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Power Supply / Start Up Issue


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#1 splaty

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Posted 13 June 2012 - 02:42 PM

I'm hoping someone can help me with this issue or has had this issue happen to them before.

I built my own computer and I have a Thermaltake Tr2 600 w power supply. My computer will only sometimes start on. It's hard to explain but I can only get it to start SOMETIMES if I unplug the AC Cord and flip the I/O switch from off to on a few times. And even then sometimes that doesn't work.
Right now after taking the power cord out and plugging it back in about 100 times I finally got my computer on. So my power supply obviously isn't completely failing because it's currently working?
I thought it might be some security device on my PSU so I tried just have the power supply plugged into the outlet and not having anything else plugged into the same outlet but that didn't work either.
It's a really annoying problem.. I mean.. at least my computer is functional but this is really starting to make me want to throw it out of a window. Help!

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#2 rotor123

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Posted 13 June 2012 - 03:26 PM

It sounds like it could be the power supply to me, I'm sure others will chip in.

Til then, is this your power supply Thermaltake TR2 W0388RU 600W ATX 12V v2.2 Power Supply?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153114

Read the reviews. 5 eggs 45%, 4 Eggs 16%, 3 eggs 5%, 2 eggs 7% and 1 egg 28%

Pros: Thermaltake quality, well....normally. The brand in general, but this PSU is a dud. A good amount of SATA pwr connections along with 4-pin connections.

Cons: Didn't really last long. Pretty much bad out of the box.


Cons: garbage! had this psu for only 1 month to the day and its completely dead. thermaltake really let me down on this one


I suggest that if you can borrow a power supply to test, that will give a definitive answer beyond the poor reviews

Just as an heads up I'm replacing a HP/Compaq power supply right now for a similar problem. This model has a power light that lights up until you press the power button and then it goes off until you unplug and replug the AC. Sound familiar?
It is running like a champ right now with a test power supply as replacement.

Roger

Edited by rotor123, 13 June 2012 - 03:29 PM.

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#3 splaty

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 01:19 PM

I had put in a different power supply and the problem stopped... but this is a brand new hard drive. I actually had the thermaltake tr2 one replaced when the problem first happened (it was still under warranty) and they gave me a brand new one and the problem is still happening. which makes me think it is a security issue or something?
i will never ever buy thermaltake again but i dont want to buy a new one if i dont have to...

#4 rotor123

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 02:10 PM

Hi
Does anything appear on the screen and the does the power light light up when you turn it on?
If not can you unplug the power switch from the motheboard and try a momentary jump of the two pins and see if it turns on that way? I use a small screwdriver.
Does the motherboard have a light on it and what happens to that light when you try and turn it on?

How long have you had the brand new replacement? New does not always mean not broken.

The only thing I can think of that you might think of as a security thing in a power supply is that they have a safety feature that will prevent them from turning on if overloaded.

Good Luck
Roger

Edited by rotor123, 14 June 2012 - 02:12 PM.

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#5 Artrooks

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 02:33 PM

Right now after taking the power cord out and plugging it back in about 100 times I finally got my computer on.



Is the A/C cord new or have you had it for a while? Maybe the cord has been damaged. Try a replacement. If you don't have one handy, they're not expense.

Regards,
Brooks



 


#6 rotor123

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 02:59 PM

Right now after taking the power cord out and plugging it back in about 100 times I finally got my computer on.



Is the A/C cord new or have you had it for a while? Maybe the cord has been damaged. Try a replacement. If you don't have one handy, they're not expense.


Good Catch :thumbsup:

However it may not need the purchase of a new cord. Simply swap the Monitor and computer power cords and see if the problem follows the cord or stays put.

Roger

Edited by rotor123, 14 June 2012 - 03:00 PM.

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#7 splaty

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 09:40 AM

Right now after taking the power cord out and plugging it back in about 100 times I finally got my computer on.



Is the A/C cord new or have you had it for a while? Maybe the cord has been damaged. Try a replacement. If you don't have one handy, they're not expense.


I have two power cords and the problem persists with both of them. The strange thing is, I had to take my computer to school to show for a project and I had it in my kitchen and it seemed to be powering on and off completely fine when i had it plugged into the outlet in my kitchen. So that's what led me to believe it was a problem with the outlet being overloaded (the one in my room it is normally in) and it was a security feature kicking in. But I unplugged everythign else in the outlet and just had the computer power cord plugged but it still happens. It's so strange. I will probably just end up buying a different PSU when I get some extra cash.

The first time I sent the PSU back (it has a 5 yr warranty and was still under warranty) I had to pay for shipping. So it has already cost me a lot of money. Thermaltake is just an awful company.

#8 rotor123

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 09:59 AM

Hello
Can you double test the computer elsewhere? or run a long extension cord? If it is reliable elsewhere I would stop using that outlet. I would then get a inexpensive outlet tester. They typical test for open neutral, open ground, and reversed polarity. I would also want to check the voltage at the outlet to be sure it matches the voltage elsewhere in the house.

Did it operate OK at school as well as in the kitchen?

I knew someone that replaced his computer power supply once a month. After testing the outlet and it failed a electrician was brought in to repair it. No more monthly power supply deaths.

For what its worth a overloaded outlet should pop the circuit breaker or blow the fuse in an older home. If loading it within the fuse or breakers rating was causing a voltage drop that would indicate a wiring fault and any light plugged into it would also dim.

Bottom line test it on a different outlet in a different room and see how it works that way before buying another power supply.

If you find a problem in the electrical circuit call an electrician. These voltage can kill or it could start a fire.

I await your feedback
Roger

Edited by rotor123, 15 June 2012 - 12:51 PM.

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#9 buddy215

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 12:26 PM

QUOTE: The strange thing is, I had to take my computer to school to show for a project and I had it in my kitchen and it seemed to be powering on and off completely fine when i had it plugged into the outlet in my kitchen.

That says it all.....pull the outlet and check for loose wires....if none there then change the outlet

Check the wire from outlet at the breaker....if loose, tighten...if not and replacing the outlet did not fix the problem
then replace the breaker or fuse.

Not unusual for outlet to become unusable or breaker to go bad. While in the breaker box look for burned insulation on
wiring. Heck, I've seen wires glowing red.
“Every atom in your body came from a star that exploded and the atoms in your left hand probably came from a different star than your right hand. It really is the most poetic thing I know about physics...you are all stardust.”Lawrence M. Krauss
A 1792 U.S. penny, designed in part by Thomas Jefferson and George Washington, reads “Liberty Parent of Science & Industry.”

#10 rotor123

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 01:17 PM

Buddy215 are you aware just how dangerous your instructions are?

The way they are written a person could assume that they can just pull the screws and pull the outlet or the breaker box cover without removing the AC.
No mention of switching off the breaker for that outlet or switching the mains off. I worked for an electrician for a while years ago and have a brother in the IBEW and another that does factory maintenance. We could do this and have done this safely.

Splaty unless you have an electrician in the family that can do that sort of thing do not do it. Mains voltage can kill.

I await to hear the results of your testing.

Roger

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#11 buddy215

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 02:58 PM

I know how unsafe it can be changing power supplies. For both the mechanic and the hardware.
I know how loose wiring, bad outlets, bad breakers, overloaded/ improperly fused circuits can cause house fires and do many times a day.

My point was that if computer works just fine when plugged into other outlets then the most obvious cause can be
corrected by doing what I said.

I also know that wattage/ amperage kills...not voltage. :)
“Every atom in your body came from a star that exploded and the atoms in your left hand probably came from a different star than your right hand. It really is the most poetic thing I know about physics...you are all stardust.”Lawrence M. Krauss
A 1792 U.S. penny, designed in part by Thomas Jefferson and George Washington, reads “Liberty Parent of Science & Industry.”

#12 rotor123

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 03:22 PM

I know how unsafe it can be changing power supplies. For both the mechanic and the hardware.
I know how loose wiring, bad outlets, bad breakers, overloaded/ improperly fused circuits can cause house fires and do many times a day.

My point was that if computer works just fine when plugged into other outlets then the most obvious cause can be
corrected by doing what I said.

I also know that wattage/ amperage kills...not voltage. :)


True but 120 to 240 volts will make you sorry you ever grabbed it.

I guess what I was trying to get at is if instructions like that are being given they should also include safety precautions such as switch the breaker off first and use insulated tools.

Does that clarify any?

I stopped using a outlet in the basement that was defective. It was getting very warm with just a fan plugged into it. One of these days when My brother can help move the furniture that is obstructing it I'll change it but til then it remains unused. I suspect it would even pass the test of a simple three prong outlet tester due to no load.

Splaty: that is another test, does the outlet get warm or hot when in use? If so please stop using it.

Roger

Edited by rotor123, 15 June 2012 - 03:27 PM.

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#13 Layback Bear

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Posted 16 June 2012 - 10:28 AM

1. Don't mess with your A/C outlets or wiring unless you know what you are doing, it can kill you.
2. A unused bad outlet can still cause a fire.
3. Have it repaired by a professional now is my suggestion.

#14 rotor123

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Posted 16 June 2012 - 11:02 AM

Which reminds me I really should check to see if that outlet is still warm unused as power could be feeding into it and back out to somewhere else even though it is at the other end of the house from the breaker box.

Thanks for jogging my memory.
Roger

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#15 splaty

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Posted 16 June 2012 - 12:55 PM

Well I tried a different outlet in my room (ran an extension cord) and the problem still persisted. So unless all the outlets in my room are bad (which I can plug other things into the outlet such as my phone charger, laptop cord, etc and it is fine). It really is a weird issue. I'm moving out of my house and into an apartment on August 1st so for now I'm mainly using my laptop and then once I move into my apt I'm hoping the problem will go away with a new outlet. I wish I could somehow just get my money back on the PSU and go buy a better brand. I thought maybe it had something to do with static, because my computer is standing on top of carpet so I put a piece of anti-static film-type stuff under my computer. I also put a piece of cardboard in between my mobo and the computer case but this morning when i went to turn the computer on the problem was still there.
Could it be that my two power cords can't handle my PSU? it's a 600w PSU and I think both of the power cords say on them 125V which is 125 volts, correct? I can double check on that but maybe I just need a different power cord that can handle the high wattage?




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