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How does this computer setup look?


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#1 Azurumi Shinji

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 04:58 AM

Hello , i am trying to build a computer that can do 95-100 percent of all games maxed out fully on high settings ( that are currently out ofc ) and if i am over killing anything that is not a problem = ) . can you see any good ways to upgrade it with out raising the cost to much?
So , how will this computer do? and is there any mistakes like a graphic card not fitting in or not enough watt or maybe some things are not compatible ?.did i forget to buy any parts? i also REALLY want the best graphic card possible for under 400 bucks....and i might not have the best one , know any that are better?
oh and i am buying the monitor some were else for 200 bucks ( full HD ) , so it is not on the list.anyways , here are the parts for my computer i am trying to build for under 2000 bucks ( 200 already down the drain thanks to the monitor )and this all adds up to about a little under 2000 bucks already.


Western Digital WD Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive

GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 AM3+ AMD 990FX SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard

HIS H797F3G2M Radeon HD 7970 3GB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card

SeaSonic X-SERIES X-1050 1050W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Active PFC ...

CORSAIR DOMINATOR GT 12GB (3 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2000 (PC3 16000) Desktop Memory with Air Fan Model

AMD FX-8150 Zambezi 3.6GHz Socket AM3+ 125W Eight-Core Desktop Processor FD8150FRGUBOX

Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 64-bit - OEM

Prolimatech PRO-PNTH 120mm Panther CPU Cooler

LG Black 14X BD-R 2X BD-RE 16X DVD+R 5X DVD-RAM 12X BD-ROM 4MB Cache SATA BDXL Blu-ray Burner, Bare Drive, 3D Play Back (WH14NS40) ... - OEM


COOLER MASTER HAF 932 Advanced RC-932-KKN5-GP Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case with USB 3.0, Black Interior and Four Fans-1x ...


Microsoft SIDEWINDER X4 Keyboard

Tt eSPORTS BLACK Laser Gaming Mouse MO-BLK002DT


Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver Thermal Compound AS5-3.5G - OEM

Arctic Silver Arcticlean Thermal material Remover & Surface Purifier ACN-60ML (2-PC-SET) - OEM

KASPERSKY lab Pure 2.0


EDIT

if i were to go intel , i would use these parts instead.

Intel BOXDQ77MK LGA 1155 Intel Q77 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard

Intel Core i5-3570 Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 2500 BX80637i53570


is this intel setup better than the amd? ( still keeping the amd graphic card until some one thinks of something better and is under 400 bucks. )

Edited by Azurumi Shinji, 30 January 2013 - 06:04 AM.


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#2 DJBPace07

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 08:39 AM

I would change a few things...

The AMD FX-8320 Vishera 3.5GHz is actually a little more efficient than the 8150 you chose for the same price. Or, if you want the best that motherboard can take, the AMD FX-8350 Vishera 4.0GHz.

I would also go for the XIGMATEK Gaia SD1283 cooler as it is less expensive and does a good job too. I use this on my FX-8150 PC to great results.

You also don't need Windows 7 Ultimate as you are probably not doing enterprise level work needing domain aware printing and EFS, just to name a few. The Professional edition would do well, or you could get Windows 8.

That power supply is overkill for one graphics card. If you think you are going to be using Crossfire/SLI in the future, I would suggest something like the SeaSonic X Series X-850. Your original graphics card would be best if you were using two overclocked graphics cards.

You also don't need the thermal compound as it comes pre-applied. If you are using an HDT-based cooler, you may want a tube of the stuff so you can apply the compound to get the most efficient contact possible. 90% Rubbing alcohol and a lint free cheesecloth will also take the place of the thermal compound remover.

You also don't need Kaspersky if you use Windows 8 as it contains Microsoft Security Essentials built-in, or, if you go with Windows 7, just download MSE for free. No security suite will ever be complete if you don't exercise common sense, as in don't download stuff from people you don't trust.

Keep in mind that all AMD-based motherboards are dual channel with DDR3-2000 being an overclocked model. For gaming, you only really need 8GB, for video editing, rendering, or scientific calculations, you should get more. Even though it is slower, the G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 would work. The difference in speed will not be noticed in real world conditions. Note that the tall heatspreaders on RAM may cause clearance issues with CPU heatsinks and fans. For maximum clearance and good speed, I would get two Mushkin Enhanced Silverline 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 RAM kits.

As for Intel or AMD, AMD's FX-8300 is about 15% faster than their FX-8100 so you should go with that. That Intel CPU is faster in many applications, but there are some caveats you need to be aware of. In gaming, the GPU takes priority at higher resolutions, so you will not see a significant difference between Intel and AMD at those resolutions. AMD is usually less expensive with the FX series of CPU's being really good at multitasking. In short, you won't go wrong with either. If you go Intel, you should get a better motherboard, that board you chose won't do multiple GPU's. Also, only LGA 2011's do PCI-E X16 speeds on two PCI-E X16 slots, when fully populated.

In terms of GPU power, your chosen card is great. In power rankings, the non GHz. version of the card would be at the bottom, followed by EVGA 02G-P4-2680-KR GeForce GTX 680 2GB, then the HIS H797QMC3G2M Radeon HD 7970 GHz Edition. The GHz. edition has a slight edge over the GTX 680.

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