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Black screen problem


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#1 lythh

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 12:53 AM

Hi,

So i got this black screen on my computer.. It wont show me mu boot or bios, it Will make a sound from Windows starting up. And it is not my monitor cuz i plugged my xbox on it to see if it works. Ok,so Let me start from the beginning from where it started to happen.

So what happend was i right clicked on my screen and clicked copy, but then the copy thing didnt go away from my screen.
So i restarted my pc and then the black screen started happening, i have done everything i could.
Took everything out and put it back in and it still doesnt work, the fan from my videocard is spinning so i know it is getting power.
I hope someone knows the problem

Greetz

Specs
Motherboard: rampage 2 extreme
Videocard: xfx 5970 black edition
Processor: intel i7 930
Ram: 8gb crosair dominators
Powersupply: be quiet! 1000watt

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#2 ElfBane

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 09:57 AM

The video card may have failed. Remove it and use the MB's integrated video out and see if you have video then. If so, then the vid card is bad.



#3 dc3

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 10:38 AM

It would help if you post the make and model of this computer or at least the operating system.

 

If this is Windows 7 or below try booting into Safe Mode.

 

To do this press the power button to start the computer and immediately start tapping the F8 key until the Advanced Boot Options opens.

 

You will need to use the up or down key to navigate to Safe Mode with Networking, the press Enter to make your selection.

 

Safe mode uses a native driver for the graphics in Safe Mode, so if this is a driver problem this will work.


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#4 lythh

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 10:50 AM

Uhm there is no integrated video on my Motherboard and this is a self build pc so there is no model and i wont see the safe mode option cuz like i said i a black screen al the way i dont see the boot menu or anything like that just the sound of Windows launching

#5 dc3

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 11:18 AM

You still have not posted the operating system you are running.


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#6 lythh

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 11:20 AM

Windows 7 but i dont think that will help much

#7 dc3

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 11:33 AM

It looks like the video card has failed.


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#8 synergy513

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 12:11 PM

you could try a different port on your 5970 or try using it in a different PC so that could eliminate some variables

 

windows 7 is a tricky one with drivers, it sometimes forces them and overwirtes your oem drivers. it is a sad thing when that goes awry. but most of the time on older cards it doesn't lead to malfunction, but the new stuff is a crapshoot.

 

i always keep an old  card on standby in case i get a fault with my original card.  i had to use it once in my old xp machine and it went ok as i used it for a few days, then re-installed my regular card and all was well.


Edited by synergy513, 28 June 2014 - 12:11 PM.

Moore's Law : 4d Graph in Progress


#9 lythh

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 12:16 PM

Ye i have put my card on a different port on my board but that didnt help and like a month ago i gave my old parts to my friend cuz his pc died so ye. xD
But i just think mine died cuz as far as i kniw everything works except for the black screen. And i was saving for a New pc, so i guess i start with a New card. :)
Thnx for the help

#10 synergy513

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 12:23 PM

i mean a different dvi port on the back of it.

 

that is a shame, the 5970 was so sweet for so many years, and still is , that was one breakthrough 5xxxx series.

 

also, i have to ask, what about the power supply?  you can try a different psu perhaps?  those are more likely to crap out than a card.  unless of course you was tweaking hertz like crazy with the card.


Edited by synergy513, 28 June 2014 - 12:26 PM.

Moore's Law : 4d Graph in Progress


#11 lythh

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 12:34 PM

Oh ye i did that aswell the other dvi

Tried everything so far, thats why i posted on the forum to see other ppl's input.
And i only have a 500 watt lying around, so thats abit to low. And i have been using this whole setup for about 4 years with no problems, so i dont think its the power.

#12 dc3

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 12:38 PM

The large caps inside the PSU will start breaking down over times, and four years could be long enough.

 

Usually if the PSU fails there will be no activity with the computer, no fans, no LEDs, etc.

 

It's easy enough to check the rail voltages if you have a multimeter with a DC voltage scale.

 

There is a section where it is suggested that you run Prime95 in order to place a load on the system in order to get the most accurate readings of the rail voltages.  Obviously this will not be possible in the computer's current condition.

 

 
Reading Desktop PSU Rail Voltages
 
Caution: Please read this before continuing.
 
 
* Since it will be necessary for your computer to be on during this procedure, you need to be aware that you will be working with live 12Volt DC potentials, which if handled improperly may lead to electrical shock. 
 
* There are electronics inside the case that are very susceptible to electrostatic discharges. To protect your computer, touch the metal of the case to discharge yourself of any electrostatic charges before touching any of the components inside.
 
* If you are not comfortable doing this procedure, then I would suggest that you not use this tutorial. The risks involved are minimal, but are there nevertheless. Anyone who uses this tutorial will be doing so at their own risk.
 
 
There are two devices commonly used to read the rail voltages: a PSU tester, and a multimeter. 
 
The PSU tester is the easiest to use since all that is necessary is to plug the different connectors into the tester and read the results on the LCD display. The problem with most of these is that they only perform a pass/fail test.  They will not provide you with actual voltage readings.
 
There are a variety of multiple meters, but this tutorial will address Analog and Digital multimeters. The advantage of these meters is that you will be able to obtain accurate real time voltage readings.
 
For those of you who wish to know more about multimeters there is an excellent article in Wikipedia.
 
 
Analog Multimeter
 
th_analogedited.jpg
 
 
An Analog multimeter is a little more complicated to use. Both Analog and Digital multimeters need to be set to the appropriate voltage, but with an Analog multimeter, you will need to choose the voltage range and must read the proper scale. 
 
The Analog multimeter uses a needle display which moves from 0 across the scale until it reaches the voltage being tested. This multimeter has five major linear divisions with multiple scales to read a variety of ranges. An example would be three different ranges. The first is graduated in increments of 0 through 5, the second, 0 through 10, and the third, 0 through 25. Each of these ranges are subdivided into divisions that are graduated into tenths. In order to read 12 volts the 0 through 25 range would be the appropriate one. 
 
Because DC voltage has positive and negative potentials this device is polar sensitive, this means that if you reverse the two probes when reading a positive DC voltage it will read as a negative voltage. This is actually necessary to read negative DC voltages. The two probes are differentiated by their color, Black (negative), and Red (positive). To read a positive DC voltage, the correct probes must be used with their corresponding potentials (positive to positive and negative to negative). 
 
With the probes being used normally to read a negative DC voltage, the needle moves from the 0 to the left, "pegging" the needle. By reversing the probes you can properly read the negative voltages.
 
Digital Multimeter
 
th_digitalmeteredited.jpg
 
 
The Digital multimeter (DMM) is much simpler to use. As was mentioned previously, you will need to set the appropriate voltage. One of the advantages is that the DMM has an LCD display with a numeric readout, so there are not any multiple scales to read. Another advantage is that most DMMs are autoranging when reading voltages, which means that you will not need to set the range with these DMMs. A DMM will read both positive and negative DC voltages and display them correctly. When reading a negative voltage, a minus sign will appear on the display before the numeric value. This still is a polar sensitive device, so you will still need to use the positive and negative probes with their corresponding potentials. 
 
There are five different DC rail voltages which are color coded. The Black wires are always negative.
 
Yellow +12VDC
 
Blue -12VDC
 
Red +5VDC
 
White -5VDC
 
Orange +3.3VDC
 
There are only three voltages that can be measured easily without disconnecting the 20/24 pin connector from the motherboard: +12V, +5V, and +3.3V.
 
The +12V and +5V voltages can be read from a four pin Molex power connector.
 
Four pin Molex power connector
 
th_250px-Molex_female_connector.jpg
 
 
The same voltages can be taken from a four pin SATA power connector, but in order to read the +3.3V you will need to read this from a five pin SATA power connector as seen below.
 
Five pin SATA power connector.
 
th_sata-power-cable.jpg
 
To read these voltages you will need to insert the Black (-) probe into any of the black  sockets, and insert the Red (+) probe in the different colored voltage sockets.   To read the voltages from a SATA power connector it is easiest to insert the probes into the bac k of the connector where the wires enter.  Unfortunately the sockets of the modular SATA power connectors are not accessible from the back, so the readings will need to be made from the socket side.  Some probes are going to be too large to fit in these sockets, so you may need to insert a piece of wire into the socket of which you want to read the voltage of and place the probe on this for your reading.  To reduce the potential of creating a short I would suggest taking the ground potential from another connector so that the two wires will remain physically separated.
 
Caution:  It is very important to make sure that you don't allow the two probes to touch each other when taking the voltage readings.  This will cause a short which could damage the PSU or other components.
 
To get accurate readings of the rail voltages it is important that there be a load on the PSU. In order to do this I would suggest downloading Prime95 and run the Just Stress Test for this purpose. This program was designed to be used by overclockers to put a full load on the RAM and CPU to determine the stability of their overclocking.  Because of this it will put stress on the CPU and RAM which will create higher than normal temperatures.  For this reason I would suggest not running this program any longer than is necessary.  I would also suggest that an inspection be made of the interior of the case to make sure that there isn’t an accumulation of dust which would impede adequate cooling.  Pay special attention to the heat sink and fan assembly on the CPU.  If there is a dedicated graphics card with a fan installed on it, look at this fan as well.      
 
 
Readings should not have variances larger than +/- five percent.  
 
Maximum.........Minimum
12.6V.................11.4V
5.25V.................4.75V
3.47V.................3.14V

Edited by dc3, 28 June 2014 - 12:38 PM.

Family and loved ones will always be a priority in my daily life.  You never know when one will leave you.

 

 

 

 


#13 synergy513

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 12:57 PM

i hate to be judgemental or opinionated, but the bequiet psu units are usually pretty good, IF your in europe someplace. they export some real crap to the US  most users here prefer the plain jane corsairs. and a 750 watt unit should suffice.  i forget, does the 5970 require one 8 pin pci and a six pin?

 

one more thing, have you been monitoring your temperatures? cards will black out around 200 degrees and a common culprit is clogged heatsinks or dusty fans  retarding the  vital airflow and thus the card overheats and blacks out.


Moore's Law : 4d Graph in Progress


#14 lythh

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 01:16 PM

Im from the netherlands so europe :)
But i agree on that corsair is better, but at that time the 1000w was no where to be bought and i just wanted my pc and i thought the be quiet was a giod alt. :) and i got the 1000 cuz i thought of getting 2 cards but that never happend XD
And the last time i saw my temp of my card was 3 weeks ago and it was 52. And it was the first thing i thought of when i got the black screen, so i took the card out for a night.:) oh and its a 6 pin

#15 synergy513

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 01:21 PM

my vote is to exhaust all solution avenues before finding fault with the card. it definitely is too nice of a card to give up on simply. 

 

 

i would try a new corsair power supply first and be sure to check for a valid return policy if that doesn't work. it would be my first choice if i didn't have the option of using an existing one already as a trial without having to purchase new. but, if the budget is good and you want to invest in a top grade power supply for future PC use, i like this series....

 

http://pcpartpicker.com/parts/power-supply/#m=95

 

my best estimate is that there are component attrition issues going on. simply put, something wore out, most likely the power supply.


Edited by synergy513, 28 June 2014 - 02:04 PM.

Moore's Law : 4d Graph in Progress





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