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SMPS May be the culprit ?


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#1 Newbie1011

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Posted 21 October 2014 - 08:37 PM

Hello

 

I was having trouble in booting my PC since i upgraded my Cabinet and CPU from Athlon II X 4 620 to Phenom 1090T. Earlier there was no trouble

I had to remove all the power cables from the motherboard during the upgrade

 

 

Although i took all care during refitting, still i faced booting problems wherein the system would go to bios every time i booted  and i would have to manually exit from it without any changes.

It would then randomly freeze on the windows animation screen just before the keyboard numlock caps lock and scroll lock keys flash

If the keys would flash, the OS would boot.

If it froze, i would have to restart the computer several times before it ultimately booted.

 

I then pressed all the power cables once again on the motherboard and the input Power cable in the SMPS

 

Since I have done that, the system is booting and running normally although I feel that that sometimes when there is heavy graphs display, the system is sluggish

 

Is there anyway i can check if the cpu is getting sufficient power when i feel that it is sluggish?

I have never overclocked any of the components

I do not play games on the system.It is mainly used to run stock market software which include display of graphs.

 

Details of my system are

 

Phenom 1090T

Crosshair IV Formula

2 X 4GB DDR3 1600 Corsair Vengeance RAM

7770 1GB Sapphire GPU

1 500GB & 1 250 GB HDD

Windows 7 Ultimate 64 Bit

Coolermaster Advanced II Cabinet

Corsair HX 620 SMPS

 

 

I am worried that May be my SMPS is failing or my incoming Power cable is failing.

 

Is there anything I should worry about ?

 

Thanks for advising


Edited by Newbie1011, 21 October 2014 - 08:57 PM.


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#2 Torvald

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Posted 22 October 2014 - 11:04 AM

As far as your previous booting trouble, when you upgraded your motherboard, did you do a fresh install of Windows on your hard drive, or did you simply hook up the old drive to the new motherboard?


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#3 dc3

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Posted 22 October 2014 - 02:41 PM

What Torvald is eluding to is that if you just replaced the motherboard and CPU without running sysrprep first your hard drive will see the identifiers in the new motherboard along with those that were recognized with the other motherboard and may not boot.  Even it it does there is a very good chance it will begin to fail.

 

This can be avoided by doing the following.

 

If you run sysprep on the hdd with Windows 7 or 8.1 before using it with another motherboard you should be be able to boot from it without any complications. You want to remove all hardware identifiers from the hdd, this generalizes the drive.
 
Click on the Start orb, then type cmd in the Search box.
 
cmd will appear under Programs above the search box, right click on it and choose Run as administrator.
 
This will open the Elevated Command Prompt.
 
In the Elevated Command Prompt type in CD C:\Windows\System32\Sysprep, then 
use the command: "sysprep /generalize /oobe /shutdown"
Don't power the drive back on until it's in the other computer.
Note: You'll want to install the motherboard chipset drivers after moving the drive.

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#4 Newbie1011

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Posted 22 October 2014 - 06:23 PM

I am sorry I have created this confusion

 

I have NOT changed my motherboard

I have simply swapped my processor from Athlon II X 4 620 to Phenom X 6 1090T

The motherboard and all other hardware remained the same (The cabinet was also changed)

 

I have not done any installation of windows although the system did download some drivers on its own when i first booted after the swapping of the CPU

 

In view of this clarification, please recommend if any of the above steps are necessary

 

Thanks for advising



#5 mjd420nova

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Posted 22 October 2014 - 08:16 PM

Any changes to the hardware will be noticed by the BIOS and the OS system programs.  The cure is to have the original OS disk and do a repair of the OS.  The identifier on the disk and the harddrive must match or you're stuck.  I do suspect that in the removal of the cables for the hard drive created an open on one pin or a pin is bent.  Some can even be put on upside-down. 



#6 Newbie1011

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Posted 22 October 2014 - 08:25 PM

Any changes to the hardware will be noticed by the BIOS and the OS system programs.  The cure is to have the original OS disk and do a repair of the OS.  The identifier on the disk and the harddrive must match or you're stuck.  I do suspect that in the removal of the cables for the hard drive created an open on one pin or a pin is bent.  Some can even be put on upside-down. 

Hello

 

Are you sure that its a HDD problem ?

I am able to read both my HDD perfectly so if any of the pins would have been bent or the cables upside down, the detection of the HDD would not have been possible

 

Will wait for some more experienced member to respond before going for a OS repair

 

Thanks for advising



#7 dc3

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Posted 23 October 2014 - 07:55 AM

Changing the CPU will not effect the operating system.  The identifiers mentioned pertain to the chipset which is part of the motherboard.  As long as you don't change that you shouldn't have any problems.

 

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.


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#8 Newbie1011

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Posted 23 October 2014 - 08:03 AM

Changing the CPU will not effect the operating system.  The identifiers mentioned pertain to the chipset which is part of the motherboard.  As long as you don't change that you shouldn't have any problems.

 

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Thanks a lot for the clarification

 

I dont tinker with the hardware unless it is absolutely necessary.

But my only worry is that in case the CPU is not getting sufficient power, it may get damaged in the long run and its no longer under warranty.

 

Is there any software you can recommend to monitor the CPU voltage correctly when i find that the computer is sluggish?

 

Is CPUID HW monitor a good choice?

 

Thanks for advising


Edited by Newbie1011, 23 October 2014 - 08:09 AM.


#9 dc3

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Posted 23 October 2014 - 08:28 AM

CPUID will provide you with the core voltage, but that's it as far as voltages go.

 

What really want to take a look at is the rail voltages of the PSU.  If you have a multimeter and know how to use it I can provide you with a tutorial for checking the rail voltages.  If not, you can purchase a PSU tester Newegg for about $5.00 plus shipping and tax.


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#10 Newbie1011

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Posted 23 October 2014 - 08:41 AM

Hello

 

Is the core voltage of no use?

 

I have access to a Multimeter

 

I shall be grateful if you could give me the link for the tutorial

Let me see if I can actually muster the courage to do it as I am quite nervous opening my computer !

 

Thanks for advising


Edited by Newbie1011, 23 October 2014 - 08:42 AM.


#11 dc3

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Posted 23 October 2014 - 09:02 AM

 
Reading and Testing Desktop PSU Rail Voltages
 
Caution: Please read this before continuing.
 
 
* Since it will be necessary for your computer to be on during this procedure, you need to be aware that you will be working with live 12Volt DC potentials, which if handled improperly may lead to electrical shock. 
 
* There are electronics inside the case that are very susceptible to electrostatic discharges. To protect your computer, touch the metal of the case to discharge yourself of any electrostatic charges before touching any of the components inside.
 
* If you are not comfortable doing this procedure, then I would suggest that you not use this tutorial. The risks involved are minimal, but are there nevertheless. Anyone who uses this tutorial will be doing so at their own risk.
 
 
There are two devices commonly used to read the rail voltages: a PSU tester, and a multimeter. 
 
The PSU tester is the easiest to use since all that is necessary is to plug the different connectors into the tester and read the results on the LCD display. The problem with most of these is that they only perform a pass/fail test.  They will not provide you with actual voltage readings.
 
There are a variety of multiple meters, but this tutorial will address Analog and Digital multimeters. The advantage of these meters is that you will be able to obtain accurate real time voltage readings.
 
For those of you who wish to know more about multimeters there is an excellent article in Wikipedia.
 
 
Analog Multimeter
 
th_analogedited.jpg
 
 
An Analog multimeter is a little more complicated to use. Both Analog and Digital multimeters need to be set to the appropriate voltage, but with an Analog multimeter, you will need to choose the voltage range and must read the proper scale. 
 
The Analog multimeter uses a needle display which moves from 0 across the scale until it reaches the voltage being tested. This multimeter has five major linear divisions with multiple scales to read a variety of ranges. An example would be three different ranges. The first is graduated in increments of 0 through 5, the second, 0 through 10, and the third, 0 through 25. Each of these ranges are subdivided into divisions that are graduated into tenths. In order to read 12 volts the 0 through 25 range would be the appropriate one. 
 
Because DC voltage has positive and negative potentials this device is polar sensitive, this means that if you reverse the two probes when reading a positive DC voltage it will read as a negative voltage. This is actually necessary to read negative DC voltages. The two probes are differentiated by their color, Black (negative), and Red (positive). To read a positive DC voltage, the correct probes must be used with their corresponding potentials (positive to positive and negative to negative). 
 
With the probes being used normally to read a negative DC voltage, the needle moves from the 0 to the left, "pegging" the needle. By reversing the probes you can properly read the negative voltages.
 
Digital Multimeter
 
th_digitalmeteredited.jpg
 
 
The Digital multimeter (DMM) is much simpler to use. As was mentioned previously, you will need to set the appropriate voltage. One of the advantages is that the DMM has an LCD display with a numeric readout, so there are not any multiple scales to read. Another advantage is that most DMMs are autoranging when reading voltages, which means that you will not need to set the range with these DMMs. A DMM will read both positive and negative DC voltages and display them correctly. When reading a negative voltage, a minus sign will appear on the display before the numeric value. This still is a polar sensitive device, so you will still need to use the positive and negative probes with their corresponding potentials. 
 
There are five different DC rail voltages which are color coded. The Black wires are always negative.
 
Yellow +12VDC
 
Blue -12VDC
 
Red +5VDC
 
White -5VDC
 
Orange +3.3VDC
 
There are only three voltages that can be measured easily without disconnecting the 20/24 pin connector from the motherboard: +12V, +5V, and +3.3V.
 
The +12V and +5V voltages can be read from a four pin Molex power connector.
 
Four pin Molex power connector
 
th_250px-Molex_female_connector.jpg
 
 
The same voltages can be taken from a four pin SATA power connector, but in order to read the +3.3V you will need to read this from a five pin SATA power connector as seen below.
 
Five pin SATA power connector.
 
th_sata-power-cable.jpg
 
To read these voltages you will need to insert the Black (-) probe into any of the black  sockets, and insert the Red (+) probe in the different colored voltage sockets.   To read the voltages from a SATA power connector it is easiest to insert the probes into the bac k of the connector where the wires enter.  Unfortunately the sockets of the modular SATA power connectors are not accessible from the back, so the readings will need to be made from the socket side.  Some probes are going to be too large to fit in these sockets, so you may need to insert a piece of wire into the socket of which you want to read the voltage of and place the probe on this for your reading.  To reduce the potential of creating a short I would suggest taking the ground potential from another connector so that the two wires will remain physically separated.
 
Caution:  It is very important to make sure that you don't allow the two probes to touch each other when taking the voltage readings.  This will cause a short which could damage the PSU or other components.
 
To get accurate readings of the rail voltages it is important that there be a load on the PSU. In order to do this I would suggest downloading Prime95 and run the Just Stress Test for this purpose. This program was designed to be used by overclockers to put a full load on the RAM and CPU to determine the stability of their overclocking.  Because of this it will put stress on the CPU and RAM which will create higher than normal temperatures.  For this reason I would suggest not running this program any longer than is necessary.  I would also suggest that an inspection be made of the interior of the case to make sure that there isn’t an accumulation of dust which would impede adequate cooling.  Pay special attention to the heat sink and fan assembly on the CPU.  If there is a dedicated graphics card with a fan installed on it, look at this fan as well.      
 
 
Readings should not have variances larger than +/- five percent.  
 
Maximum.........Minimum
12.6V.................11.4V
5.25V.................4.75V
3.47V.................3.14V

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