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Power Supply starts then stops

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#1 dfeteau


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Posted 08 July 2014 - 09:46 AM

It rained last week and I got some water in my basement. My machine was on the floor.  I believe some of the water got into the power supply (XION 700W) and so I replaced it (Corsair 600W). Both PS's are modular and so I didn't replace all the power connectors.  I have an Asus P6T motherboard (yes i know its old) that has an on-board power switch that turns on when it receives power. When I installed the new PS, that on-board switch lit up but when i try to power up the machine, both the PS and CPU starts for a moment, then just stops.  It doesn't look like anything else got wet and I can't tell if the motherboard was fried.


Does anyone have any thoughts?

Edited by hamluis, 08 July 2014 - 11:04 AM.
Moved from Win 7 to Internal Hardware - Hamluis.

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#2 dc3


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Posted 08 July 2014 - 10:57 AM

Follow the instructions below to determine if the problem is with the motherboard or the PSU.  If you have a case fan it will run if the PSU is good.  If it stays on then it will not be the PSU.  Please note that this involves removing the 24 pin PSU connector from the motherboard, so there will be no power except for the CPU 12V connector which is separate from the 24 pin connector.


Since the power button is initiating the start of the PSU you should look at the motherboard if the PSU doesn't shut down during this test.


The purpose of this procedure is to bypass the motherboard to test the PSU.
When a computer begins the boot process the motherboard initiates the start up of the PSU. Because of this it is difficult to determine whether the problem is with the motherboard or the PSU when a computer shows no signs of starting up. The purpose of the procedure is to determine if the problem is with the motherboard or the PSU.  For safety purposes please follow the instructions step by step.
Caution:  Since it will be necessary for your computer to be on during this procedure, you need to be aware that you will be working with live 12Volt DC potentials, which if handled improperly may lead to electrical shock.  The risks are minimal, but are there nevertheless.  If you are uncomfortable doing this procedure I would suggest  you not try this.  Anyone using this tutorial will be doing so at their own risk. 
There are electronic components inside the case that are very susceptible to electrostatic discharges. To protect your computer, touch the metal of the case to discharge yourself of any electrostatic charge before touching any of the components inside.
This test is for ATX form factor PSUs. Some manufacturers use non-ATX form factor PSUs with 20/24 pin connectors that do not have the same pinout as a ATX form factor PSUs.
Notice:  Dell desktop computers with the Pentium ll and lll porcessors with 20 pin connectors, the Precision 410 and the Dimensions 8100 with the 24 pin connector all have non-ATX form factor pinouts.
First, shutdown your computer. Then unplug the power cable going into your computer.  To reduce the possibility of any shock press and hold the power button for thirty seconds to discharge any capacitors still holding a charge.
The connector of the PSU which connects to the motherboard is readily recognizable by the large number of wires in the bundle.  To disconnect it you will need to press on the plastic clip to disengage it and then pull the connector up and away from the motherboard.  Please take notice of the location of the locking tab and the notch on the socket of the motherboard, this will only connect one way as it is keyed.  This wire bundle will have a memory of the way it has been installed and will want to bend back that direction, you may have to play around with it to find a position that the connector will stay in the same position while you run the test.
From the top left to right the pins are 13-24, the bottom from left to right are 1-12.
Below are the pinouts for the 20 and 24 pin ATX form factor connectors.
Please notice that there are PSUs with 24 pin and 20 pin connectors, the location of the green wire in the 24 pin connector is #16, and the green wire in the 20 pin connector is #14.  If you look at the connector with socket side facing you and the clip on the top the number one pin will be on the bottom left corner.  This makes the pin out for the 24 pin connector from left to right 13-24 on top, and 1-12 on the bottom.  The pin out for the 20 pin connector from left to right is 11-20 on top , and 1-10 on the bottom. If you look at the connectors you notice that these are sockets that fit over the pins on the motherboard where the PSU cable attaches, this is where you will place the jumper.  For a jumper you will need a piece of solid wire about the size of a paper clip (20-22 awg), preferably a wire with insulation.  It will need to be large enough to fit firmly into the socket so that it will not need to be held in place while testing.  You are at risk of electrical shock if you are holding the jumper when you power up the PSU.  Insert one end of the jumper into the socket of the Green wire, and insert the other end into the socket of any Black wire.
Once the jumper is in place plug the cord back in. If the PSU is working properly the case fans, optical drives, hdds, and LEDs should power up and remain on.  I would suggest that you not  leave this connected any longer than is necessary for safety purposes.
To reconnect the 20/4 pin connector unplug the power cord, remove the jumper, and reconnect the connector. Take a moment at this time to make sure that nothing has been dislodged inside the case.

Edited by dc3, 08 July 2014 - 10:59 AM.

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