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New power supply now pc won't start!!!


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#1 npisvaj87

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Posted 17 April 2012 - 12:10 PM

I recently installed a new power supply. I checked and double checked every wire and they were all installed correctly. When I turn it on, the fans and everything turns on except the computer doesn't boot up. It boots up for like 2 seconds then everything shuts off again. Anyone know what's wrong?

EDIT: The reason I had to replace the power supply was because my old one just died on me. My PC shut off out of no where so I'm not sure if the old power supply took anything else out with it.

EDIT: Seems like everything boots up, all the lights turn on, but nothing on the screen and the CD drive won't respond when I push the button for it to open.

Edited by npisvaj87, 17 April 2012 - 01:45 PM.


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#2 the_patriot11

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Posted 18 April 2012 - 06:44 PM

When a computer begins the boot process the motherboard initiates the start up of the PSU. Because of this it is difficult to determine whether the problem is with the motherboard or the PSU when a computer shows no signs of starting up. The purpose of the procedure is to determine if the problem is with the motherboard or the PSU. For safety purposes please follow the instructions step by step.

This test is for ATX PSUs. Some manufacturers use non-ATX PSUs with 20/24 pin connectors that do not have the same pinout as a ATX PSU.

Caution:
This procedure will involve working with live 12VDC electrical potentials which if handled improperly may lead to electrical shock. Proper precautions should also be taken to prevent electrostatic discharges (ESDs) within the case of the computer. For safety purposes please follow the instructions step by step.

First, shutdown your computer. Then unplug the power cable going into your computer.

Once you have opened the case, touch the metal of the case to discharge any static electricity.

The connector of the PSU which connects to the motherboard is readily recognizable by the number of wires in the bundle. To disconnect it you will need to press on the plastic clip to disengage it and then pull the connector up and away from the motherboard. Please take notice of the location of the locking tab and the notch on the socket of the motherboard, this will only connect one way as it is keyed. This wire bundle will have a memory of the way it has been installed and will want to bend back that direction, you may have to play around with it to find a position that the connector will stay in the same position while you run the test.

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From the top left to right the pins are 13-24, the bottom from left to right are 1-12.


Please notice that there are PSUs with 24 pin and 20 pin connectors, the location of the green wire in the 24 pin connector is #16, and the green wire in the 20 pin connector is #14. If you look at the connector with socket side facing you and the clip on the top the number one pin will be on the bottom left corner. This makes the pin out for the 24 pin connector from left to right 13-24 on top, and 1-12 on the bottom. The pin out for the 20 pin connector from left to right is 11-20 on top , and 1-10 on the bottom. If you look at the connectors you notice that these are sockets that fit over the pins on the motherboard where the PSU cable attaches, this is where you will place the jumper. For a jumper you will need a piece of solid wire about the size of a paper clip (20-22 awg), preferably a wire with insulation. It will need to be large enough to fit firmly into the socket so that it will not need to be held in place while testing. You are at risk of electrical shock if you are holding the jumper when you power up the PSU. Insert one end of the jumper into the socket of the Green wire, and insert the other end into the socket of any Black wire.

Once the jumper is in place plug the cord back in. If the PSU is working properly the case fans, optical drives, hdds, and LEDs should power up and remain on. I would suggest that you not leave this connected any longer than is necessary for safety purposes.

To reconnect the 20/4 pin connector unplug the power cord, remove the jumper, and reconnect the connector. Take a moment at this time to make sure that nothing has been dislodged inside the case

picard5.jpg

 

Primary system: Motherboard: ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3, Processor: AMD Phenom II x4 945, Memory: 16 gigs of Patriot G2 DDR3 1600, Video: AMD Sapphire Nitro R9 380, Storage: 1 WD 500 gig HD, 1 Hitachi 500 gig HD, and Power supply: Coolermaster 750 watt, OS: Windows 10 64 bit. 

Media Center: Motherboard: Gigabyte mp61p-S3, Processor: AMD Athlon 64 x2 6000+, Memory: 6 gigs Patriot DDR2 800, Video: Gigabyte GeForce GT730, Storage: 500 gig Hitachi, PSU: Seasonic M1211 620W full modular, OS: Windows 10.

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#3 rotor123

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Posted 19 April 2012 - 10:58 AM

Hi,
How did you determine that the old power supply was bad?
Substitution as a test doesn't seem to have worked.

Did you try a power supply tester?
Did you test the old power supply in another computer.

Did you buy the power supply locally at a computer store where they actually do hardware repairs? If so you could go back with the new one and have them test it. New is not always good sometimes you can get a DOA.

Good Luck
Roger

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#4 npisvaj87

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Posted 24 April 2012 - 12:56 PM

My computer wasn't connected to a breaker when it shut off. In the process, I smelled something burning.

When I connect the new power supply, all the fans work just that the computer won't boot up. I recently replaced the motherboard and now it's working. Bios boots up but it can't detect my hard drive (using the old hard drive with new motherboard). The light on the CD drive lights up but when I click the switch to open it won't open. Could it be that it took my CD drive out too?

Sorry, it's my first time booting up a new mother board so I have no idea what it's suppose to do.

#5 the_patriot11

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Posted 24 April 2012 - 08:37 PM

Its very possible-if the power supply fried, it has the potential of frying every component in the machine-if it fried the motherboard it may have also fried the hard drive and the CD drive.

picard5.jpg

 

Primary system: Motherboard: ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3, Processor: AMD Phenom II x4 945, Memory: 16 gigs of Patriot G2 DDR3 1600, Video: AMD Sapphire Nitro R9 380, Storage: 1 WD 500 gig HD, 1 Hitachi 500 gig HD, and Power supply: Coolermaster 750 watt, OS: Windows 10 64 bit. 

Media Center: Motherboard: Gigabyte mp61p-S3, Processor: AMD Athlon 64 x2 6000+, Memory: 6 gigs Patriot DDR2 800, Video: Gigabyte GeForce GT730, Storage: 500 gig Hitachi, PSU: Seasonic M1211 620W full modular, OS: Windows 10.

If I don't reply within 24 hours of your reply, feel free to send me a pm.


#6 rotor123

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Posted 25 April 2012 - 11:39 AM

I have to agree, My own brother had the experience back in the Pentium days. The power supply took out everything. There was nothing salvageable except the physical case. The failed power supply ate every drive, memory, motherboard, CPU, Video card and modem.

In your case it sounds as it were not that catastrophic as the memory and CPU are OK.

Try one drive on one cable. Make sure the drive jumpers are set right. On a 80 wire 40 pin cable usually the drive is set to CS (Cable Select)

Make sure the proper end is on the motherboard and the drive. Usually the Blue end goes to the motherboard. The other end of the cable which should have two connectors near each other you use the last connector on the cable.

That applies to IDE drives and cables.

If you have SATA then it is one cable one drive.

Good Luck
Roger

Fortune Cookie says: Fortune not Found: Abort, Retry, Ignore?

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How Does a computer get Infected? http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/t/2520/how-did-i-get-infected/
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