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BFGR650PSU Power Supply


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#1 rickgburton

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 11:57 AM

I'm hoping someone might be able to give me instructions on how to test my PC Power supply, BFG Tech BFGR650PSU. This morning I turned on my PC and it only went as far as my motherboard home screen (Gigabyte GA-965G-GA)and froze. I pushed the power button and it immediately turned off. I removed the side panel and checked all the connections. I used an air compressor and blew out all the dust from inside the cavity and power supply. I do this once a month. This time I noticed I didn't get the dust cloud that usually comes out the back of the power supply. I pushed the power button on my computer and it went right to the same motherboard screen. I can't get it off that screen. I looked inside the PC at the power supply and noticed the fan blade was barely turning and pushing the fan boost on the back of the power supply made no difference. I'm an appliance service tech so I have a good meter and know how to use it. I just need some instructions on how to check it. The hard drive is less than a year old (WD1001FAES) no other hardware has been installed. I realize it could be something other than the power supply but because of the slow fan I figured this would be a good place to start. I can supply any other information or pictures if necessary. Thanks for your time.
Rick

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#2 rotor123

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 12:58 PM

Hi, The Power supply fan could be defective or the speed could be thermal controlled. The clue is if the Power supply gets hot or stays cool.

From Here

In this section you can see it Gives the pinouts and voltages. I suggest you measure under load.

Power supply

The ATX specification requires the power supply to produce three main outputs, +3.3 V, +5 V and +12 V. Low-power −12 V and 5 VSB (standby) supplies are also required. A −5 V output was originally required because it was supplied on the ISA bus, but it became obsolete with the removal of the ISA bus in modern PCs and has been removed in later versions of the ATX standard.

Originally, the motherboard was powered by one 20-pin connector. An ATX power supply provides a number of peripheral power connectors, and (in modern systems) two connectors for the motherboard: a 4-pin auxiliary connector providing additional power to the CPU, and a main 24-pin power supply connector, an extension of the original 20-pin version.

Gives the pinouts and voltages. I suggest you measure under load.

Good Luck
Roger

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#3 rickgburton

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 03:23 PM

Roger, thank you for the quick reply. Are you saying I should leave all the power supply connections on the hardware including the 24 pin connector on the motherboard connected and measure the voltage from the back of the connector? Can I leave my black meter lead on any of the black COM wires in the 24 pin connector when I measure the voltage at the different pins in that connector? In your opinion, does this sound like a power supply issue or something else? Could it be a motherboard issue? Don't worry, I won't hold you to it. When I turn on my PC it shows the gigabyte main screen and nothing I do will get me off that screen.

#4 rotor123

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 03:46 PM

If you can't even get into the BIOS setup then it sounds like hardware. I believe the case is ground. The reason for leaving the power supply hooked up is to put it under a full load. I've seen them pass with no load and fail under a load.

Also in most power supplies all the 12volt lines are tied together inside the power supply as are the other voltages. So once you measured one you measured all of that voltage. There are some higher end power supplies that have more than one 12volt rail. Usually the more expensive ones.

Roger

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#5 rickgburton

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 04:16 PM

If you can't even get into the BIOS setup then it sounds like hardware.

Thanks again Roger. No, I can't even get into BIOS set up. Hardware like the power supply or motherboard?

The reason for leaving the power supply hooked up is to put it under a full load.

OK, I'll leave all the power supply connections connected and measure from the back side of the connector.

So once you measured one you measured all of that voltage.

Good to know! OK, I'll connect the black meter lead to the case and measure for +3.3V at pin 1, +5V at pin 4, +12V at pin 10, and -12V at pin 14. Does that sound correct to you? Thanks again Roger. I appreciate your help. I see you're from Jersey. I'm originally from Hunterdon County. Small World

#6 rotor123

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 04:52 PM

It is a older motherboard? If so also look at the capacitors, The ones near the CPU and Memory slots and between the add on and video card slots.

You can see examples of bad ones at http://www.badcaps.net/
And Identifying Bad Capacitors and Related Symptoms

Your problem is sounding like that could be the problem, However low voltages could do weird things too

Good Luck
Roger

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#7 rickgburton

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 07:20 PM

Well, I think you nailed it. It is an older motherboard and from what I've read so far it doesn't sound like a power supply issue. Unfortunately almost everything else is fairly new so I guess I have some big decisions to make. If I replace the motherboard I'll need to replace the processor and RAM too. It's a big expense I can't afford right now. Thanks again for your help Roger.

#8 rotor123

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 08:50 PM

If you can post good pictures of the board it might be helpful. Unless you do see bulging and leaking capacitors. Then Badcaps forums could help replacing them.

Roger

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#9 rickgburton

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 09:43 PM

I can post some pictures. I couldn't see anything obvious on the motherboard. Should I remove the motherboard from the case to get better pictures? I guess I'm going to have to anyways. I can get this motherboard: ASUS P8Z77-V LK LGA 1155 Intel Z77 and This processor: Intel Core i5-3570K Quad-Core Processor 3.4 GHz for $380 at Newegg.com. I would still have to get some RAM but the rest of my hardware should be compatible I think. My video card is G-force 9800GT; 2 WD Hard Drives 1 terabyte black caviar and 320 GIG green caviar; hp dvd1270 disc/optical drive; Dynex card reader; and lynksys wireless adapter and the 650 watt power supply. The only one I'm not sure about is my sound card. It's as old as the motherboard but it's a great sound card Sound Blaster X-Fi Platinum PCIE. What's your thoughts? Thanks I'm taking the Gigabyte motherboard out now.

#10 rotor123

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 09:51 PM

It is your decision to replace or try and repair. Do you have a need to go to that fast processor?

I would also try using one piece of memory at a time and test before spending that money, but then I'm frugal. Does the old motherboard have built-in video you can test with?

Also if you have been running Vista or Windows 7 they most likely will need to be re-installed

Cheers
Roger

Edited by rotor123, 04 September 2012 - 09:52 PM.

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#11 rickgburton

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 11:01 PM

I would much rather repair than replace. They don't make that Gigabyte motherboard any longer and I know nothing about how much speed I need. Here's my situation; I own Ricks Appliance Repair and all my Service and Customer information along with my invoices are on that hard drive. I backed everything up about about 8 months ago so I still have most of it. I do basically the same thing you do only on these web sites: http://www.applianceblog.com and http://www.appliancejunk.com. I have 150 gigabytes of service manuals and tech sheets and repair videos I made that I didn't back up. (I know. I learned the hard way) That's also a source of income for me so I need to access that information. I thought about sending Badcaps my motherboard, average repair $70 but even if I pay the extra $25 for "Rush" it's 10 to 15 days. I don't think I can go that long. I'm not a big gamer but I watch, make, and edit videos on my computer. I also super multi task so I was trying to find something comparable to what I have now. I'm running Windows 7 64 bit. I have two daughters 13 and 14 that use it for school work also. I'm still working on removing the all the hardware and motherboard to take some pictures. Thanks Roger!

#12 rickgburton

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Posted 05 September 2012 - 08:10 PM

OK, I wasn't sure what kind of angle you wanted. I couldn't find anything obvious. I need to remove the CPU fan to check those by the processor. Oops the pictures are too big. I'll need to resize

#13 rickgburton

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Posted 05 September 2012 - 08:23 PM

OK if you need a different view let me know

Attached Files



#14 rotor123

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Posted 06 September 2012 - 09:39 AM

It looks like a nice board with Poly capacitors, The longest lived ones. I don't see any of the more troublesome electrolytics.

Have you tried it with one piece of memory at a time? Test, switch, test til all four have been tried?

Has the board got built in video you use to test?

What happens if you unplug everything (Includes drives) but the keyboard and video and use a screwdriver to momentarily close the power switch connection?

I'm running out of things to try, If I had it in front of me I'd pull out my trusty test power supply and test video card and see if that helps.

Were the power supply voltages OK?

Roger

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#15 dpunisher

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Posted 06 September 2012 - 10:23 AM

It looks like a nice board with Poly capacitors, The longest lived ones. I don't see any of the more troublesome electrolytics.


I do realize it is a bit off topic.

Just a little FYI: Got a call last month from a restaurant with 3 HP slimline desktops in a POS system. 1 slim was OK, one rebooted every hour or two, the other was dead. Took the dead one first and the PSU(mini ATX about the size of a 1U PSU) was dead. Opened it up and it was mostly polymer caps (I thought) and a few elctrolytics. You don't usually run into poly caps on PSUs, especially OEM stuff. Started to look real close and those "poly" caps were swollen on the top. At the base a couple had started to push off of the rubber plugs where the wires are. Ended up replacing two of the PSUs.

Some company is making electrolytics that are dead ringers for poly caps. Those HPs were about 5 years old so who knows how many caps are in the wild. Could not find any markings/numbers on the cases at all. Not really worried about top tier board makers and their caps, but you never know with OEM builders.

I am a retired Ford tech. Next to Fords, any computer is a piece of cake. (The cake, its not a lie)

3770K @4.5, Corsair H100, GTX780, 16gig Samsung, Obsidian 700 (yes there is a 700)





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