Posted 01 November 2011 - 04:28 PM
You have a hardware failure. The nature of the failure could be either electronic or mechanical.
Your situation may have a bright spot in that you didn't hear the "click of death", and the error is detected immediately on bootup. Usually a mechanical error will allow the drive to be detected in the BIOS, but either won't boot, or throw a hard drive error/no OS found. On the other hand, a bad controller board often won't even be detected by the BIOS.
If you have the time and desire: Shop around for a duplicate of your drive. Google the model number, see what is available. I have bought drives that had bad heads/platters/motors, but the controller boards were in good shape. Be aware that the controller board, and often the firmware revisions need to match as well. I have saved every drive I ever pulled from clients' systems. Laptop drives are especially prone to problems as they generally get banged around, and that kills heads/platters, but lets the electronics survive. If the controller boards are the same, even if the firmware is different, you might luck out for cheap.
Pro data recovery can run from $300 to swap controller boards and save data in the format of your choice to $1K+ to pull the drive apart in a clean room and swap platters.
Something else you can do is reflow/resolder all of the joints on the circuit board of the controller. Hard drives heat cycle, they vibrate, and that can play havoc on solder joints. Just using a small/cheap iron to melt/reflow what you can get to (be careful of SMD devices). A heatgun can reflow SMD/ICs.
I am a retired Ford tech. Next to Fords, any computer is a piece of cake. (The cake, its not a lie)
3770K @4.5, Corsair H100, GTX780, 16gig Samsung, Obsidian 700 (yes there is a 700)