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System Will Not Boot


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#1 assassin8er

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Posted 12 May 2011 - 08:23 PM

I have had my computer for about a year and a half now. It has worked really well. I love my computer.

This morning however, I woke up and attempted to boot my computer. But, it stared at me, glared with red glowing fans and said quiet stubbornly "no!". I don't know what the problem is. We used to be such good friends.

The problem is almost identical to what happens if you remove your 4/8 pin PSU power cord from your motherboard (speaking from experience). The fans spin and light up (even those on the CPU and GPU) but nothing else happens. I have a speaker on my computer and beep it did not.

So far I have taken these steps:
  • Removed all components except CPU, Motherboard and GPU and attempted to boot. The problem persisted.
  • Had a friend come over with a similar computer and tested my CPU in his computer to attempt to determine the problem. His computer did not boot with the CPU in it, however I do not know if his motherboard supported the CPU. The problem persisted.
  • Attempted using only a single stick of RAM (I have 2 2gig sticks). The problem persisted.
  • Unplugged the 8Pin connecter from my Motherboard. The Problem Persisted.

I believe the problem to be related to the PSU as it is very similar to an earlier problem I had with it. I have seen ways of testing my 20/24 pin connector by creating a short but am wondering if their is any way to test the 8Pin.

Thanks for the help, suggestions are welcome. Blind guesses are ok to.

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#2 dc3

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Posted 13 May 2011 - 12:23 AM

If you have a multimeter with at DC scale you can read the voltage of the eight pin connector. The Yellow wires are +12V DC, the Black wires are grounds ( -).

If you need any further instructions for reading voltage let me know.

When you removed the CPU and then reinstalled it did you clean the mating surfaces of the heat sink and the heat spreader of the CPU and reapply thermal compound? If you didn't I would suggest that you do so.

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#3 Allan

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Posted 13 May 2011 - 06:56 AM

Do you have another psu you can try?

#4 assassin8er

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Posted 13 May 2011 - 01:12 PM

thanks dc3. I do not have any idea of how to test the voltage, but do have a multimeter. I would like to test the PSU to confirm the problem, but would not like to void my warranty.

I do not have a second PSU however, I might be able to use one from a friends PC to test it.

I have not done anything with thermal paste since I got my CPU. I suppose that could be the problem then. But, if the CPU is over heating/overheated then it should still post. I have read that you can run the CPU without the heatsink and see if it starts getting hot to see if it is working. Is this a good idea? Seems like it has a lot of potential to destroy my CPU.

Thanks for the help.

#5 Allan

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Posted 13 May 2011 - 04:56 PM

Worst case you can purchase a psu (from a retailer that accepts returns) and see if that's the problem.

#6 caperjac

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Posted 13 May 2011 - 05:54 PM

. I have read that you can run the CPU without the heatsink and see if it starts getting hot to see if it is working. Is this a good idea? Seems like it has a lot of potential to destroy my CPU.

Thanks for the help.


it only takes a couple of seconds to fry some cpu's with no fan ,wouldn't try that as a troubleshooting option.i have /had 5 or 6 yr old computer have never had there paste changed and still work fine ,sounds to me like a bad/weak psu

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#7 dc3

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Posted 13 May 2011 - 06:45 PM

I don't know if caperjack is talking about a CPU that has been removed and then reinstalled, but it's a good practice to reapply the thermal compound if it has been removed.

Here's some information that might help you with reading the rail voltages of the PSU.

Reading PSU Rail Voltages

Caution: Please read this before continuing.


∑ Since it will be necessary for your computer to be on during this procedure, you need to be aware that you will be working with live 12Volt DC potentials, which if handled improperly may lead to electrical shock.

∑ There are electronics inside the case that are very susceptible to electrostatic discharges. To protect your computer, touch the metal of the case to discharge yourself of any electrostatic charges before touching any of the components inside.

∑ If you are not comfortable doing this procedure, then I would suggest that you not use this tutorial. The risks involved are minimal, but are there nevertheless. Anyone who uses this tutorial will be doing so at their own risk.


There are two devices commonly used to read the rail voltages: a PSU tester, and a multimeter.

The PSU tester is the easiest to use since all that is necessary is to plug the different connectors into the tester and read the results on the LCD display. The problem with most of these is that they only perform a pass/fail test. They will not provide you with actual voltage readings.

There are a variety of multiple meters, but this tutorial will address Analog and Digital multimeters. The advantage of these meters is that you will be able to obtain accurate real time voltage readings.

For those of you who wish to know more about multimeters there is an excellent article in Wikipedia.


Analog Multimeter

Posted Image


An Analog multimeter is a little more complicated to use. Both Analog and Digital multimeters need to be set to the appropriate voltage, but with an Analog multimeter, you will need to choose the voltage range and must read the proper scale.

The Analog multimeter uses a needle display which moves from 0 across the scale until it reaches the voltage being tested. This multimeter has five major linear divisions with multiple scales to read a variety of ranges. An example would be three different ranges. The first is graduated in increments of 0 through 5, the second, 0 through 10, and the third, 0 through 25. Each of these ranges are subdivided into divisions that are graduated into tenths. In order to read 12 volts the 0 through 25 range would be the appropriate one.

Because DC voltage has positive and negative potentials this device is polar sensitive, this means that if you reverse the two probes when reading a positive DC voltage it will read as a negative voltage. This is actually necessary to read negative DC voltages. The two probes are differentiated by their color, Black (negative), and Red (positive). To read a positive DC voltage, the correct probes must be used with their corresponding potentials (positive to positive and negative to negative).

With the probes being used normally to read a negative DC voltage, the needle moves from the 0 to the left, "pegging" the needle. By reversing the probes you can properly read the negative voltages.

Digital Multimeter

Posted Image


The Digital multimeter (DMM) is much simpler to use. As was mentioned previously, you will need to set the appropriate voltage. One of the advantages is that the DMM has an LCD display with a numeric readout, so there are not any multiple scales to read. Another advantage is that most DMMs are autoranging when reading voltages, which means that you will not need to set the range with these DMMs. A DMM will read both positive and negative DC voltages and display them correctly. When reading a negative voltage, a minus sign will appear on the display before the numeric value. This still is a polar sensitive device, so you will still need to use the positive and negative probes with their corresponding potentials.

There are five different DC rail voltages which are color coded. The Black wires are always negative.

Yellow +12VDC

Blue -12VDC

Red +5VDC

White -5VDC

Orange +3.3VDC


There are only three voltages that can be measured easily without disconnecting the 20/24 pin connector from the motherboard: +12V, +5V, and +3.3V.

The +12V and +5V voltages can be read from a four pin Molex power connector.

Four pin Molex power connector

Posted Image


The same voltages can be taken from a four pin SATA power connector, but in order to read the +3.3V you will need to read this from a five pin SATA power connector as seen below.

Five pin SATA power connector.

Posted Image

To read these voltages you will need to insert the Black (-) probe into any of the black sockets, and insert the Red (+) probe in the different colored voltage sockets. To read the voltages from a SATA power connector it is easiest to insert the probes into the bac k of the connector where the wires enter. Unfortunately the sockets of the modular SATA power connectors are not accessible from the back, so the readings will need to be made from the socket side. Some probes are going to be too large to fit in these sockets, so you may need to insert a piece of wire into the socket of which you want to read the voltage of and place the probe on this for your reading. To reduce the potential of creating a short I would suggest taking the ground potential from another connector so that the two wires will remain physically separated.

Caution: It is very important to make sure that you don't allow the two probes to touch each other when taking the voltage readings. This will cause a short which could damage the PSU or other components.

To get accurate readings of the rail voltages it is important that there be a load on the PSU. In order to do this I would suggest downloading Prime95 for this purpose. This program was designed to be used by overclockers to put a full load on the RAM and CPU to determine the stability of their overclocking. Because of this it will put stress on the CPU and RAM which will create higher than normal temperatures. For this reason I would suggest not running this program any longer than is necessary. I would also suggest that an inspection be made of the interior of the case to make sure that there isnít an accumulation of dust which would impede adequate cooling. Pay special attention to the heat sink and fan assembly on the CPU. If there is a dedicated graphics card with a fan installed on it, look at this fan as well.


Readings should not have variances larger than +/- five percent.

Maximum.........Minimum
12.6V.................11.4V
5.25V.................4.75V
3.47V.................3.14V

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#8 caperjac

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 06:54 AM

I don't know if caperjack is talking about a CPU that has been removed and then reinstalled, but it's a good practice to reapply the thermal compound if it has been removed.

in the first post it was said that the cpu was not removed,im just saying if it wasn't removed it not likely that it needs to have compound reapplied ,

My answers are my opinion only,usually


#9 dc3

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 09:38 AM


I don't know if caperjack is talking about a CPU that has been removed and then reinstalled, but it's a good practice to reapply the thermal compound if it has been removed.

in the first post it was said that the cpu was not removed,im just saying if it wasn't removed it not likely that it needs to have compound reapplied ,


From Assasin8er's post #1.

Had a friend come over with a similar computer and tested my CPU in his computer to attempt to determine the problem. His computer did not boot with the CPU in it, however I do not know if his motherboard supported the CPU. The problem persisted.


:woot:

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#10 caperjac

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 12:55 PM



I don't know if caperjack is talking about a CPU that has been removed and then reinstalled, but it's a good practice to reapply the thermal compound if it has been removed.

in the first post it was said that the cpu was not removed,im just saying if it wasn't removed it not likely that it needs to have compound reapplied ,


From Assasin8er's post #1.

Had a friend come over with a similar computer and tested my CPU in his computer to attempt to determine the problem. His computer did not boot with the CPU in it, however I do not know if his motherboard supported the CPU. The problem persisted.


:woot:

i stand corrected ,missed that one, sorry

Edited by caperjac, 14 May 2011 - 01:00 PM.

My answers are my opinion only,usually


#11 assassin8er

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 02:15 PM

Yeah, I pulled the power supply out of an old computer I found. It wasn't much, only a 250 watt PSU so it couldn't run my GPU however I recieved a single long beep followed by two short beeps (a GPU error). This means that the problem is very likely the PSU. I've contacted OCZ and requested an RMA.

Thanks for the help everyone.

Also, DC3, that post was very helpful. It will help me with more than just this problem but future ones as well. Thanks.




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