounding out somewhere inside the case.  Either a stand off in the wrong spot or some other area.

 

Be sure to put the motherboard on a block of wood or some cardboard.. make sure your power leads are secure.


Edited by YeahBleeping, 16 June 2015 - 01:19 PM.


#6 mjd420nova

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Posted 16 June 2015 - 03:27 PM

There are so many different configurations for the placement of power switches and designs for "dead panel" controls.  That means the unit has the provision for low voltage switches for power control on the front panel, not actual 110 volt AC wiring.  This was done to remove lethal voltages from inside the case and confine the to inside the power supply case.  Pin connectors on the MOBO allow the connection to the switch via ribbon cable. 



#7 NewDudeHere

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Posted 17 June 2015 - 09:00 PM

Okay then the last thing to do is to bench it.  Take the motherboard out of the case and try to turn it on.  If it powers on then your grounding out somewhere inside the case.  Either a stand off in the wrong spot or some other area.

 

Be sure to put the motherboard on a block of wood or some cardboard.. make sure your power leads are secure.

 

I took the motherboard out and it did not power on. Does that narrow the problem down to the motherboard or power supply? Also, do I need to take the power supply out of the case as well?



#8 NewDudeHere

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Posted 17 June 2015 - 09:04 PM

There are so many different configurations for the placement of power switches and designs for "dead panel" controls.  That means the unit has the provision for low voltage switches for power control on the front panel, not actual 110 volt AC wiring.  This was done to remove lethal voltages from inside the case and confine the to inside the power supply case.  Pin connectors on the MOBO allow the connection to the switch via ribbon cable. 

 

I believe I get the gist of what you're saying, but there is a lot of jargon in there that I don't quite understand. Can you give me what you just said in a "explain like I'm 5" way? Sorry!



#9 mjd420nova

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Posted 17 June 2015 - 09:28 PM

Basically, there is a low voltage, usually 5 volts that comes from the power supply, to the MOBO, this supply is always on.  A cable and wiring from the MOBO to the front panel power switch has only five volts and is considered non-hazardous.  Many MOBO boards come with LEDs to indicate system power conditions.  These vary from mfgr to mfgr.  Replacing the P/S needs to be of the same type if it has this arrangement.  Many older types had the power switch on the back where it fit in a slot above the exhaust fan.  Even older units had elaborate plastic pieces to create a non-conductive action on a 110 volt power switch.



#10 NewDudeHere

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Posted 17 June 2015 - 09:59 PM

Basically, there is a low voltage, usually 5 volts that comes from the power supply, to the MOBO, this supply is always on.  A cable and wiring from the MOBO to the front panel power switch has only five volts and is considered non-hazardous.  Many MOBO boards come with LEDs to indicate system power conditions.  These vary from mfgr to mfgr.  Replacing the P/S needs to be of the same type if it has this arrangement.  Many older types had the power switch on the back where it fit in a slot above the exhaust fan.  Even older units had elaborate plastic pieces to create a non-conductive action on a 110 volt power switch.

 

I see, so you're saying that just because a light comes on on the motherboard, that doesn't mean it's receiving a good supply. So that is pointing towards a bad power supply?






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