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Wiped computer completely but it's still slow


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#1 tkelly1

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Posted 13 March 2015 - 11:19 AM

About a week ago I completely wiped my hard drive and installed Windows 7. I didn't use the CD from my manufacture because I didn't want all of the compaq games/antivirus/junk on it. The windows disc works fine for every other computer it's been installed on. I wiped my computer to resolve slowness and it's pretty much just as slow, maybe 20% better. I'm not sure what else to do for it so any suggestions are appreciated. 


Edited by hamluis, 16 March 2015 - 11:45 AM.
Moved from Win 7 to Internal Hardware - Hamluis.


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#2 mikey11

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Posted 13 March 2015 - 11:43 AM

in my experience that is typically the sign of a failing hard drive,

 

test the drive using the drive manufacturers diagnostic program/tools



#3 tkelly1

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Posted 13 March 2015 - 11:54 AM

I'll try that. 



#4 zingo156

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Posted 13 March 2015 - 11:57 AM

Please download and run speccy, this software will help us determine possible hardware issues as well as software issues:

 

  • Go to Piriform's website, and click the big download.png button.
  • Next, click Download from Piriform.com (the FileHippo link requires an extra click). Or if you want to use a portable version of Speccy (which doesn't require installation), click the builds page link and download the portable version.
  • You will now be asked where you want to save the file. The best place to put it is the Desktop, as it will be easy to find later.
  • After the file finishes downloading, you are ready to run Speccy. If you downloaded the installer, simply double-click on it and follow the prompts until installation is complete. If you downloaded the portable version, you will need to unzip it before use. Right-click the ZIP file and click Extract all. Click Next. Open up the extracted folder and double-click on Speccy.
  • Once inside Speccy, it will look similar to this (with your computer's specifications, of course):
    p22004369.gif
  • Now, at the top, click File > Publish Snapshot
  • You will see the following prompt:
    p22004371.gif
  • Click Yes > then Copy to Clipboard
    p22004372.gif
  • Now, once you are back in the forum topic you are posting in, click the p22004370.gif button. Right-click in the empty space of the Reply box and click Paste. Then, click Add Reply below the Reply box.
  • Congrats! You have just posted your specs!

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#5 RolandJS

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Posted 13 March 2015 - 12:39 PM

Zingo, maybe OP needs a few drivers updated? ...using the advice for that from here of course  :)


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#6 zingo156

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Posted 13 March 2015 - 12:56 PM

Zingo, maybe OP needs a few drivers updated? ...using the advice for that from here of course   :)

Drivers may be needed indeed.


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#7 tkelly1

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Posted 13 March 2015 - 08:21 PM

http://speccy.piriform.com/results/7nZ7dmHs8aDKa6HU0MYskc0



#8 Victoria-Joe

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Posted 14 March 2015 - 02:13 AM

To know whether the drive is failing or not, check the SMART status of the hard drive. And if the results shows that there are bad sectors, then repair your hard disk as well using chkdsk /f command. Also scan your computer with an antivirus utility.



#9 dc3

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Posted 14 March 2015 - 08:47 AM

I wouldn't suggest running a chkdsk at this time.  You need to run a diagnostic test on your hdd.

 

Please download and run SeatTool for Windows.
 
When the website opens scroll down till you find the I Accept button and click on it.
 
If you scroll down below this button you will find instruction for installing this.
 
Once you install this program you will see an image similar to the one below.
 
seagate3_zps1fa1f71c.jpg
 
1.  SeaTools for Windows will search for hdds on your computer.  Please remove any external storage devices connected via USB port.
 
2.  Detected Drives will list the hdd/s found.  Place a check mark in the drive you want to run the scan on.
 
3.  You will see Basic Tests above Detected Drives, move the mouse pointer over this.
 
4.  A menu will open with options for different scans, please click on Long Generic Test
 
5.  This will start the scan.  When the scan is complete you will see the result under Test Status , please post the results in your topic.

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#10 tkelly1

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Posted 15 March 2015 - 01:50 PM

 

It says the test passed & everything is green.



#11 dc3

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Posted 15 March 2015 - 01:55 PM

Please download MiniToolBox, save it to your desktop and run it.
 
Checkmark the following checkboxes:
 
• List last 10 Event Viewer log
• List Installed Programs
• List Users, Partitions and Memory size.
• List Minidump Files
 
Click on Go to start the scan.  Once it is finished highlight the text, copy it and paste it in your next post.

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#12 zingo156

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Posted 16 March 2015 - 07:15 AM

Your hard drive is starting to show signs of failure:

 

05
Attribute name: Reallocated Sectors Count
Real value: 4
Current: 100
Worst: 100
Threshold: 36
Raw Value: 0000000004
Status: Good
 
It should be noted that even if SMART status says "good" it does not always mean the drive is ok. If the Seatools test passed, you can continue to use the drive but I would recommend keeping good backups. A drive that has even 1 reallocated sector is much more likely to fail suddenly than one in perfect condition. If you want to read more about SMART: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S.M.A.R.T. This is the important part to read from your SMART report:
 
05 0x05 Reallocated Sectors Count
12px-Dark_Green_Arrow_Down.svg.png
Count of reallocated sectors. When the hard drive finds a read/write/verification error, it marks that sector as "reallocated" and transfers data to a special reserved area (spare area). This process is also known as remapping, and reallocated sectors are called "remaps". The raw value normally represents a count of the bad sectors that have been found and remapped. Thus, the higher the attribute value, the more sectors the drive has had to reallocate. This allows a drive with bad sectors to continue operation; however, a drive which has had any reallocations at all is significantly more likely to fail in the near future.[3] While primarily used as a metric of the life expectancy of the drive, this number also affects performance. As the count of reallocated sectors increases, the read/write speed tends to become worse because the drive head is forced to seek to the reserved area whenever a remap is accessed. If sequential access speed is critical, the remapped sectors can be manually marked as bad blocks in the file system in order to prevent their use.

Edited by zingo156, 16 March 2015 - 09:50 AM.

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#13 zingo156

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Posted 16 March 2015 - 07:24 AM

A few things to mention: after a clean install windows may feel slow while doing updates, there will likely be many updates to do. The AMD E-300 which is in your computer can seem slow doing cpu heavy tasks. I would finish all windows updates and see if it runs any smoother.


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#14 dc3

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Posted 16 March 2015 - 09:42 AM

@zingo156

 

I never have and never will even suggest that I know it all.  But in this instance I have to disagree with you.

 

The Speccy shows that the hdd is a Seagate.  They ran the SeaTools for Windows, the long test, and it passed.

 

Reallocation Event Count These are usually current pending sector counts transferred to a good spare sector.  The Uncorrectable Sector Count and the Current Pending Sector Count are 0 (zero).

 

I'm not seeing anything definitive pointing to a hdd failure.


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#15 dc3

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Posted 16 March 2015 - 10:07 AM



About a week ago I completely wiped my hard drive and installed Windows 7. I didn't use the CD from my manufacture because I didn't want all of the compaq games/antivirus/junk on it. The windows disc works fine for every other computer it's been installed on. I wiped my computer to resolve slowness and it's pretty much just as slow, maybe 20% better. I'm not sure what else to do for it so any suggestions are appreciated. 

I don't see any mention of the installation of the drivers needed after a fresh installation of Windows.  Did you download and install the drivers from HP?

 

Please post the model of this HP Compaq.

 

Since this is a fresh installation after wiping the hdd it's probably safe to say that this is a hardware problem.  So far there doesn't appear to be a problem with the hdd.  

 

Please run Memtest86 to determine if there is a problem with your RAM.  If you have more than one module, remove one and run the computer on the one.  If there are no problems remove it and place it in the other slot to make sure there isn't a problem with a slot.  

 

For the best results with Memtest86 you should only test one module at a time.  You should allow the test to make seven passes.

 

 

 
 
 
1)  Please download the Memtest86 Pre-Compiled Bootable ISO file.
 
2)  Unzip the downloaded memtest86 file.  You will need a program like 7-Zip to unzip this file.
 
3) Intructions for using the 7-Zip can be see in the video below.
 
 
 
4)  Inside, you will find the memtest86 file.
 
5)  Place a blank CD or DVD in the tray of your optical drive and close the tray.
 
6)  After you have downloaded the ISO image you want to burn right click on the Start orb, then choose Windows Explorer.
 
7)  When Explorer opens click on Downloads in the left pane.  Scroll down till you find the ISO file you want and double click on it.  Click on Burn Disk Image.
 
8)  In the image below you will see Disk burner:, this should be set to the optical drive you want to use.  Click on Verify disc after burning if you want to Windows to verity the disc image after burn.  Click on burn.
 
burndiskimage1_zpsb502b181.png
 
9)  In the image below you can see that the green progress bar, when the image is finished burning the bar will be filled.
 
burndiskimage2_zps17a9d6ff.png
 
10)  After the image has completed being burned click on Close
 
 
11) Once the CD is created, boot from it, and memtest will automatically start to run.  
 
Please note:  It may be neccessary to change the boot order in the BIOS so the CD/DVD-ROM is the first device in the boot order and the hdd second.
 
Each pass consists of 8 tests, it is suggested that you run at least 7 passes, this will take several hours, you may find it simpler to let it run overnight.  The longer you run the passes the more comprehensive the results will be.
 
If you are running multiple modules and have a failure, remove all but one module and test it separately, continue this with each module till you find the one that failed.  
 
When you discern that a module is good, use it to test each slot to be sure there isn't a problem with one of them.
 
When the test is complete a display similar to the one below will appear.  Note the locations of the Pass and Errors, any Error is indicative of a failed module.
 
memtest1_zps7be717f5.png
 
==========
 
If this Compaq is a desktop as the Speccy suggests, you should check the rail voltages to see if they are within proper tolerances.
 

 
Reading and Testing Desktop PSU Rail Voltages
 
Caution: Please read the following before continuing.
 
 
* Since it will be necessary for your computer to be on during this procedure, you need to be aware that you will be working with live 12Volt DC potentials, which if handled improperly may lead to electrical shock. 
 
* There are electronics inside the case that are very susceptible to electrostatic discharges. To protect your computer, touch the metal of the case to discharge yourself of any electrostatic charges before touching any of the components inside.
 
* If you are not comfortable doing this procedure, then I would suggest that you not use this tutorial. The risks involved are minimal, but are there nevertheless. Anyone who uses this tutorial will be doing so at their own risk.
 
 
There are two devices commonly used to read the rail voltages: a PSU tester, and a multimeter. 
 
The PSU tester is the easiest to use since all that is necessary is to plug the different connectors into the tester and read the results on the LCD display. The problem with most of these is that they only perform a pass/fail test.  They will not provide you with actual voltage readings.
 
There are a variety of multiple meters, but this tutorial will address Analog and Digital multimeters. The advantage of these meters is that you will be able to obtain accurate real time voltage readings.
 
For those of you who wish to know more about multimeters there is an excellent article in Wikipedia.
 
 
Analog Multimeter
 
th_analogedited.jpg
 
 
An Analog multimeter is a little more complicated to use. Both Analog and Digital multimeters need to be set to the appropriate voltage, but with an Analog multimeter, you will need to choose the voltage range and must read the proper scale. 
 
The Analog multimeter uses a needle display which moves from 0 across the scale until it reaches the voltage being tested. This multimeter has five major linear divisions with multiple scales to read a variety of ranges. An example would be three different ranges. The first is graduated in increments of 0 through 5, the second, 0 through 10, and the third, 0 through 25. Each of these ranges are subdivided into divisions that are graduated into tenths. In order to read 12 volts the 0 through 25 range would be the appropriate one. 
 
Because DC voltage has positive and negative potentials this device is polar sensitive, this means that if you reverse the two probes when reading a positive DC voltage it will read as a negative voltage. This is actually necessary to read negative DC voltages. The two probes are differentiated by their color, Black (negative), and Red (positive). To read a positive DC voltage, the correct probes must be used with their corresponding potentials (positive to positive and negative to negative). 
 
With the probes being used normally to read a negative DC voltage, the needle moves from the 0 to the left, "pegging" the needle. By reversing the probes you can properly read the negative voltages.
 
Digital Multimeter
 
th_digitalmeteredited.jpg
 
 
The Digital multimeter (DMM) is much simpler to use. As was mentioned previously, you will need to set the appropriate voltage. One of the advantages is that the DMM has an LCD display with a numeric readout, so there are not any multiple scales to read. Another advantage is that most DMMs are autoranging when reading voltages, which means that you will not need to set the range with these DMMs. A DMM will read both positive and negative DC voltages and display them correctly. When reading a negative voltage, a minus sign will appear on the display before the numeric value. This still is a polar sensitive device, so you will still need to use the positive and negative probes with their corresponding potentials. 
 
There are five different DC rail voltages which are color coded. The Black wires are always negative.
 
Yellow +12VDC
 
Blue -12VDC
 
Red +5VDC
 
White -5VDC
 
Orange +3.3VDC
 
There are only three voltages that can be measured easily without disconnecting the 20/24 pin connector from the motherboard: +12V, +5V, and +3.3V.
 
The +12V and +5V voltages can be read from a four pin Molex power connector.
 
Four pin Molex power connector
 
th_250px-Molex_female_connector.jpg
 
 
The same voltages can be taken from a four pin SATA power connector, but in order to read the +3.3V you will need to read this from a five pin SATA power connector as seen below.
 
Five pin SATA power connector.
 
th_sata-power-cable.jpg
 
To read these voltages you will need to insert the Black (-) probe into any of the black  sockets, and insert the Red (+) probe in the different colored voltage sockets.   To read the voltages from a SATA power connector it is easiest to insert the probes into the bac k of the connector where the wires enter.  Unfortunately the sockets of the modular SATA power connectors are not accessible from the back, so the readings will need to be made from the socket side.  Some probes are going to be too large to fit in these sockets, so you may need to insert a piece of wire into the socket of which you want to read the voltage of and place the probe on this for your reading.  To reduce the potential of creating a short I would suggest taking the ground potential from another connector so that the two wires will remain physically separated.
 
Caution:  It is very important to make sure that you don't allow the two probes to touch each other when taking the voltage readings.  This will cause a short which could damage the PSU or other components.
 
To get accurate readings of the rail voltages it is important that there be a load on the PSU. In order to do this I would suggest downloading Prime95 and run the Just Stress Test for this purpose. This program was designed to be used by overclockers to put a full load on the RAM and CPU to determine the stability of their overclocking.  Because of this it will put stress on the CPU and RAM which will create higher than normal temperatures.  For this reason I would suggest not running this program any longer than is necessary.  I would also suggest that an inspection be made of the interior of the case to make sure that there isn’t an accumulation of dust which would impede adequate cooling.  Pay special attention to the heat sink and fan assembly on the CPU.  If there is a dedicated graphics card with a fan installed on it, look at this fan as well.      
 
 
Readings should not have variances larger than +/- five percent.  
 
Maximum.........Minimum
12.6V.................11.4V
5.25V.................4.75V
3.47V.................3.14V

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