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Hardware Problems Windows 7-Startup, USB, Speakers


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#1 problemcannotsolve

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Posted 14 June 2015 - 09:08 AM

I have three problems which has lasted for *several* months.

  • My computer takes a long time to power up, at times. I have to push the power button repeatedly anywhere from 2 to 8 minutes, before it will turn on. It seems as though it is an "air pump". After I push it so many times, the last time I push the power button in I can feel resistance, then it turns on. There are times when I just have to push the button once or twice, it turns on right way. After I come back in 20-60 minutes, it may only take a second or two to start-up.  Because the time varies for start-up I have dismissed the problem.  I tried a can of air to blow out the dust, temporary fix. It is annoying. 
  • My usb port went out one day. I have three of them in the front of my computer. Two of them work, but the third one does not. I have tried reinstalling the usb hub in device manager, no help. I thought it was a virus, but I thought the problem would go away after I reinstalled windows 7. No help. 
  • My front speakers will not work using the jacks. I have uninstalled and reinstalled retek . They used to work last year. Now the only way I can listen to sound through headphones is to use an usb headphone adaptor. I would like to plug my headphones into the jacks which came with the computer.

 



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#2 dc3

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Posted 14 June 2015 - 09:58 AM

Since you posted that there are USB ports on the front of this computer, I'm guessing that this is a desktop?

 

Let's see if the power switch is working properly.

 

If you have a multimeter you can set it to the Ohms scale to test if the power switch is functioning.  You will need to turn off the computer and unplug it from the wall receptacle.

 

Before you touch anything inside the case touch the bare metal of the case to discharge any static electricity in your system.  Electrostatic discharges can kill board components.

 

If you open the side panel of the case you will see the motherboard.  You will see a header similar to the one in the image below.

 

power%20switch%20header%20pins_zpsxvwswt

 

Each connector on this header will be labeled, the power switch is usually labeled PW.  It will have two wires in the connector.

 

If you remove this connector you can take a paper clip which you have cut into two straight pieces and insert these in the connector.  Then you need to set the meter to the Ohm scale and place the two lead against the two paper clip parts (wires).  Now press the power button and there should be a change in the meter reading.  If this is an analog meter it will have a needle which should move.  If it is a digital meter, the numbers will change.  If nothing happens with the meter set properly and placed properly against the two wires, the switch is bad.

 

If you do not have a multimeter there is another way to test to see if there is a problem with the switch.  For this you will need to have the computer plugged into the wall receptacle. 

 

Locate the power switch connector and remove it from the header pins.  Take a small slot type screw driver and very briefly place it so that it touches the two headers at the same time.  This should start the computer.

 

If the switch is good you will need to determine if there is a problem with the motherboard.  To do this, use the instructions below.

 

The purpose of this procedure is to bypass the motherboard to test the PSU.
 
When a computer begins the boot process the motherboard initiates the start up of the PSU. Because of this it is difficult to determine whether the problem is with the motherboard or the PSU when a computer shows no signs of starting up. The purpose of the procedure is to determine if the problem is with the motherboard or the PSU.  For safety purposes please follow the instructions step by step.
 
Caution:  Since it will be necessary for your computer to be on during this procedure, you need to be aware that you will be working with live 12Volt DC potentials, which if handled improperly may lead to electrical shock.  The risks are minimal, but are there nevertheless.  If you are uncomfortable doing this procedure I would suggest  you not try this.  Anyone using this tutorial will be doing so at their own risk. 
 
There are electronic components inside the case that are very susceptible to electrostatic discharges. To protect your computer, touch the metal of the case to discharge yourself of any electrostatic charge before touching any of the components inside.
 
Shut down your computer, then unplug the power cable from the rear of the computer.  To reduce the possibility of any shock press and hold the power button for thirty seconds to discharge any capacitors still holding a charge.
 
The connector of the PSU which connects to the motherboard is readily recognizable by the large number of wires in the bundle.  To disconnect it you will need to press on the plastic clip to disengage it and then pull the connector up and away from the motherboard.  Please take notice of the location of the locking tab and the notch on the socket of the motherboard, this will only connect one way as it is keyed.  This wire bundle will have a memory of the way it has been installed and will want to bend back that direction, you may have to play around with it to find a position that the connector will stay in the same position while you run the test.
 
th_main24index.jpg
 
From the top left to right the pins are 13-24, the bottom from left to right are 1-12.
 
Below are the pinouts for the 20 and 24 pin ATX form factor connectors.
 
atxpinout_zpsfe72bf61.png
  
Please notice that there are PSUs with 24 pin and 20 pin connectors, the location of the green wire in the 24 pin connector is #16, and the green wire in the 20 pin connector is #14.  If you look at the connector with socket side facing you and the clip on the top the number one pin will be on the bottom left corner.  This makes the pin out for the 24 pin connector from left to right 13-24 on top, and 1-12 on the bottom.  The pin out for the 20 pin connector from left to right is 11-20 on top , and 1-10 on the bottom. If you look at the connectors you notice that these are sockets that fit over the pins on the motherboard where the PSU cable attaches, this is where you will place the jumper.  For a jumper you will need a piece of solid wire about the size of a paper clip (20-22 awg), preferably a wire with insulation.  It will need to be large enough to fit firmly into the socket so that it will not need to be held in place while testing.  You are at risk of electrical shock if you are holding the jumper when you power up the PSU.  Insert one end of the jumper into the socket of the Green wire, and insert the other end into the socket of any Black wire.
 
Once the jumper is in place plug the cord back in. If the PSU is working properly the case fans, optical drives, hdds, and LEDs should power up and remain on.  
 
To reconnect the 20/4 pin connector unplug the power cord, remove the jumper, and reconnect the connector. Take a moment at this time to make sure that nothing has been dislodged inside the case.

Family and loved ones will always be a priority in my daily life.  You never know when one will leave you.

 

 

 

 


#3 problemcannotsolve

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Posted 14 June 2015 - 10:31 AM

Yes, it is a desktop computer. I will get back to you. Thank you.

Windows automatically updated on my computer (8,014) and now I do not have the internet. Internet goes out EVERY time Windows updates. I turned off Windows updates but it updates automatically when computer is off. I reinstall Windows 7 and have internet until Windows updates. Eventhough I uninstall some updates I still have no internet. FRUSTATED. HELP please.

In my frustration I pulled the computer several inches away from the wall. The internet is working again.


Edited by hamluis, 06 July 2015 - 05:50 PM.
Merged posts - Hamluis.


#4 problemcannotsolve

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Posted 04 July 2015 - 04:07 PM

I have resolved the internet connection problem I was having. The solution was the router.  I had to change the "auto" on the port the ethernet cable is connected, to !0M. Now the connection is always on/available.\
Mod Edit:  Merged posts - Hamluis.
Hello,
 
Thank you for your assistance. My computer is a desktop.
 
 I do not have a multimeter. I am very "leary" about doing what you are suggesting. I don't want to do something wrong and stop my computer from working with my "tickering". The only thing I have done is increased the RAM which seemed simple. It will take some time for me to do what you are suggesting. 
 
I had the idea of changing the power management in BIOS so the computer stays on when the power fails. I noticed when I turned the computer on, the lights flash on the keyboard and speaker after I stopped pushing the power button. The computer came on by itself. This led me to believe, as I suspected that maybe a wire was loose. When enough power "was pumped" into the computer it comes on. Once on, it works fine. Will changing the power management cause any damage to the computer?
 
Regarding the speakers and usb port, I read in an internet post a generic audio driver is installed in Windows which makes the Realtek unnecessary. If the generic driver is uninstalled Realtek will work, allowing the front speakers to work. I tried this and nothing happened. As I though back on it, my front speakers and usb port stopped working after the duplicate system devices appeared in the device manager. For example four AMD files, at least 13 PCI standard files, etc. I thought one or more of them could be "blocking a connection". I disabled some. Didn't work. I took a screenshot of my device manager  but I don't know how to send it to you.  
 
Do you have any thoughts on this?

Edited by hamluis, 06 July 2015 - 05:53 PM.


#5 dc3

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Posted 05 July 2015 - 09:06 AM

You do not need to quote my previous posts.

 

What is the make and model of this computer?

 

Let's go back to the power switch.  This switch is what is known as a momentary switch.  It is like the old time door bell.  You press the button and the door bell rings and will continue to ring as long as the button is pressed.  All that is necessary to start a computer is to press the button very briefly.  When you press the button it shorts the green wire and one black wire in the 24 pin connector from the Power Supply Unit (PSU) which is attached to the motherboard.  When these two wires are shorted together this starts the PSU.  If you use the tutorial above we can determine if there is a problem with the PSU or the power switch and or motherboard.

 

You stated that you reinstalled Windows 7, how did you do this.  Did you use the recovery partition to return the operating system to the condition it came out of the box?  Of did you use a installation disc to do this?

 

If you used a installation disc (not to be confused with a recovery disc) did you install all of the needed drivers from the manufacturer's website?

 

About the time that Windows 7 came out manufacturers like Dell, HP, Gateway, etc. quit providing installation discs.  These manufacturers now include a small partition which can be used to reinstall the operating system.  The most prominent type is a destructive installation where everything that was added after first starting to use the computer will be removed.  This means all of the non-Microsoft programs installed through downloads or from discs will be gone.  All of your pictures, documents, etc.  There are a few manufacturers who provide a nondestructive reinstallation where the only changes made are to the Windows files.

 

You do not want to change the power settings in the BIOS, you can change the Power Options in the Control Panel.

 

You posted that after pulling the computer away from the wall you were able to connect with the internet.  How are you connecting to your internet service provider (ISP)?  

 

An Ethernet cable between the computer and a modem?

 

A Ethernet cable or wifi adapter to a router and the a Ethernet cable between the router and the modem?

 

First off, the connection for your speakers is not a USB port, there are jacks on the rear of the case which are round and multicolored to indicate their function.

 

To be completely honest with you, things are confused enough at this point that I would suggest reinstalling the operating system again and start from scratch.  This is a suggestion I don't often make, but in view of the problems you are experiencing and the fact that you recently did a reinstall this is a good option.  

 

If you run into problems after reinstalling the operating system, please open a new topic.  Do not make any changes unless these are suggested by a member who knows what they are doing.


Edited by dc3, 05 July 2015 - 09:07 AM.

Family and loved ones will always be a priority in my daily life.  You never know when one will leave you.

 

 

 

 


#6 problemcannotsolve

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Posted 05 July 2015 - 12:13 PM

My computer is a Gateway GT5240E Media Center Edition / AMD 64 160GB HDD 1GB DDR Purchased in 2006.  It came with Windows XP and the ability to upgrade to 4GB of Ram.

 

I installed Windows 7 from an installation CD I did a complete removal of everything. I increased the RAM to 2GB.

 

I changed the power option in BIOS back to off.

 

Moving the computer away from the wall helped the internet connection for a time, but it was not permanent. The problem with the internet connection has been resolved. It was the router. The port the ethernet cable was connected to on the router was set to "auto". I changed it to "10M".  Now the connection works fine.

 

My speakers and mouse are connected to the computer by USB cable in the back of the computer. I have 4 usb ports in the back of the computer, and three in the front. Everytime I disabled the USB controller in the Device Manager I lost my mouse, until I restarted and the driver reinstalled. I am assuming the usb ports in the back are conctrolled by different drivers than the usb ports in the front. The four usb ports in the back, work.Two of the three usb ports in the front work. When I plug headphones in the speaker jack in the front, there is not sound. The microphone jack does work.

 

Perhaps I have a virus that is "blocking" the connection. But my antivirus is not picking up anything using deep scan in safe mode.

 

Reinstalling the operating system justs installs the same drivers again. I have done this multiple times. I am thinking if the duplicate drivers in the device manager could be deleted, the one usb port would recognize my flash drive, and my headphones would work. They did work last year after the upgrade to Windows 7.


Edited by problemcannotsolve, 05 July 2015 - 12:24 PM.


#7 dc3

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Posted 05 July 2015 - 12:44 PM

What is the make and model of your audio system?

 

Windows 7 does not have all of the drivers you need for this Gateway computer.  You will need to go to their website and download the drivers you need for Windows 7.  The first driver to install will be the chipset drivers.


Family and loved ones will always be a priority in my daily life.  You never know when one will leave you.

 

 

 

 


#8 problemcannotsolve

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Posted 07 July 2015 - 11:49 AM

The front headphone jack is working now using Realtek audio.

Edited by problemcannotsolve, 07 July 2015 - 11:49 AM.


#9 dc3

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Posted 08 July 2015 - 08:30 AM

I've made suggestions regarding problems which need to be addressed.  You apparently have chosen to disregard these suggestions.  Because of this I don't believe I can help you.


Family and loved ones will always be a priority in my daily life.  You never know when one will leave you.

 

 

 

 


#10 problemcannotsolve

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Posted 08 July 2015 - 11:40 AM

I am just informing you, as I resolve my problems. I have solved the one problem of the headphone jack.

I have reinstalled the operating system multiple times, which has not helped. I downloaded a driver previously which was one of your suggestions. After tickering with the settings, it worked. I will download others drivers. I have not tried your power switch solution because that takes more time than I have at the moment. As I explained earlier I am leary of this, requiring me to go *very slowly* thru the process.

To say that I have disregarded your suggestions when I have not tried all of them is not accurate. If you choose not to help me, that is fine. I understand.

#11 YeahBleeping

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Posted 08 July 2015 - 12:23 PM

I think DC's issue with your postings (as well my issue) is that you posted that you have all these problems that you have had for 'several months time ' and then within hours you fixmost if not all of them so it sounds like your simply trolling -especially when some of your fix's sound a bit outlandish.  'I pulled my pc away from the wall and it fixed my internet connection for awhile'.  Lets just say normally when people come to a tech forum for help it is of a last resort and not:

 

I have had all these problems for awhile and now I am going to fix them and while I do that I am going to tell everyone on here what I do.

 

Because, when then people offer you advice- you sound like your ignoring their advice... and simply carrying on with whatever you want to do .. to ' finally ' work on fixing your problems.

 

I think maybe you simply need to work on your ' I need help ' etiquette '  and I mean no dis-respect I am simply trying to provide you how you come across.



#12 problemcannotsolve

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Posted 08 July 2015 - 05:07 PM

I did not realize I was coming across in the wrong manner. I did not know there was an etiquette to ask for help. I do not come to these sides often, maybe once a year. The suggestions made allowed me to think thru what I was experiencing, so I did receive help.

I am not familiar with the word 'trolling'. It sounds like I have committed a crime or done something wrong. I came to the wrong place. My apologizes for wasting your time.

No more posts will come from me.




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