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Budget Build for mild gaming, etc.


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#1 peacemak3r

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Posted 31 August 2011 - 06:41 PM

Hey everyone, wasn't satisfied with my other build and gave it to my little brother.

I'm looking for a new build that can probably handle the upcoming Battlefield 3, CoD: Modern Warfare 3. Also some casual gaming of StarCraft II and the upcoming Diablo 3 as well. I would love to play those games in Medium+ settings.

Now to the specifications; I would like to know is it possible to run the graphics card to monitor running a HDMI cable instead of those older types of wires? If yes then I would prefer that over the wires. I've been getting some blurred problems using those type of wires because it gets slightly dusty in the basement and I figured the HDMI cables would be safer. I basically need everything down to the monitor, preferably a 20" LCD+ using HDMI. I would like to use only one card oppose from a SLi or Crossfire. And for the case, I would like something with good wire management. Also can I get some input on SSD drives (Like what's their benefit, would it be better to run the OS on it or just games?)

Um, thanks about all I guess, I'll just ask questions and take advice from here on out. Also my budget would be in the $6-700 range at the moment, it may increase but I would like to keep a lower budget if possible.

Thanks BleepingComputer!

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#2 killerx525

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Posted 01 September 2011 - 02:11 AM

This might be a pretty tight build since your including the monitor and the other peripherals

>Michael 
System1: CPU- Intel Core i7-5820K @ 4.4GHz, CPU Cooler- Noctua NH-D14, RAM- G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB Kit(4Gx4) DDR3 2133MHz, SSD/HDD- Samsung 850 EVO 250GB/Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB/Seagate Barracuada 3TB, GPU- 2x EVGA GTX980 Superclocked @1360/MHz1900MHz, Motherboard- Asus X99 Deluxe, Case- Custom Mac G5, PSU- EVGA P2-1000W, Soundcard- Realtek High Definition Audio, OS- Windows 10 Pro 64-Bit
Games: APB: Reloaded, Hours played: 3100+  System2: Late 2011 Macbook Pro 15inch   OFw63FY.png


#3 peacemak3r

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Posted 01 September 2011 - 09:08 AM

Oh wait, you are definitely right! My bad, The $600-700 budget was meant for the hardware only, not the monitor, keyboard and mouse. I would probably recycle the keyboard/mouse from my other rig. The monitor would be definitely last at the moment. So if you do have a recommendation for the monitor do share with it. But the budget I gave before was meant for the build itself and not the other stuff.

#4 DJBPace07

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Posted 01 September 2011 - 06:23 PM

You will also probably not be able to use an SSD with that budget. SSD's will help with starting the PC faster, power, and heat generation, but they are expensive. Here's a build suggestion:

Case: COOLER MASTER HAF 922 RC-922M-KKN1-GP - This is a great mid-ATX case, good for mid-level gaming builds. If you are going to use large graphics cards (69xx or larger) or multiple GPU's, you may want to consider a full ATX case. $79

Motherboard: ASUS M5A97 AM3+ AMD 970 - This is part of the new AMD 9 series chipsets, these support UEFI BIOS, upcoming Bulldozer FX CPU's, USB 3.0, and allow for both SLI and Crossfire. Like all AMD x70 chipsets, this one is basic, meant for builds not using more than one graphics card. If you want that functionality, go for a 990FX-based motherboard, like Asus' Sabertooth. $99

CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition Deneb 3.2GHz - This is a quad core CPU with a decent clock. Since the FX CPU's aren't out yet, you can use AM3 CPU's until then. Because this CPU is so inexpensive, you can use this until those come out. Or, since with most games, the GPU is used more heavily used, this will still last a while even if you have no intention of upgrading to the FX CPU's for a while. $119

GPU: XFX HD-687A-ZDFC Radeon HD 6870 1GB - This is an an upper mid-level card and should be more than adequate for "Medium" settings in most games. It even comes with a coupon for Deus Ex. Your case will just barely fit this card. It's about as long as a 5850 and that is roughly ten inches. $184 (Before $30 mail-in rebate)

Power Supply: ENERMAX NAXN ENP550AWT 550W - Enermax makes some pretty good power supplies and this should do well. However, if you see yourself going with Crossfire or SLI, you may want to consider a 650W or greater unit. $64

RAM: CORSAIR 4GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 - This is a single 4GB stick of RAM, which is enough for most people. If you keep tons of windows or tabs open, or do other memory-intensive tasks like video editing, you may want to get 8GB or two of these kits. $23

Hard Drive: Western Digital Caviar Black WD7502AAEX 750GB - This should be enough space. $58

ODD: Sony Optiarc CD/DVD Burner Black SATA Model AD-7260S-0B - This is a simple, basic drive. $20

OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit OEM - You need this, however, if you backup to a NAS or need domain aware printing, you should consider the Professional edition. $99

(Optional) Monitor: Asus VH238H Black 23" - This is an LED backlit monitor that takes HDMI and DVI. You don't really need HDMI on a computer monitor unless you have more than one or want to pass audio. DVI and HDMI are both digital and nearly the same, with the exception of connectors and audio. $179

Grand Total: $752 (Before shipping, taxes, and rebates and does not include the monitor)

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#5 peacemak3r

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Posted 01 September 2011 - 06:54 PM

I guess to save money, I can recycle my own DVD Drives and I already own a Windows 7 Professional CD (Unless they can only be installed per computer.)

The reason I ask for HDMI and the cable comparisons is because my other rig had a slight fading, ghosting problem. I've posted this on this forum as well and I couldn't get a solid answer. I've updated the drivers and cleaned the dust out the connectors and the problem consistently returned after a week or so. I would have though HDMI cables would fix that problem.

Thanks for the recommendations, I will definitely put them in mind!

#6 killerx525

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Posted 02 September 2011 - 08:17 AM

A copy of Windows can only used once a time if it is a retail copy. If your DVD Drives are SATA then yes you can reuse them.

>Michael 
System1: CPU- Intel Core i7-5820K @ 4.4GHz, CPU Cooler- Noctua NH-D14, RAM- G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB Kit(4Gx4) DDR3 2133MHz, SSD/HDD- Samsung 850 EVO 250GB/Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB/Seagate Barracuada 3TB, GPU- 2x EVGA GTX980 Superclocked @1360/MHz1900MHz, Motherboard- Asus X99 Deluxe, Case- Custom Mac G5, PSU- EVGA P2-1000W, Soundcard- Realtek High Definition Audio, OS- Windows 10 Pro 64-Bit
Games: APB: Reloaded, Hours played: 3100+  System2: Late 2011 Macbook Pro 15inch   OFw63FY.png


#7 peacemak3r

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Posted 02 September 2011 - 09:08 AM

I previously bought the Windows 7 Professional for System Builders CD, would that be the retail version? Crap so I do need to buy another one?

#8 killerx525

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Posted 02 September 2011 - 09:25 AM

System builders copy is usually OEM. You will have to buy another copy of windows but this timw get home premium, it's cheaper and suits your needs.

>Michael 
System1: CPU- Intel Core i7-5820K @ 4.4GHz, CPU Cooler- Noctua NH-D14, RAM- G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB Kit(4Gx4) DDR3 2133MHz, SSD/HDD- Samsung 850 EVO 250GB/Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB/Seagate Barracuada 3TB, GPU- 2x EVGA GTX980 Superclocked @1360/MHz1900MHz, Motherboard- Asus X99 Deluxe, Case- Custom Mac G5, PSU- EVGA P2-1000W, Soundcard- Realtek High Definition Audio, OS- Windows 10 Pro 64-Bit
Games: APB: Reloaded, Hours played: 3100+  System2: Late 2011 Macbook Pro 15inch   OFw63FY.png


#9 DJBPace07

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Posted 02 September 2011 - 04:59 PM

You must have a full, boxed, retail version of Windows 7 to port it from computer to computer. OEM or System Builder versions are not eligible due to licensing restrictions. However, there is no technical reason you cannot install it and do a manual activation should online activation fail. Your ghosting problem could be monitor related too, HDMI and DVI are both digital and nearly identical so don't worry too much about whether or not you are going to use DVI or HDMI. VGA or D-Sub connections are analog and prone to interference.

To save even more money, you can do the following:

Reuse your old case, but make sure it can handle a graphics card over ten inches long.
Reuse your old HDD, do this only if the drives are SATA and under three years old.
Reuse your old ODD if it is SATA.
Downgrade the CPU to an Athlon X4 if you are really trying to cut corners.
Downgrade the GPU to a 6850 or 6770 if you absolutely have to, remember, games put more load on these than CPU's.

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#10 killerx525

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Posted 02 September 2011 - 05:44 PM

You must have a full, boxed, retail version of Windows 7 to port it from computer to computer. OEM or System Builder versions are not eligible due to licensing restrictions. However, there is no technical reason you cannot install it and do a manual activation should online activation fail. Your ghosting problem could be monitor related too, HDMI and DVI are both digital and nearly identical so don't worry too much about whether or not you are going to use DVI or HDMI. VGA or D-Sub connections are analog and prone to interference.

To save even more money, you can do the following:

Reuse your old case, but make sure it can handle a graphics card over ten inches long.
Reuse your old HDD, do this only if the drives are SATA and under three years old.
Reuse your old ODD if it is SATA.
Downgrade the CPU to an Athlon X4 if you are really trying to cut corners.
Downgrade the GPU to a 6850 or 6770 if you absolutely have to, remember, games put more load on these than CPU's.

That's one heck of a cut down.

>Michael 
System1: CPU- Intel Core i7-5820K @ 4.4GHz, CPU Cooler- Noctua NH-D14, RAM- G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB Kit(4Gx4) DDR3 2133MHz, SSD/HDD- Samsung 850 EVO 250GB/Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB/Seagate Barracuada 3TB, GPU- 2x EVGA GTX980 Superclocked @1360/MHz1900MHz, Motherboard- Asus X99 Deluxe, Case- Custom Mac G5, PSU- EVGA P2-1000W, Soundcard- Realtek High Definition Audio, OS- Windows 10 Pro 64-Bit
Games: APB: Reloaded, Hours played: 3100+  System2: Late 2011 Macbook Pro 15inch   OFw63FY.png


#11 DJBPace07

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Posted 02 September 2011 - 07:00 PM

Which is why I don't suggest doing it if at all possible.

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#12 peacemak3r

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Posted 02 September 2011 - 07:31 PM

I'm really appreciating these tips! I most likely need to buy everything new except for the hard-drive with my current Windows 7 installed already. Hopefully I can cut corners with just that. I'm guessing the monitor may be the issue to, I really can't recall when I really bought it. I'm already leaning towards the current setup that you've recommended for the time being, but I might just up the budget to $1000 before shipping/taxes/rebates so I don't have to upgrade for another few years.

#13 DJBPace07

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Posted 03 September 2011 - 05:36 PM

If you are going for $1000, wait until the end of September when, hopefully, AMD's new Bulldozer CPU's come out. Those fit more into this price range. If you don't, or can't, wait until then, upgrade the case and graphics card.

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#14 killerx525

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Posted 03 September 2011 - 07:32 PM

Or the case and power supply.

>Michael 
System1: CPU- Intel Core i7-5820K @ 4.4GHz, CPU Cooler- Noctua NH-D14, RAM- G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB Kit(4Gx4) DDR3 2133MHz, SSD/HDD- Samsung 850 EVO 250GB/Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB/Seagate Barracuada 3TB, GPU- 2x EVGA GTX980 Superclocked @1360/MHz1900MHz, Motherboard- Asus X99 Deluxe, Case- Custom Mac G5, PSU- EVGA P2-1000W, Soundcard- Realtek High Definition Audio, OS- Windows 10 Pro 64-Bit
Games: APB: Reloaded, Hours played: 3100+  System2: Late 2011 Macbook Pro 15inch   OFw63FY.png


#15 DJBPace07

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Posted 03 September 2011 - 09:33 PM

You don't really need to upgrade the power supply unless you get an X2 card or plan to Crossfire, the Radeon 6950 needs 500W.

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