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Windows 7 exxxxtreemly slow to start.


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#1 jlallen007

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Posted 19 March 2015 - 10:46 AM

My win 7 machine has suddenly gotten very slow to start up. The initial post even seems slow. So my question is are there any free diag tools to test the hardware to verify there are no issues such as memory stalls, clocking violations, effective memory throughput, disk access times, etc. 

 

 

     CPU Intel Core i7 950      Codename Bloomfield      Specification Intel® Core™ i7 CPU 950 @ 3.07GHz      Package (platform ID) Socket 1366 LGA (0x1)   Mainboard Model ABIT X58-USB3 (0x0000020F - 0x00B009AA)  Graphics NVIDIA GeForce GTX 760

 

Any help is appreciated.

 

Thanks


Edited by hamluis, 24 March 2015 - 09:12 AM.
Moved from Win 7 to Internal Hardware - Hamluis.


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#2 zingo156

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Posted 19 March 2015 - 11:07 AM

I have some diagnostic utilities that can be used but first let's get more information please download and run speccy:

 

  • Go to Piriform's website, and click the big download.png button.
  • Next, click Download from Piriform.com (the FileHippo link requires an extra click). Or if you want to use a portable version of Speccy (which doesn't require installation), click the builds page link and download the portable version.
  • You will now be asked where you want to save the file. The best place to put it is the Desktop, as it will be easy to find later.
  • After the file finishes downloading, you are ready to run Speccy. If you downloaded the installer, simply double-click on it and follow the prompts until installation is complete. If you downloaded the portable version, you will need to unzip it before use. Right-click the ZIP file and click Extract all. Click Next. Open up the extracted folder and double-click on Speccy.
  • Once inside Speccy, it will look similar to this (with your computer's specifications, of course):
    p22004369.gif
  • Now, at the top, click File > Publish Snapshot
  • You will see the following prompt:
    p22004371.gif
  • Click Yes > then Copy to Clipboard
    p22004372.gif
  • Now, once you are back in the forum topic you are posting in, click the p22004370.gif button. Right-click in the empty space of the Reply box and click Paste. Then, click Add Reply below the Reply box.
  • Congrats! You have just posted your specs!

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#3 jlallen007

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Posted 20 March 2015 - 11:21 AM

Done.

 

http://speccy.piriform.com/results/tVoHM5Yqbd3YyhG5PFU5BGH



#4 jlallen007

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Posted 20 March 2015 - 11:25 AM

This looks a little unusual. Why is the core bus speed so much slower then the rated. Perhaps this is throttled based on activity.

 

Bus Speed: 
134.9 MHz
Rated Bus Speed: 
2428.4 MHz


#5 zingo156

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Posted 20 March 2015 - 11:32 AM

I will be reviewing your speccy report.

 

Intel generally does have potential to under clock when idle to save power, that may be the reason, it might also be the maximum value. The FSB is multiplied by the "Clock Multiplier" to get your cpu frequency.

 

 

 

The frequency at which a processor (CPU) operates is determined by applying a clock multiplier to the front-side bus (FSB) speed in some cases. For example, a processor running at 3200 MHz might be using a 400 MHz FSB. This means there is an internal clock multiplier setting (also called bus/core ratio) of 8. That is, the CPU is set to run at 8 times the frequency of the front-side bus: 400 MHz × 8 = 3200 MHz. Different CPU speeds are achieved by varying either the FSB frequency or the CPU multiplier.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Front-side_bus


Edited by zingo156, 20 March 2015 - 11:48 AM.

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#6 zingo156

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Posted 20 March 2015 - 11:52 AM

Your hardware looks ok, no obvious signs of problems. A few software issues stick out:

 

Antivirus: Disabled (I did see malwarebytes but you should have an AV as well)

 

I would strongly recommend you install an anti-virus something like Microsoft Security Essentials or Avast with Malwarebytes.

 

If there are windows updates available get all of those as well.

 

Your version of Flash player appears to be out of date, I would recommend you get the newest version here: https://get.adobe.com/flashplayer/

Uncheck the offer if you do not want it. They bundle Mccaffee with their installer if you do not uncheck it.

 

This looks like junkware:

 

SP.exe
Process ID: 4988
User: John
Domain: John-PC
Path: C:\Users\John\AppData\Roaming\Search Protection\SP.exe
Memory Usage: 12 MB

 

When you mention you think the post is slow, can you explain this a bit more... Does the splash screen (motherboard post screen) seem to be taking longer than usual?


Edited by zingo156, 20 March 2015 - 12:01 PM.

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#7 zingo156

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Posted 20 March 2015 - 11:55 AM

I did notice an issue with your voltages however I do not believe speccy was accurate or likely the computer would not be running.

 

Your 12v rail was only reporting 1.536 volts

+12V: 1.536 V

 

It might be a good idea to get a second opinion on the voltages. I would download HWmonitor and check them in that software. You can take a screen shot and post that here or upload it to dropbox and post a link.

 

You can get HWmonitor here: http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor-pro.html

 

I would like to see an image like this one if possible: http://screenshots.en.sftcdn.net/en/scrn/68000/68990/hwmonitor-4.jpg


Edited by zingo156, 20 March 2015 - 11:59 AM.

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#8 jlallen007

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Posted 21 March 2015 - 11:40 PM

zingo

 

By post I did mean the initial splash screen just as, or just after the BIOS has loaded (not sure the relationship between that screen and the BIOS actually being loaded). Then after that the initial signs of life from windows would run very very slow. About 15-20s before "Starting Windows" appears.

 

I ran HWMonitor pro and got a similar result on the 12V supply. That doesn't seen to makes sense. What does the 12V supply provide power to? -5V was also wrong and so was +5VCCH. I'm going to check them in the BIOS setup to see what that reports.



#9 zingo156

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Posted 22 March 2015 - 08:21 AM

The 12v rail supplies power to nearly every component in the computer at some point. I highly doubt it is accurate, my guess is the software is not compatible. Try the bios, see if the voltages are correct there. If you have a multimeter you might consider testing the voltages manually:

 


Edited by zingo156, 22 March 2015 - 08:21 AM.

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#10 jlallen007

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Posted 23 March 2015 - 08:13 PM

12V OK in the BIOS setup screen. One more thing I did not mention, this problem is intermittent. Sometimes it starts up OK. I'm thinking of trying to remove and reinsert the components (memory, graphics card, CPU, etc) just to exercise the connectors. Also going to try default fail safe BIOS settings. I haven't really done anything extreme like overclocking and such but it's worth a shot.



#11 zingo156

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Posted 24 March 2015 - 07:03 AM

All of those are good options. Intermittent issues are the hardest to diagnose unfortunately. If an issue is able to be reproduced on demand that makes it far easier.

 

One thing we can say with certainty is a slow post (splash screen) is always going to be hardware related. What piece of hardware is causing that slow post could be anything attached to your motherboard including USB devices etc or even the motherboard itsef.


Edited by zingo156, 24 March 2015 - 10:10 AM.

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#12 illestrate

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Posted 24 March 2015 - 04:43 PM

system clock speed is multiplied to reach the high level frequency it processes at 139mhz x36multiplier or whatever. First thing Id recommend running a Hard Drive test using the appropriate software you can find usually its the first thing to go when you notice drastic loading speed differences.  Seagate has its own HD tester but you can google and find your preference I like to use Ghost but I have it on Hirens Boot CD.  When mechanical drives start to degrade you'll notice differences in speed.  Once the processor receives the right on charge it'll switch from soft power to on, it then sends out a signal to all the other devices bios (POST) this is the first black screen you'll load up that'll list specs such as RAM, Processor, BIOS Version where you c an enter commands such as F2, Delete, Boot Order/Options.


Edited by illestrate, 24 March 2015 - 04:48 PM.


#13 jlallen007

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Posted 04 April 2015 - 11:14 AM

Thanks for all your help. Still debugging. Haven't really done anything for a while. Just posting to keep the thread alive. Hard drive test sounds like a good idea. Maybe that's it. I'v been wanting to upgrade to a SSD anyway :-)



#14 zingo156

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Posted 04 April 2015 - 03:19 PM

The hard drive test I prefer to use is MHDD, you can also use the free tool from the drive manufacturer. I will post MHDD instructions in case you want to give that a try:

 

If a hard drive has a smart status warning or the drive is questionable this test may be of use NOTE this test does not work with AHCI or Raid sata operation. It must be done with IDE, ATA, or compatibility mode:

 

Before running this test it would be a good idea to backup any data that you cannot afford to lose. This test uses the hard drive at 100%. If the drive is failing or has problems it is possible for the drive to fail suddenly especially during heavy use as this test will do. It is unlikely but still I recommend backing files up to be safe. Here are the instructions to run the test:

 

The first step will be to burn MHDD to a disc as an image (cd preferably). MHDD Can be found here: http://hddguru.com/software/2005.10.02-MHDD/  Click the Last version of MHDD, CDROM iso-image download and burn this file directly to a disc.

 

TO CHANGE SATA OPERATION: (You may need to use your keyboard arrow keys and enter key if you can not click to change settings).

After burning the disc, restart the laptop and start tapping f2 or f1 or delete right away to get into the bios. There you should see System Configuration, expand that by clicking the + button (or using your arrow keys and enter key). In that list there should be something called Sata operation. (Sata Operation may also be by itself in that first screen list)

Click on sata operation and take note of the current setting to the right it will probably be set to AHCI it will need to be switched back to this after MHDD is done running. Select ATA, compatibility or ide mode and then click apply. Save and exit the bios, or if apply was the only option you can use Ctrl+Alt+Delete to restart.

COMMON BOOT MENU/BIOS keys: https://support.fixmestick.com/hc/en-us/articles/201577043-How-to-get-to-your-Boot-Menu-or-your-BIOS-settings

 

Now with the burned disc in the drive after a restart, start tapping (F12 Dell, Toshiba, Lenovo), (F9 HP), or (Esc HP, Samsung, Sony) on the keyboard (or change your boot options to boot to cd/dvd first). This will bring up the boot options menu. Select cd/dvd/cd-rw drive and hit enter.

If this worked correctly and booted to mhdd you should see a screen that says Microsoft windows 98 startup menu. You can let the timer run out or just hit enter on option (2 . Start computer without SCSI support).

 

Next you should see a new screen with numbers, most of these will not have any device listed behind them but one number should for example on my dell computer number 6 has WDC WD1600BEVT-75A23T0… and at the end a number in white which is the size of the drive.

Example: If your drive is a 500gb I would expect that number in white to be somewhere around 500,107,862,016 or close to. Find the correct drive to test then on the keyboard type the number in front of the drive (in my case it was 6) and then hit enter.

 

Now you should have a screen with MHDD> and a blinking cursor.

Next hit F4 on the keyboard 2 times and this will start scanning the hard drive.

You should be able to see the computer start scanning, each block represents 255 sectors (130560 bytes) on the hard drive. What we are looking for will show up on the right side of the screen.

There is a list on the right which shows numbers:

<3

<10

<50

<150ms

Etc…

 

Anything below the <150ms is a slow sector or a problem sector. Slow sectors <500 or >500 will slow down the computer. If there are a lot of these one after another (several 1000 or more) the drive should probably be replaced. Also if you have any at the end that were marked as UNC this means the drive has uncorrectable errors and the hard drive should probably be replaced.

Basically if you have any sectors that are below <150 (green) let me know and if possible the total number of them.

 

If all of the sectors were ok and fell within the range of:

<3

<10

<50

<150ms

Then the hard drive is ok, if there are only a few that are slow <500 or >500 the hard drive should be ok to use.

 

NOTE: that if there are many slow sectors one after another or you start having error after error the drive is in bad shape and I recommend ending the test. If you have already backed up your data, you can let it run but it may take days or even weeks to finish. To end the test hit the Esc key.


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