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Was my graphic card the cause of computer freezes?


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#1 ZapZap

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 12:26 AM

Hi, I posted about a computer freezing problem a few months back which can be found on this thread: http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/t/473108/random-computer-freezing/

 

After awhile, the solution was still not found as can be seen in the thread (I forgot to thank everyone as an end note there! sorry about that!). I ended up deciding to just call up someone to repair my computer. The repairman told me that the problem was my motherboard and that it needed to be replaced, which I agreed to. When I got the computer back, the motherboard was replaced, and the repairman told me that my graphic card was not compatible with the new motherboard, so I couldn't use it anymore. I was fine with that, since I wasn't doing anything too major at that time. Right now the motherboard has an integrated card.

 

Now several months later, I am interested in gaming again. I decide that I probably should get myself a new graphics card. I became curious about my old graphics card, so I opened up my computer and put in my old graphics card, which to my surprise, it fit the slot. I turn on my computer and the graphic card works. But then soon after, the exact same computer freeze problem from my old thread comes up again. I take out the graphics card and the problem is no longer there.

 

So this makes no sense to me. Was I scammed or something? Because to me, this seems like my old motherboard wasn't the problem at all and it was my old graphics card? Or am I misunderstanding something here? Could someone enlighten me as to what's going on? Thank you so much for the help.


Edited by hamluis, 11 February 2013 - 10:17 AM.
Moved from XP to Internal Hardware - Hamluis.


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#2 dc3

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 11:28 AM

Did they explain why they purchased a motherboard which wasn't compatible with the dedicated graphics card?

 

Please post the make and model of this computer.  If it is a custom build please post the make and model of the original motherboard and the make and model of the PSU.

 

Please post the make and model of the new motherboard.

 

Did you install the driver for the dedicated card?


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#3 ZapZap

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 03:46 PM

Did they explain why they purchased a motherboard which wasn't compatible with the dedicated graphics card?

 

Please post the make and model of this computer.  If it is a custom build please post the make and model of the original motherboard and the make and model of the PSU.

 

Please post the make and model of the new motherboard.

 

Did you install the driver for the dedicated card?

 

Hi, thanks for responding.

 

Yes, the repairman told me that the new motherboard was a newer model and my dedicated card was older, so it wasn't compatible. EDIT: Sorry, just noticed I didn't answer the question correctly. No, I was not actually told why he replaced it with a motherboard that was not compatible with my dedicated graphics card. But from what I see, it is compatible because it works when I put it in. Though the freezing problem occurs again with it put in, which led me to believe the card was the problem and not my old motherboard.

 

I'm not sure if this is the make and model but it was on the label of my computer and it looks like it: HP m7360n and Prod # EL409AA-ABA. The new motherboard is ASUS P5G41T-MLX PLUS.

 

And I have updated the driver for the dedicated card.

 

Thanks.


Edited by ZapZap, 11 February 2013 - 06:18 PM.


#4 killerx525

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 12:03 AM

So it is still freezing despite the new motherboard? Also which graphics card did you purchase?


>Michael 
System1: CPU- Intel Core i7-5820K @ 4.4GHz, CPU Cooler- Noctua NH-D14, RAM- G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB Kit(4Gx4) DDR3 2133MHz, SSD/HDD- Samsung 850 EVO 250GB/Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB/Seagate Barracuada 3TB, GPU- 2x EVGA GTX980 Superclocked @1360/MHz1900MHz, Motherboard- Asus X99 Deluxe, Case- Custom Mac G5, PSU- EVGA P2-1000W, Soundcard- Realtek High Definition Audio, OS- Windows 10 Pro 64-Bit
Games: APB: Reloaded, Hours played: 3100+  System2: Late 2011 Macbook Pro 15inch   OFw63FY.png


#5 ZapZap

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 01:03 AM

So it is still freezing despite the new motherboard? Also which graphics card did you purchase?

 

The freezes only occur only if I put my old card back into the motherboard, otherwise, there are no freezes at all. And the card came with the purchase of my computer a number of years ago, it was NVIDIA GeForce 6200E. 



#6 killerx525

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 03:55 AM

It was definitely the graphics card itself but at least you can got a nice CPU upgrade and with some nice new bells and whistles. 


>Michael 
System1: CPU- Intel Core i7-5820K @ 4.4GHz, CPU Cooler- Noctua NH-D14, RAM- G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB Kit(4Gx4) DDR3 2133MHz, SSD/HDD- Samsung 850 EVO 250GB/Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB/Seagate Barracuada 3TB, GPU- 2x EVGA GTX980 Superclocked @1360/MHz1900MHz, Motherboard- Asus X99 Deluxe, Case- Custom Mac G5, PSU- EVGA P2-1000W, Soundcard- Realtek High Definition Audio, OS- Windows 10 Pro 64-Bit
Games: APB: Reloaded, Hours played: 3100+  System2: Late 2011 Macbook Pro 15inch   OFw63FY.png


#7 dc3

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 01:33 PM

That graphics card is compatible with your new motherboard.  I'm beginning to think that the tech thought the problem was with the motherboardk changed it and discovered that the reao problem was the graphics card.  This would explain why they told you the the card wasn't compatible with the new motherboardl

 

I would confront them with thisl

 

Did they return your old motherboard?


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#8 ZapZap

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 03:26 PM

Yes they did return my old motherboard. Now I'm pretty certain it's not the motherboard, I'm hoping I can still find the tech's number since it's been awhile. Thanks for all the help guys.

 

I do have one more question though. It was suggested to me when I first posted about the freezing problem that the issue may be a failing PSU because mine isn't a very good one and can't handle most cards. So could a failing PSU be a more possible reason why my computer freezes every time I put in the old card rather than it being directly related to the card? This is the label found on my PSU:
 

Bestec
Mode: ATX-300-12Z
INPUT: 100-127V~7A, 200-240V~4A
BSTATX-300-12Z CDR
OUPUT: +12v/ 19A, -12v/ 0.8A
300W Max +5v/30A+5v5VSB/2A
+3.3v/28A
+5V&+3.3v 180W Max 5V& +12V 288W Max

 

Thank you.


Edited by ZapZap, 12 February 2013 - 03:27 PM.


#9 dc3

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 03:51 PM

That graphics card need a PSU of at least 300W, so if your PSU is funtioning porperly that shouldn't be a problem.

 

Do you have a multimeter with a 12v scale?


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#10 ZapZap

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 03:56 PM

That graphics card need a PSU of at least 300W, so if your PSU is funtioning porperly that shouldn't be a problem.

 

Do you have a multimeter with a 12v scale?

 

I'm not sure, how would I check for that? Thank you.



#11 dc3

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 04:41 PM

If you have a voltagemeter give me the make and model and I will be able to tell you if you can use it. The article below may help you.

 


Reading PSU Rail Voltages

Caution: Please read this before continuing.


·    Since it will be necessary for your computer to be on during this procedure, you need to be aware that you will be working with live 12Volt DC potentials, which if handled improperly may lead to electrical shock.

·    There are electronics inside the case that are very susceptible to electrostatic discharges. To protect your computer, touch the metal of the case to discharge yourself of any electrostatic charges before touching any of the components inside.

·    If you are not comfortable doing this procedure, then I would suggest that you not use this tutorial. The risks involved are minimal, but are there nevertheless. Anyone who uses this tutorial will be doing so at their own risk.


There are two devices commonly used to read the rail voltages: a PSU tester, and a multimeter.

The PSU tester is the easiest to use since all that is necessary is to plug the different connectors into the tester and read the results on the LCD display. The problem with most of these is that they only perform a pass/fail test.  They will not provide you with actual voltage readings.

There are a variety of multiple meters, but this tutorial will address Analog and Digital multimeters. The advantage of these meters is that you will be able to obtain accurate real time voltage readings.

For those of you who wish to know more about multimeters there is an excellent article in Wikipedia.


Analog Multimeter




An Analog multimeter is a little more complicated to use. Both Analog and Digital multimeters need to be set to the appropriate voltage, but with an Analog multimeter, you will need to choose the voltage range and must read the proper scale.

The Analog multimeter uses a needle display which moves from 0 across the scale until it reaches the voltage being tested. This multimeter has five major linear divisions with multiple scales to read a variety of ranges. An example would be three different ranges. The first is graduated in increments of 0 through 5, the second, 0 through 10, and the third, 0 through 25. Each of these ranges are subdivided into divisions that are graduated into tenths. In order to read 12 volts the 0 through 25 range would be the appropriate one.

Because DC voltage has positive and negative potentials this device is polar sensitive, this means that if you reverse the two probes when reading a positive DC voltage it will read as a negative voltage. This is actually necessary to read negative DC voltages. The two probes are differentiated by their color, Black (negative), and Red (positive). To read a positive DC voltage, the correct probes must be used with their corresponding potentials (positive to positive and negative to negative).

With the probes being used normally to read a negative DC voltage, the needle moves from the 0 to the left, "pegging" the needle. By reversing the probes you can properly read the negative voltages.

Digital Multimeter




The Digital multimeter (DMM) is much simpler to use. As was mentioned previously, you will need to set the appropriate voltage. One of the advantages is that the DMM has an LCD display with a numeric readout, so there are not any multiple scales to read. Another advantage is that most DMMs are autoranging when reading voltages, which means that you will not need to set the range with these DMMs. A DMM will read both positive and negative DC voltages and display them correctly. When reading a negative voltage, a minus sign will appear on the display before the numeric value. This still is a polar sensitive device, so you will still need to use the positive and negative probes with their corresponding potentials.

There are five different DC rail voltages which are color coded. The Black wires are always negative.

Yellow +12VDC

Blue -12VDC

Red +5VDC

White -5VDC

Orange +3.3VDC


There are only three voltages that can be measured easily without disconnecting the 20/24 pin connector from the motherboard: +12V, +5V, and +3.3V.

The +12V and +5V voltages can be read from a four pin Molex power connector.

Four pin Molex power connector




The same voltages can be taken from a four pin SATA power connector, but in order to read the +3.3V you will need to read this from a five pin SATA power connector as seen below.

Five pin SATA power connector.



To read these voltages you will need to insert the Black (-) probe into any of the black  sockets, and insert the Red (+) probe in the different colored voltage sockets.   To read the voltages from a SATA power connector it is easiest to insert the probes into the bac k of the connector where the wires enter.  Unfortunately the sockets of the modular SATA power connectors are not accessible from the back, so the readings will need to be made from the socket side.  Some probes are going to be too large to fit in these sockets, so you may need to insert a piece of wire into the socket of which you want to read the voltage of and place the probe on this for your reading.  To reduce the potential of creating a short I would suggest taking the ground potential from another connector so that the two wires will remain physically separated.

Caution:  It is very important to make sure that you don't allow the two probes to touch each other when taking the voltage readings.  This will cause a short which could damage the PSU or other components.

To get accurate readings of the rail voltages it is important that there be a load on the PSU. In order to do this I would suggest downloading Prime95 for this purpose. This program was designed to be used by overclockers to put a full load on the RAM and CPU to determine the stability of their overclocking.  Because of this it will put stress on the CPU and RAM which will create higher than normal temperatures.  For this reason I would suggest not running this program any longer than is necessary.  I would also suggest that an inspection be made of the interior of the case to make sure that there isn’t an accumulation of dust which would impede adequate cooling.  Pay special attention to the heat sink and fan assembly on the CPU.  If there is a dedicated graphics card with a fan installed on it, look at this fan as well.      


Readings should not have variances larger than +/- five percent.  

Maximum.........Minimum
12.6V.................11.4V
5.25V.................4.75V
3.47V.................3.14V

 
 


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#12 ZapZap

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 12:58 AM

Thanks for all the help you guys. I did manage to call the tech, and hopefully this is all solved soon. Thanks again.






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