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Asus Anti Surge Problems


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#1 brololol

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Posted 01 August 2013 - 11:11 AM

Hi I'm currently experiencing problems with the Asus anti surge 
when i am using the computer normally to browse the web it works fine

but when i try to play a game (Far Cry 3, Hitman Absolution), after about 30~40 mins of gameplay, the computer just shuts down, and turns back on with the message

"Power Supply Surges detected during the previous power on. ASUS Anti-Surge was triggered to protect system from unstable power supply unit"

My current specs are

 

OS : Windows 7 Ultimate K 64-bit SP1

CPU: Intel core 15 3579K @ 3.40GHz Ivybridge 22nm Technology

Ram : 8.00 GB Dual Channel DDR3 @ 800MHz

Motherboard : ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. P8H77-V (LGA1155)

GPU : 2048MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 670 (Palit Microsystems)

Hard Drives : 112GB Samsung SSD 840 Series ATA Device (SSD) 37 °C

                        932GB Hitachi HDS721010CLA630 ATA Device (SATA)
PSU : Cooler Master 750 W

and it tells me i need 500W to run the computer, so the PSU should be more than enough

I've also read up somewhere that the Asus anti surge was overly sensitive and acts up randomly 

I dont know if it is something to do with the PSU or the motherboard
I've thought of disabling the anti surge but im not sure what will happen to the motherboard if it actually is a faulty PSU

It worked perfectly fine when playing Dishonored on the highest settings, but not with Far Cry 3 and Hitman Absolution

Please Help!

 



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#2 dpunisher

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Posted 01 August 2013 - 12:22 PM

Which 750 watt Cooler Master?

 

The GX750 was notorious for really bad voltage regulation, just not a very good power supply.  If it is a GX750, it would not surprise me it is tripping alarms.

 

Cooler Master rant over......for now.


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#3 GreenGiant117

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Posted 01 August 2013 - 12:24 PM

It may not be a faulty power supply, open your case and follow each of the power chains, if there are too many things on one chain, or if a couple of chains are on the same 12V rail (for a 750 watt there are probably 2 or 3 12V rails) that can cause voltage fluctiations, which would lead to the error.

 

If everything is well balanced on there, then you may want to find a power supply tester and see if it shows anything.



#4 dc3

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Posted 01 August 2013 - 12:27 PM

If you have a multimeter with a DC scale try doing the following.

 

 
Reading Desktop ATX Form Factor PSU Rail Voltages
 
Caution: Please read this before continuing.
 
 

  • Since it will be necessary for your computer to be on during this procedure, you need to be aware that you will be working with live 12Volt DC potentials, which if handled improperly may lead to electrical shock. 

 

  • There are electronics inside the case that are very susceptible to electrostatic discharges. To protect your computer, touch the metal of the case to discharge yourself of any electrostatic charges before touching any of the components inside.

 

  • If you are not comfortable doing this procedure, then I would suggest that you not use this tutorial. The risks involved are minimal, but are there nevertheless. Anyone who uses this tutorial will be doing so at their own risk.

 
 
There are two devices commonly used to read the rail voltages: a PSU tester, and a multimeter. 
 
The PSU tester is the easiest to use since all that is necessary is to plug the different connectors into the tester and read the results on the LCD display. The problem with most of these is that they only perform a pass/fail test.  They will not provide you with actual voltage readings.
 
There are a variety of multiple meters, but this tutorial will address Analog and Digital multimeters. The advantage of these meters is that you will be able to obtain accurate real time voltage readings.
 
For those of you who wish to know more about multimeters there is an excellent article in Wikipedia.
 
 
Analog Multimeter
 
th_analogedited.jpg
 
 
An Analog multimeter is a little more complicated to use. Both Analog and Digital multimeters need to be set to the appropriate voltage, but with an Analog multimeter, you will need to choose the voltage range and must read the proper scale. 
 
The Analog multimeter uses a needle display which moves from 0 across the scale until it reaches the voltage being tested. This multimeter has five major linear divisions with multiple scales to read a variety of ranges. An example would be three different ranges. The first is graduated in increments of 0 through 5, the second, 0 through 10, and the third, 0 through 25. Each of these ranges are subdivided into divisions that are graduated into tenths. In order to read 12 volts the 0 through 25 range would be the appropriate one. 
 
Because DC voltage has positive and negative potentials this device is polar sensitive, this means that if you reverse the two probes when reading a positive DC voltage it will read as a negative voltage. This is actually necessary to read negative DC voltages. The two probes are differentiated by their color, Black (negative), and Red (positive). To read a positive DC voltage, the correct probes must be used with their corresponding potentials (positive to positive and negative to negative). 
 
With the probes being used normally to read a negative DC voltage, the needle moves from the 0 to the left, "pegging" the needle. By reversing the probes you can properly read the negative voltages.
 
Digital Multimeter
 
th_digitalmeteredited.jpg
 
 
The Digital multimeter (DMM) is much simpler to use. As was mentioned previously, you will need to set the appropriate voltage. One of the advantages is that the DMM has an LCD display with a numeric readout, so there are not any multiple scales to read. Another advantage is that most DMMs are autoranging when reading voltages, which means that you will not need to set the range with these DMMs. A DMM will read both positive and negative DC voltages and display them correctly. When reading a negative voltage, a minus sign will appear on the display before the numeric value. This still is a polar sensitive device, so you will still need to use the positive and negative probes with their corresponding potentials. 
 
There are five different DC rail voltages which are color coded. The Black wires are always negative.
 
Yellow +12VDC
 
Blue -12VDC
 
Red +5VDC
 
White -5VDC
 
Orange +3.3VDC
 
There are only three voltages that can be measured easily without disconnecting the 20/24 pin connector from the motherboard: +12V, +5V, and +3.3V.
 
The +12V and +5V voltages can be read from a four pin Molex power connector.
 
Four pin Molex power connector
 
th_250px-Molex_female_connector.jpg
 
 
The same voltages can be taken from a four pin SATA power connector, but in order to read the +3.3V you will need to read this from a five pin SATA power connector as seen below.
 
Five pin SATA power connector.
 
th_sata-power-cable.jpg
 
To read these voltages you will need to insert the Black (-) probe into any of the black  sockets, and insert the Red (+) probe in the different colored voltage sockets.   To read the voltages from a SATA power connector it is easiest to insert the probes into the bac k of the connector where the wires enter.  Unfortunately the sockets of the modular SATA power connectors are not accessible from the back, so the readings will need to be made from the socket side.  Some probes are going to be too large to fit in these sockets, so you may need to insert a piece of wire into the socket of which you want to read the voltage of and place the probe on this for your reading.  To reduce the potential of creating a short I would suggest taking the ground potential from another connector so that the two wires will remain physically separated.
 
Caution:  It is very important to make sure that you don't allow the two probes to touch each other when taking the voltage readings.  This will cause a short which could damage the PSU or other components.
 
To get accurate readings of the rail voltages it is important that there be a load on the PSU. In order to do this I would suggest downloading Prime95 for this purpose. This program was designed to be used by overclockers to put a full load on the RAM and CPU to determine the stability of their overclocking.  Because of this it will put stress on the CPU and RAM which will create higher than normal temperatures.  For this reason I would suggest not running this program any longer than is necessary.  I would also suggest that an inspection be made of the interior of the case to make sure that there isn’t an accumulation of dust which would impede adequate cooling.  Pay special attention to the heat sink and fan assembly on the CPU.  If there is a dedicated graphics card with a fan installed on it, look at this fan as well.      
 
 
Readings should not have variances larger than +/- five percent.  
 
Maximum.........Minimum
12.6V.................11.4V
5.25V.................4.75V
3.47V.................3.14V

Edited by dc3, 01 August 2013 - 12:29 PM.

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#5 dc3

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Posted 01 August 2013 - 12:34 PM

It may not be a faulty power supply, open your case and follow each of the power chains, if there are too many things on one chain, or if a couple of chains are on the same 12V rail (for a 750 watt there are probably 2 or 3 12V rails) that can cause voltage fluctiations, which would lead to the error.

 

If everything is well balanced on there, then you may want to find a power supply tester and see if it shows anything.

 

All of the Cooler Master 750W PSUs I looked at have a singe 12V rail @ 60A.  You are not going to overload it with the cables provided by the manufacturer.


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#6 GreenGiant117

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Posted 01 August 2013 - 12:37 PM

All of the Cooler Master 750W PSUs I looked at have a singe 12V rail @ 60A.  You are not going to overload it with the cables provided by the manufacturer.

 

 

 

fair enough, Im not super familiar with the Cooler Master brand name, I just know that my previous PSU was a 750W that had 2 12V rails, one at 20 one at 40 (or something like that), but for some reason the longer chain was connected to the 20A rail so I almost blew it once, did a little surgery on it and fixed that right quick






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