Hello and welcome to Bleeping Computer.
I am not clear as to what you meant by your saying you flipped the battery. I am assuming you flipped the CR2032 battery over so the narrow side was facing up, this is also known as the negative (-) side of the battery. If this is what you did, it gave you no benefit what so ever.
The CLR_CMOS jumper is the only thing that should have been relocated to the 2-3 pins then returned back to pins 1-2.
What your problem sounds like to me is that your PSU is the actual culprit here.
There are PSU testers out there on the market, however since you have a digital multimeter handy, you can test the controller that is built into the PSU by following the test procedure I am providing you with below. If the PSU comes to life, the controller is good, however, that does not mean that one of the rails in your PSU could be bad or has failed and is no longer providing 12 Volts to the power harness that connects to your mother board. While you have this jumper in place, you can test the wires at the connector with your DMM. Orange is 3.3+ Volts Red is 5.0+ Volts and Yellow is 12 + Volts I'll provide a link at the bottom of this post to a website that shows all the wires and what voltage is carried on them.
WARNING: THIS POST MAY CONTAIN DIRECTIONS THAT INCLUDE WORKING WITH LIVE VOLTAGES OR PARTS INSIDE A COMPUTER'S POWER SUPPLY THAT CAN CAUSE SERIOUS ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR SERIOUS BURNS, A POWER SUPPLY CONTAINS VARY LARGE ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITORS THAT ACT JUST LIKE A BATTERY OR VOLTAGE STORAGE DEVICE, THOSE AND OTHER ELECTRONICS FOUND INSIDE A POWER SUPPLY CAN STORE DANGEROUS AMOUNTS OF ELECTRICITY HOURS OR EVEN WEEKS AFTER ALL ELECTRICAL CURRENT HAS BEEN DISCONNECTED FROM THEM! PLEASE USE EXTREME CAUTION AND COMMON SENSE WHEN WORKING WITH POWER SUPPLIES OR AC VOLTAGES!
The purpose of this procedure is to bypass the motherboard to test a ATX PSU. Some manufacturers Like Dell have used some non ATX PSUs which have a different pinout for the 20/4 pin connector, please confirm that your PSU is a ATX type before using this procedure.
Caution: This procedure will involve working with live 12VDC electrical potentials which if handled improperly may lead to electrical shock. Proper precautions should also be taken to prevent electrostatic discharges (ESDs) within the case of the computer. For safety purposes please follow the instructions step by step.
First, shutdown your computer. Then unplug the power cable going into your computer.
Press and hold the front panel power switch for several seconds. This will ensure that the Capacitors on the mainboard have been discharged.
Once you have opened the case, touch the metal of the case to discharge any static electricity.
The connector of the PSU which connects to the motherboard is readily recognizable by the number of wires in the bundle. To disconnect it you will need to press on the plastic clip to disengage it and then pull the connector up and away from the motherboard. Please take notice of the location of the locking tab and the notch on the socket of the motherboard, this will only connect one way as it is keyed. This wire bundle will have a memory of the way it has been installed and will want to bend back that direction, you may have to play around with it to find a position that the connector will stay in the same position while you run the test.
From the top left to right the pins are 13-24, the bottom from left to right are 1-12.
Please notice that there are PSUs with 24 pin and 20 pin connectors, the location of the green wire in the 24 pin connector is #16, and the green wire in the 20 pin connector is #14. If you look at the connector with socket side facing you and the clip on the top the number one pin will be on the bottom left corner. This makes the pin out for the 24 pin connector from left to right 13-24 on top, and 1-12 on the bottom. The pin out for the 20 pin connector from left to right is 11-20 on top , and 1-10 on the bottom. If you look at the connectors you notice that these are sockets that fit over the pins on the motherboard where the PSU cable attaches, this is where you will place the jumper. For a jumper you will need a piece of solid wire about the size of a paper clip (20-22 awg), preferably a wire with insulation. It will need to be large enough to fit firmly into the socket so that it will not need to be held in place while testing. You are at risk of electrical shock if you are holding the jumper when you power up the PSU. Insert one end of the jumper into the socket of the Green wire, and insert the other end into the socket of any Black wire.
Once the jumper is in place plug the cord back in. If the PSU is working properly the case fans, optical drives, hdds, and LEDs should power up and remain on. I would suggest that you not leave this connected any longer than is necessary for safety purposes.
To reconnect the 20/4 pin connector unplug the power cord, remove the jumper, and reconnect the connector. Take a moment at this time to make sure that nothing has been dislodged inside the case.
Now here is a link to what wires do what in the power connectors: