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A bit of an upgrade, mostly new parts.


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#1 LawrenceC

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Posted 02 February 2014 - 01:22 PM

So, here is my list of items that I have ordered and have not received or put together yet.

 

I already have the chassis and the motherboard, the other parts, ordered just the other day.


1 x Cooler Master Cosmos II - Ultra Tower Computer Case with Metal Body and Hinged Side Panels
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119252


1 x ASRock 990FX Extreme9 AM3+ AMD 990FX SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157358


1 x AMD FX-9590 Vishera 4.7GHz Socket AM3+ 220W Eight-Core Desktop Processor - Black Edition FD9590FHHKWOF
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113347


5 x Cooler Master JetFlo 120 - POM Bearing 120mm Red LED High Performance Silent Fan for Computer Cases, CPU Coolers, ...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103190


1 x bgears b-PWM 140 Red 140mm Red LED PWM technology mini 4 pin 4 wire 2 ball bearing high speed high performance 15 ...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835132030


1 x 200mm LED Fan on/off for Cosmos II & Stryker / Trooper
http://www.cmstore-usa.com/200mm-led-fan-on-off-for-cosmos-ii-stryker-trooper-oem-packaging/


Cooler Master Nepton 280L - PC CPU Liquid Water Cooling System, All-In-One Kit with 280mm Radiator and 2 JetFlo Fans
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HEYRS5K/


Enermax Platimax 1350W 89+ EPS 12V Modular PSU 240-Pin 1600 Power Supply, EPM1350EWT
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008PSEMTY/


Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB (4x8GB) DDR3 2400 MHz (PC3-19200) Desktop Memory CMD32GX3M4A2400C10
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A6JFWNA/


ASUS Computer International Direct Blu-Ray Writer BW-16D1HT
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DWFPDJI/


Logitech MK710 Wireless Desktop Mouse and Keyboard Combo
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036E8V08/


Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound 12grams with ArctiClean 120ml Kit (Includes 2 30ml ArctiClean 1 and 2 30ml ArctiClean 2) with Bonus DB Roth Microfibe
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RUEKNA/


Plus, I may be interested in getting some new BitFenix Alchemy Multisleeved Cables,
or some of BitFenix Alchemy Multisleeved Extension Cables as I may need for my PC.
http://www.bitfenix.com/global/en/products/premium-modding/alchemy-cables
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=BitFenix+Alchemy+cable+extension
That is because the cables on that Enermax Platimax 1350 PSU might be
a little on the short side for reaching everything inside a very big PC case.


What I already have now, are my graphics card, and that is
a Sapphire Radeon HD 6990, a Samsung 840 EVO 1TB SSD,
and a 3TB hard disk drive, a Hitachi Ultrastar 7K3000 HDD,
HUA723030ALA640 (0F12456), 3TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache,
SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Enterprise HDD, and a Blu-ray optical drive.

Come to think of it, I probably should keep my current optical drive,
so that I will have two optical drives, this is the one I have now, here:

LITE-ON 12X BD-R 2X BD-RE 16X DVD+R 12X DVD-RAM 8X BD-ROM 8MB Cache SATA Blu-ray Burner with 3D Playback iHBS212-08 LightScribe Support
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106348

Will this be alright in my rig setup as shown above, or out of place?
I mean I will be getting the ASUS Blu-ray drive as listed, this will be
a second optical drive, this Lite-On won't be my only optical drive.

I'm still not sure concerning any need I may have for extension cables.

The fans as listed are for replacing many of the included fans, with either,
higher air flow (CFM) fans, most importantly, or also ones with red LED's.

Future plans to add to this for further upgrades, a dual GPU Radeon R9 card,
and possibly at some time (when available), 64 GB RAM, as 4 x 16 GB RAM,
this is supported by my motherboard, but good luck trying to find any yet.  NOT!


Any useful or helpful feedback or input concerning my choice and combination of items is welcome, thank you.
 



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#2 killerx525

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 01:58 AM

Hi, everything looks great although you do not need the thermal paste as Coolermaster already includes it with the CPU cooler, 1350W is an overkill even with 2 high end graphics card, your better off with a ~750W power supply and you might want to hold on buying those extensions cables and see how it goes.


>Michael 
System1: CPU- Intel Core i7-5820K @ 4.4GHz, CPU Cooler- Noctua NH-D14, RAM- G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB Kit(4Gx4) DDR3 2133MHz, SSD/HDD- Samsung 850 EVO 250GB/Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB/Seagate Barracuada 3TB, GPU- 2x EVGA GTX980 Superclocked @1360/MHz1900MHz, Motherboard- Asus X99 Deluxe, Case- Custom Mac G5, PSU- EVGA P2-1000W, Soundcard- Realtek High Definition Audio, OS- Windows 10 Pro 64-Bit
Games: APB: Reloaded, Hours played: 3100+  System2: Late 2011 Macbook Pro 15inch   OFw63FY.png


#3 LawrenceC

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 03:14 AM

Arctic Silver 5 is a very good performing thermal coumpound.

For those who do not know, there actually is much difference in how

different thermal coumpounds actually perform, and they are even tested and reviewed.

This is no real secret as it can easily be found.  The only thing about Arctic Silver 5, is simply be careful,

and not do what you would not want to do anyway, in any case, and that is use too much, or to spill or drop any,

and that is, to be careful to avoid any getting on the motherboard so prevent any from touching any circuitry,

or any elctronic components or pathways.  Why because Arctic Silver 5 really contains silver. 

It is an exaggeration to consider the compound to be as electrically conductive as silver is.

Arctic Silver 5 actually has a small degree of electrical capacitance, which is different than

outright being a very good conductor / very conductive, as it is really not a very high percentage

of silver and not much else, how could anyone think it is pure silver, when silver is a solid metal?

At any rate the extent to which Artic Silver has some electrical capacitance is actually pretty small.

But, still to be on the safe side and to avoid any electrical faults, you simply do not let it get

anywhere it is not supposed to be, meaning you are careful in using and applying it. 

Silver has some notable qualities as an element, in it's pure state, it is excellent

at thermal conductivity, which is why it is very good as a thermal compound,

other aspects where silvers shines is that it is the element having the best electrical conductivity

(pure and untarnished) and also the highest reflectivity of visible light (pure and untarnished and polished). 

Gold has the best thermal reflectivity.  Goild is really not the best electrical conductor,

but gold is very good for electrical contacts only because it does not oxidize or corrode.

In fact copper is even a better conductor of electricity than gold is.  Most people do not know.

Find a test and comparison and review of thermal compounds, you will find that Arctic Silver 5

is one of the very best thermal compounds, and also that different thermal compounds really do

show different amounts of eprfoamance and temperatures when tested side by side, the ones

that are supplied with things are not very of often the better ones to use. It is just foolish advice

as to not caring about the thermal compound you use as if it does not matter.  It does matter...

Like I said, I found a review and comparison that actually tested many side by side with temps.



#4 killerx525

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 03:32 AM

Arctic Silver 5 is a very good performing thermal coumpound.

For those who do not know, there actually is much difference in how

different thermal coumpounds actually perform, and they are even tested and reviewed.

This is no real secret as it can easily be found.  The only thing about Arctic Silver 5, is simply be careful,

and not do what you would not want to do anyway, in any case, and that is use too much, or to spill or drop any,

and that is, to be careful to avoid any getting on the motherboard so prevent any from touching any circuitry,

or any elctronic components or pathways.  Why because Arctic Silver 5 really contains silver. 

It is an exaggeration to consider the compound to be as electrically conductive as silver is.

Arctic Silver 5 actually has a small degree of electrical capacitance, which is different than

outright being a very good conductor / very conductive, as it is really not a very high percentage

of silver and not much else, how could anyone think it is pure silver, when silver is a solid metal?

At any rate the extent to which Artic Silver has some electrical capacitance is actually pretty small.

But, still to be on the safe side and to avoid any electrical faults, you simply do not let it get

anywhere it is not supposed to be, meaning you are careful in using and applying it. 

Silver has some notable qualities as an element, in it's pure state, it is excellent

at thermal conductivity, which is why it is very good as a thermal compound,

other aspects where silvers shines is that it is the element having the best electrical conductivity

(pure and untarnished) and also the highest reflectivity of visible light (pure and untarnished and polished). 

Gold has the best thermal reflectivity.  Goild is really not the best electrical conductor,

but gold is very good for electrical contacts only because it does not oxidize or corrode.

In fact copper is even a better conductor of electricity than gold is.  Most people do not know.

Find a test and comparison and review of thermal compounds, you will find that Arctic Silver 5

is one of the very best thermal compounds, and also that different thermal compounds really do

show different amounts of eprfoamance and temperatures when tested side by side, the ones

that are supplied with things are not very of often the better ones to use. It is just foolish advice

as to not caring about the thermal compound you use as if it does not matter.  It does matter...

Like I said, I found a review and comparison that actually tested many side by side with temps.

So a few Celsius degrees differences from other thermal paste matters that much? 


>Michael 
System1: CPU- Intel Core i7-5820K @ 4.4GHz, CPU Cooler- Noctua NH-D14, RAM- G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB Kit(4Gx4) DDR3 2133MHz, SSD/HDD- Samsung 850 EVO 250GB/Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB/Seagate Barracuada 3TB, GPU- 2x EVGA GTX980 Superclocked @1360/MHz1900MHz, Motherboard- Asus X99 Deluxe, Case- Custom Mac G5, PSU- EVGA P2-1000W, Soundcard- Realtek High Definition Audio, OS- Windows 10 Pro 64-Bit
Games: APB: Reloaded, Hours played: 3100+  System2: Late 2011 Macbook Pro 15inch   OFw63FY.png


#5 LawrenceC

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 03:36 AM

Most people who want to sound as if they are the smartest often have less understanding of things, actually.

 

You also show a poor understanding of how power supplies actually owrk as well.  Although I do not need

all of the rated capacity of 1350 Watts, a good reason to have a bigger power supply than the system will

use for the total watts combined is that it will run at a lower than full load, and lower than full percentage

of it's rated cpaacity, which if you look at what the 80 plus efficiency specs say, everytime it is the same,

three numbers, showing what percentage of efficiency at 20%, then 50%, then 100% load for it wattage.

A power supply runs most effieciently somwhere in the middle of it's rated capacity, it really does not

run best when you tax a PSU to near it's limit, but many people think only of the number of watts alone,

then they think it is great advice to use a 500W PSU in a system that needs 500W or to use a 600W PSU

in a system that will need 600W.  Foolishness, and a big power supply that is bigger than needed will

run cooler, more efficiently, actually use less electricity than a lower rated PSU, and it does not use

more electricity than the system needs anyway, it just delivers the amount the system needs EASIER.

When you use a 600W PSU in a system that needs all of that 600 Watts, the PSU is running at less

than it's better efficiency levels, it is running warmer, generating heat, it is also pulling more than

600W out of your home electrical system/wiring, electirc bill, than 600 Watts as well, in order

to  deliver the needed 600 Watts to your PC system.  My 1350 Watts PSU will not use 1350 Watts,

it will run very efficiently, and deliver only the amount of power my system needs very easily and cool.

 

That is the way it actually works in reality, with a little bit of knowledge above the over the simple lack of knowledge

that think only about the one and only thing regarding the number of Watts leads people to believe they know it well.

 

Learn about power supplies and how they actually work and what the efficiency certifications actually represent.

 

When these people who give bad advice while thinking they are giving good advice are actually doing a disservice to people.



#6 LawrenceC

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 03:43 AM

 

Arctic Silver 5 is a very good performing thermal coumpound.

For those who do not know, there actually is much difference in how

different thermal coumpounds actually perform, and they are even tested and reviewed.

This is no real secret as it can easily be found.  The only thing about Arctic Silver 5, is simply be careful,

and not do what you would not want to do anyway, in any case, and that is use too much, or to spill or drop any,

and that is, to be careful to avoid any getting on the motherboard so prevent any from touching any circuitry,

or any elctronic components or pathways.  Why because Arctic Silver 5 really contains silver. 

It is an exaggeration to consider the compound to be as electrically conductive as silver is.

Arctic Silver 5 actually has a small degree of electrical capacitance, which is different than

outright being a very good conductor / very conductive, as it is really not a very high percentage

of silver and not much else, how could anyone think it is pure silver, when silver is a solid metal?

At any rate the extent to which Artic Silver has some electrical capacitance is actually pretty small.

But, still to be on the safe side and to avoid any electrical faults, you simply do not let it get

anywhere it is not supposed to be, meaning you are careful in using and applying it. 

Silver has some notable qualities as an element, in it's pure state, it is excellent

at thermal conductivity, which is why it is very good as a thermal compound,

other aspects where silvers shines is that it is the element having the best electrical conductivity

(pure and untarnished) and also the highest reflectivity of visible light (pure and untarnished and polished). 

Gold has the best thermal reflectivity.  Goild is really not the best electrical conductor,

but gold is very good for electrical contacts only because it does not oxidize or corrode.

In fact copper is even a better conductor of electricity than gold is.  Most people do not know.

Find a test and comparison and review of thermal compounds, you will find that Arctic Silver 5

is one of the very best thermal compounds, and also that different thermal compounds really do

show different amounts of eprfoamance and temperatures when tested side by side, the ones

that are supplied with things are not very of often the better ones to use. It is just foolish advice

as to not caring about the thermal compound you use as if it does not matter.  It does matter...

Like I said, I found a review and comparison that actually tested many side by side with temps.

So a few Celsius degrees differences from other thermal paste matters that much? 

 

 

It is called "doing it right", which is my prerogative to build my system well, rather than a mediocre system.

 

My standards are to do a thing and to do it well.  Your standards might be to do a thing only half way good?


Edited by LawrenceC, 03 February 2014 - 03:43 AM.


#7 killerx525

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 04:46 AM

So in other words ANY system that does not use Arctic Sliver 5 is a mediocre system? 


>Michael 
System1: CPU- Intel Core i7-5820K @ 4.4GHz, CPU Cooler- Noctua NH-D14, RAM- G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB Kit(4Gx4) DDR3 2133MHz, SSD/HDD- Samsung 850 EVO 250GB/Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB/Seagate Barracuada 3TB, GPU- 2x EVGA GTX980 Superclocked @1360/MHz1900MHz, Motherboard- Asus X99 Deluxe, Case- Custom Mac G5, PSU- EVGA P2-1000W, Soundcard- Realtek High Definition Audio, OS- Windows 10 Pro 64-Bit
Games: APB: Reloaded, Hours played: 3100+  System2: Late 2011 Macbook Pro 15inch   OFw63FY.png


#8 LawrenceC

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 05:40 AM

So in other words ANY system that does not use Arctic Sliver 5 is a mediocre system? 

 

Those are your words.  I am finished talking to an individual who has demonstrated that they are as immature as you have.

 

Please do not mistake my future lack of responses to you as being anything like you have "won" anything in our exchanges.



#9 killerx525

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 06:38 AM

 

 

Those are your words.  I am finished talking to an individual who has demonstrated that they are as immature as you have.

 

Please do not mistake my future lack of responses to you as being anything like you have "won" anything in our exchanges.

 

Immature? I was just simply attempting to help but unfortunately your comments are just simply arrogant, rude and aggressive.


>Michael 
System1: CPU- Intel Core i7-5820K @ 4.4GHz, CPU Cooler- Noctua NH-D14, RAM- G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB Kit(4Gx4) DDR3 2133MHz, SSD/HDD- Samsung 850 EVO 250GB/Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB/Seagate Barracuada 3TB, GPU- 2x EVGA GTX980 Superclocked @1360/MHz1900MHz, Motherboard- Asus X99 Deluxe, Case- Custom Mac G5, PSU- EVGA P2-1000W, Soundcard- Realtek High Definition Audio, OS- Windows 10 Pro 64-Bit
Games: APB: Reloaded, Hours played: 3100+  System2: Late 2011 Macbook Pro 15inch   OFw63FY.png


#10 waldojim42

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 08:44 AM

Ok, a quick two cents from someone who has been doing this for years.

 

First, a 750W PSU (as suggested above) would NOT be ideal for a system running two video cards and that CPU you have chosen. Don't do it. You are looking at 820W using 2x R9 290Xes (which is seems is the end goal, yes?) and that CPU. What you have priced out is ideal considering your planned growth. Now, personally, I would suggest a different manufacturer, but that is largely personal preference. Enermax PSU's are decent. I use PC Power and Cooling in my gaming rigs though, and highly recommend them.

 

These days, moving to a Diamond based compound is recommended. Arctic Silver 5 was the cats meow when it was released. But it does have its drawbacks, and should be considered a fall-back option. Antec Nano Diamond formula 7 or IC Diamond are highly recommended.

 

Lastly, you are spending too much on your ram going with Corsair. Gskill will save you $150 without sacrificing performance or quality.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231590

Or, for $10 more than that Corsair set, you could upgrade to 2666 ram from Gskill, and get it actively cooled.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231602


Edited by waldojim42, 03 February 2014 - 08:45 AM.

Laptop: Alienware 14 : Intel i7 4700mq : 8GB ram : Nvidia GTX 765 : 256GB Plextor M3 : 1080P IPS display

Test rig: AMD Phenom X4 955 @ 4.0Ghz : MSI 970A-G46 : 8GB Ram : 128GB Plextor M5s : 2x AMD 5770's (Flashed to 6770) : PC Power and Cooling Silencer 750 : Pioneer BR

Hackintosh : Gigabyte GA-H61m : Intel Celeron @ 3Ghz : 8GB ram : EVGA GTX 550Ti : Patriot Torx 2 64GB : Silverstone Strider ES-50 : OSX Mavericks

 


#11 LawrenceC

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 09:07 AM

Thank you for your reply, waldojim42.

 

I already have purchased all of these items.

 

Yes, two Radeon R9 290X is/are my future GPU/GPU's.

 

I have used a diamond based thermal compound before,

& it sets very fast, I found it to be a hassle to use, myself.

 

I know the Corsair Dominator Platinum RAM is not the best value, and it really is a bit pricey.

 

I think the fastest RAM I could sensibly use for both my CPU and motherboard is the DDR3 2400.

 

Technically, the fastest RAM my ASRock 990FX Extreme9 motherboard can support is DDR3 2450(OC).

 

The DDR3 2666 RAM speed, to my understanding would not be workable at all with either my CPU or mobo.

 

But I certainly value your more informed and knowledgable perspective, waldojim42.  Thank you, again.



#12 waldojim42

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 05:43 PM

Well, considering that everything over 1800Mhz is technically an overclock, it is hard to say what the exact limit would be in any event. The motherboard itself should remain stable up to 2450, but that doesn't mean you could actually get that out of the system. The nice part about grabbing up ram rated for 2666, is that the ram has been certified stable for higher speeds and may be tweakable to tighter latencies at 2400mhz.

 

In any event, the 2400 GSkill kit works out to have identical performance as the Corsair, and is considerably cheaper. From my own POV, that is $150 that could be better applied trying to increase the performance of the system.

 

As for the compound, this is good to know. I am generally fairly quick about my work, and have never experienced this. But this certainly will affect how I recommend this in the future. I would hate to suggest this to people who rarely work on PC's and have something go wrong.

 

EDIT: For the sake of asking, is there a reason you don't have an SSD on the menu?


Edited by waldojim42, 03 February 2014 - 05:44 PM.

Laptop: Alienware 14 : Intel i7 4700mq : 8GB ram : Nvidia GTX 765 : 256GB Plextor M3 : 1080P IPS display

Test rig: AMD Phenom X4 955 @ 4.0Ghz : MSI 970A-G46 : 8GB Ram : 128GB Plextor M5s : 2x AMD 5770's (Flashed to 6770) : PC Power and Cooling Silencer 750 : Pioneer BR

Hackintosh : Gigabyte GA-H61m : Intel Celeron @ 3Ghz : 8GB ram : EVGA GTX 550Ti : Patriot Torx 2 64GB : Silverstone Strider ES-50 : OSX Mavericks

 


#13 LawrenceC

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 06:05 PM

I already bought the RAM as indicated. 

 

The memory controller clock speed of the FX-9590 CPU is 2400 MHz.

 

The reason I did not list an SSD on my parts is this, I already have one.

 

This seems like a complete new build, but it is not, I said it's an upgrade. 

 

Albeit, I am changing almost everything. I got a new Samsung SSD very

recently, like at the beginning of September, a 1TB Samsung 840 EVO.

 

I have to forgive you for not having read all of my original post, that is what 

has been happening at most of the other several forums I have posted this.

 

My first attempt at a CPU swap was in 2009 and I used the diamond TIM then.

 

I tried to use it, is more like it, I wound up ruining my CPU when I bent some pins.

 

Maybe you mean everything over 1600 is an overclock or everything over 1866?


Edited by LawrenceC, 03 February 2014 - 06:11 PM.


#14 LawrenceC

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 06:30 PM

 

What I already have now, are my graphics card, and that is
a Sapphire Radeon HD 6990, a Samsung 840 EVO 1TB SSD,
and a 3TB hard disk drive, a Hitachi Ultrastar 7K3000 HDD,
HUA723030ALA640 (0F12456), 3TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache,
SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Enterprise HDD, and a Blu-ray optical drive.


 



#15 LawrenceC

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 06:34 PM

I am using the 1TB Samsung 840 EVO SSD in the desktop PC that I am using right now.

 

This is the PC I am upgrading which I will replace almost all of the parts to the new ones.






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