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Computer turns on, has black screen then shuts off after around 10 seconds!


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#1 Generally

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 02:47 PM

Ive had a problem recently with my computer. Whenever in use, especially during games, it would shut off from what I think is over heating. It would turn on after I tried booting it though, but now it does not even boot fully (only for around 10 to 15 seconds) and the screen is completely black. Ive swapped the graphics card which didnt do anything, tried booting with 1 stick of ram to see if any individual ram stick is causing this issue and that didnt do anything. I even removed the psu and tested it to see if that was the problem and the psu worked fine. Im really confused as to what could be causing it and how to solve this. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

I posted a video showing the issue with my computer: (sorry for the bad quality and awkward angle. I recorded it with my phone)

Additional information:
Processor: i5 2500k
Graphics card: ati radeon 6870
Ram: 4gb
Hdd: 500gb


Edited by hamluis, 08 July 2014 - 07:27 AM.
Moved from Win 7 to Internal Hardware - Hamluis.


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#2 dc3

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 03:03 PM

Usually when a computer shuts down due to overheating the computer can be turned back on after is has cooled sufficiently.  But if the CPU has been damaged by overheating the computer may not start.  If the thermal compound between the CPU and the heat sink is dried out or in sufficient the CPU could overheat rapidly enough to shut down this quickly.

 

Have you tried booting into Safe Mode?

 

Can you enter the BIOS?

 

The video doesn't show much detail other that it appears to be a desktop.  Is this a custom build?


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#3 zingo156

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 03:39 PM

With a speaker plugged into the main board, remove all ram, power on, do you get a post fault beep code? Did you try 1 single stick of ram in all of the ram slots? You may have a bad stick or bad slot.

 

Try resetting the cmos, either use the jumper, or unplug the computer from the wall, push the power button (to drain the psu caps), then remove the cmos button cell battery and wait 30 seconds. Put the cmos button battery back in, plug the computer back in and re-test.

 

Unplug all non essential hardware, a single bad hardware component may cause a no post. Power on using only the mainboard, cpu, cpu cooler, 1 stick of ram in 1 slot, psu and use onboard video if you have it, if you do not have onboard put the video card in.


Edited by zingo156, 07 July 2014 - 03:41 PM.

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#4 zingo156

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 03:42 PM

Also how did you test the psu? I never trust psu testers as most do not put a load on the psu, often psu's voltages appear fine without any load but then show obvious problems when under load.


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#5 zingo156

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 03:54 PM

Another cause of this issue could be broken or shorting usb ports, visually inspect all usb ports for damage or shorting pins.


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#6 dc3

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 04:13 PM

When ever you clear the CMOS you should open the control panel under Date and Time and make sure that they are correctly set.


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#7 Generally

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 04:33 PM

Also how did you test the psu? I never trust psu testers as most do not put a load on the psu, often psu's voltages appear fine without any load but then show obvious problems when under load.


Hey! Thank you for such a fast response. I tested the psu by plugging a paper clip into one of the green wire and one of the black wires to simulate the motherboard. I had a case fan plugged in which was powered by the psu. This method was instructed by a website I previoudly visited. Thanks for the response!

#8 Generally

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 04:39 PM

Usually when a computer shuts down due to overheating the computer can be turned back on after is has cooled sufficiently.  But if the CPU has been damaged by overheating the computer may not start.  If the thermal compound between the CPU and the heat sink is dried out or in sufficient the CPU could overheat rapidly enough to shut down this quickly.
 
Have you tried booting into Safe Mode?
 
Can you enter the BIOS?
 
The video doesn't show much detail other that it appears to be a desktop.  Is this a custom build?


Thanks for the quick response as well. This computer was purchased from cyberpowerpc with the components of my choice. I am unable to boot from safemode because the screen shows nothing and the comouter shuts off after 10 seconds. Thank you for the reply!

#9 dc3

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 04:43 PM

That test will only determine whether there is a problem with the motherboard initiating the start of the PSU.  It will not determine if there is a problem with the rail voltages.  If you want to find out if there is a problem with the rail voltages use the instructions below.

 

It would be useful if you were to answer the questions I posted.

 

 
Reading and Testing Desktop PSU Rail Voltages
 
Caution: Please read this before continuing.
 
 
* Since it will be necessary for your computer to be on during this procedure, you need to be aware that you will be working with live 12Volt DC potentials, which if handled improperly may lead to electrical shock. 
 
* There are electronics inside the case that are very susceptible to electrostatic discharges. To protect your computer, touch the metal of the case to discharge yourself of any electrostatic charges before touching any of the components inside.
 
* If you are not comfortable doing this procedure, then I would suggest that you not use this tutorial. The risks involved are minimal, but are there nevertheless. Anyone who uses this tutorial will be doing so at their own risk.
 
 
There are two devices commonly used to read the rail voltages: a PSU tester, and a multimeter. 
 
The PSU tester is the easiest to use since all that is necessary is to plug the different connectors into the tester and read the results on the LCD display. The problem with most of these is that they only perform a pass/fail test.  They will not provide you with actual voltage readings.
 
There are a variety of multiple meters, but this tutorial will address Analog and Digital multimeters. The advantage of these meters is that you will be able to obtain accurate real time voltage readings.
 
For those of you who wish to know more about multimeters there is an excellent article in Wikipedia.
 
 
Analog Multimeter
 
th_analogedited.jpg
 
 
An Analog multimeter is a little more complicated to use. Both Analog and Digital multimeters need to be set to the appropriate voltage, but with an Analog multimeter, you will need to choose the voltage range and must read the proper scale. 
 
The Analog multimeter uses a needle display which moves from 0 across the scale until it reaches the voltage being tested. This multimeter has five major linear divisions with multiple scales to read a variety of ranges. An example would be three different ranges. The first is graduated in increments of 0 through 5, the second, 0 through 10, and the third, 0 through 25. Each of these ranges are subdivided into divisions that are graduated into tenths. In order to read 12 volts the 0 through 25 range would be the appropriate one. 
 
Because DC voltage has positive and negative potentials this device is polar sensitive, this means that if you reverse the two probes when reading a positive DC voltage it will read as a negative voltage. This is actually necessary to read negative DC voltages. The two probes are differentiated by their color, Black (negative), and Red (positive). To read a positive DC voltage, the correct probes must be used with their corresponding potentials (positive to positive and negative to negative). 
 
With the probes being used normally to read a negative DC voltage, the needle moves from the 0 to the left, "pegging" the needle. By reversing the probes you can properly read the negative voltages.
 
Digital Multimeter
 
th_digitalmeteredited.jpg
 
 
The Digital multimeter (DMM) is much simpler to use. As was mentioned previously, you will need to set the appropriate voltage. One of the advantages is that the DMM has an LCD display with a numeric readout, so there are not any multiple scales to read. Another advantage is that most DMMs are autoranging when reading voltages, which means that you will not need to set the range with these DMMs. A DMM will read both positive and negative DC voltages and display them correctly. When reading a negative voltage, a minus sign will appear on the display before the numeric value. This still is a polar sensitive device, so you will still need to use the positive and negative probes with their corresponding potentials. 
 
There are five different DC rail voltages which are color coded. The Black wires are always negative.
 
Yellow +12VDC
 
Blue -12VDC
 
Red +5VDC
 
White -5VDC
 
Orange +3.3VDC
 
There are only three voltages that can be measured easily without disconnecting the 20/24 pin connector from the motherboard: +12V, +5V, and +3.3V.
 
The +12V and +5V voltages can be read from a four pin Molex power connector.
 
Four pin Molex power connector
 
th_250px-Molex_female_connector.jpg
 
 
The same voltages can be taken from a four pin SATA power connector, but in order to read the +3.3V you will need to read this from a five pin SATA power connector as seen below.
 
Five pin SATA power connector.
 
th_sata-power-cable.jpg
 
To read these voltages you will need to insert the Black (-) probe into any of the black  sockets, and insert the Red (+) probe in the different colored voltage sockets.   To read the voltages from a SATA power connector it is easiest to insert the probes into the bac k of the connector where the wires enter.  Unfortunately the sockets of the modular SATA power connectors are not accessible from the back, so the readings will need to be made from the socket side.  Some probes are going to be too large to fit in these sockets, so you may need to insert a piece of wire into the socket of which you want to read the voltage of and place the probe on this for your reading.  To reduce the potential of creating a short I would suggest taking the ground potential from another connector so that the two wires will remain physically separated.
 
Caution:  It is very important to make sure that you don't allow the two probes to touch each other when taking the voltage readings.  This will cause a short which could damage the PSU or other components.
 
To get accurate readings of the rail voltages it is important that there be a load on the PSU. In order to do this I would suggest downloading Prime95 and run the Just Stress Test for this purpose. This program was designed to be used by overclockers to put a full load on the RAM and CPU to determine the stability of their overclocking.  Because of this it will put stress on the CPU and RAM which will create higher than normal temperatures.  For this reason I would suggest not running this program any longer than is necessary.  I would also suggest that an inspection be made of the interior of the case to make sure that there isn’t an accumulation of dust which would impede adequate cooling.  Pay special attention to the heat sink and fan assembly on the CPU.  If there is a dedicated graphics card with a fan installed on it, look at this fan as well.      
 
 
Readings should not have variances larger than +/- five percent.  
 
Maximum.........Minimum
12.6V.................11.4V
5.25V.................4.75V
3.47V.................3.14V

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#10 zingo156

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 05:04 PM

Yup, as dc3 mentioned, the paper clip trick will only force the psu to turn on, it doesn't rule out power supply problems. Fans are generally a bad way to test a psu as far as working or not goes. Fans will often operate on nearly any voltage, they will just move slower or faster on the power being supplied...

 

Follow the instructions dc3 posted to test the power supply, if that seems like too much to do, buy a new power supply to test with or borrow a friends.


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