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I've Had enough, - Voltages & More!


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#1 eastonch

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 12:55 PM

SPEC:
CPU: AMD Phenom 965 Black Edition (QUAD)
RAM: 4 Gb DDR3 (I know it's elixer ram - Elixir 2GB PC3-10600 1333 MHz DDR3 RAM x2)
HDD: 1TB Storage (I thnk Toshiba? / Samsung)
GPU: Radeon HD 4850
Chasis: Element 's' Chassis (lovely isnt it?)
motherboard: Asus M4A77TD PRO (I think i got that right!)


Ok, let me throw you guys into a scenario.

Around ~18 months ago i purchased a Slayer Dragon, Custom build from www.meshcomputers.co.uk (or something along those lines)
After around 4 months, it started to randomly, on turn on, have no display darted accross the monitor, with cause for concern i called mesh computers and explained, they told me to test my memory (read more later.) and to reset the BIOS to factory defaults.

Memory Testing:
I tested the memory with memtest 86+ and many other diagnostical tools for memory, many from Hirens and the windows one.
NO erros were EVER found, although when i changed my BIOS around to do a "slow" boot and let it check everything, it would get to 3336mb of ram then stall for a sec / 2 then continue to 4096mb (as it should be).

BIOS:
A reset of the bios didnt really help, ofcourse, the problem was intermittant and i couldnt tell if it had fixed the issue or not until the next breakdown.

- I then continued to get annoyed, made some rather unhappy posts on hteir forums and got some advice, i swapped some ram around from 1 2 to 3 4 then to 2 3 (banks)
- I eventually sent the machine back after making another unhappy comment on their forums about how it randomly froze and would not return. The took it back and charged me 50 YES, 50! For them to "Clean it" as it was "neglegence" and there was no found hardware defects, when i got the machine back, i instantly formatted it and went back to square one, i was talking to some friends, as when i got the machine back, it started blue screening, first one was a 0x101 (Core timer response or something), then i got a "UNCORRECTABLE_HARDWARE_ERROR" And i would get random BSODs with no error message and when looking at a crash analysis called "WhoCrashed" i found it was a WHEA Checker, "Bug Checker".

I then talked to some of my really techie mates, more than me in some areas, who told me to go get CPUID's HW Monitor, I checked it out and read the readings to him, he told me my +12v was wayyy too high, as it was running at 12.78. When the bare maximum is 12.8 as ive been told.
So i shut the pc down and checked the readings in the bios, they told differently and told me i was running at a awesome 11.98 on the +12v rail.
NOTE: When the PC freezes / displays go black / "resets" the PC, i have to turn off for around 20 minutes before it will even switch back on, this CANNOT be a thermal issue as the CPU never arises more than 46*c on full load for half an hour, the GPU keeps cool at around 30-50 (I can't remember exacts) and the HDD runs smooth at 27*c

Today, after much fustration, i reinstalled the pc, after reinstalling, the first BSOD happened while just surfing the web, a "CORE TIMER" with the dreaded 0x101 error again, i'm worried.

I've given you guys as much as i can, i've been told to test with another PSU, but as you may see, in the chassis i have, and ill take some pics in the next post, It's a VERY tight squeeze internally, with cables locked around the back and table tied, i'd be worried to detatch these and to somehow get them back where they were.

another negative is that the problem itself, is very hard to figure out, I've ran numerous tests, stress tests involved too.

I heard the 0x101 issue can be the GPU rather than the CPU, and with the displays cutitng out sometimes, this also made me wonder about the GPU, on the other hand it could be the motherboard not load balancing right, which would incur a brand new mobo and the time it would take to fix it.

I'm running windows 7 64bit.

THANKS SO MUCH IN ADVANCE FOR ANY TIPS YOU CAN GIVE ME.

This has really got me down, and with mesh not giving me any help saying its neglegence and stuff, they won't help me out. I've got a "3 year" warranty with them which only covers labour on parts which i have to pay for, and i have to pay for shipping, so, infact, its not a warranty is a service they providde for after-sales. I'm sure i can replace a CPU or a GPU / HDD without paying ~50 Courier costs.

Any help guys? i'm technical when it comes to it, but this one has had me stumped for a year now, and i think its time to let you guys have a crack at it.

I'm quite short on funds, so i cant go out buying bleep to replace, but i need to find one way to find out whats bleeped up and then let me buy that peice of equipment. Rather than buy parts i don't actually need.

~ Chris

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#2 eastonch

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 03:50 PM

Shameless bump..

#3 the_patriot11

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 04:05 PM

What PSU do you have?

picard5.jpg

 

Primary system: Motherboard: ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3, Processor: AMD Phenom II x4 945, Memory: 16 gigs of Patriot G2 DDR3 1600, Video: AMD Sapphire Nitro R9 380, Storage: 1 WD 500 gig HD, 1 Hitachi 500 gig HD, and Power supply: Coolermaster 750 watt, OS: Windows 10 64 bit. 

Media Center: Motherboard: Gigabyte mp61p-S3, Processor: AMD Athlon 64 x2 6000+, Memory: 6 gigs Patriot DDR2 800, Video: Gigabyte GeForce GT730, Storage: 500 gig Hitachi, PSU: Seasonic M1211 620W full modular, OS: Windows 10.

If I don't reply within 24 hours of your reply, feel free to send me a pm.


#4 eastonch

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 04:46 PM

I have a Artic 950w PSU.

I can give you voltage specifics if you wish.. it means opening the case, this late at night.

Thanks for your resposne.

#5 the_patriot11

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Posted 13 April 2011 - 05:33 PM

Might help. Also, do you have another PSU you can swap in there to help diagnose? Im thinking its either a motherboard issue-as in the motherboards not distributing the power correctly-or a fault in the PSU somewhere. Off the top of my head those seem to be the two most likely culprits.

picard5.jpg

 

Primary system: Motherboard: ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3, Processor: AMD Phenom II x4 945, Memory: 16 gigs of Patriot G2 DDR3 1600, Video: AMD Sapphire Nitro R9 380, Storage: 1 WD 500 gig HD, 1 Hitachi 500 gig HD, and Power supply: Coolermaster 750 watt, OS: Windows 10 64 bit. 

Media Center: Motherboard: Gigabyte mp61p-S3, Processor: AMD Athlon 64 x2 6000+, Memory: 6 gigs Patriot DDR2 800, Video: Gigabyte GeForce GT730, Storage: 500 gig Hitachi, PSU: Seasonic M1211 620W full modular, OS: Windows 10.

If I don't reply within 24 hours of your reply, feel free to send me a pm.


#6 eastonch

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 05:28 AM

Thanks for the swift response, I don't have a PSU powerful enough to run, not to mention, it does not have a 4 ATX power connector for the 4850.

#7 the_patriot11

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 08:44 AM

thats alright, theres more then one way to skin a cat. try this to eliminate the PSU:

When a computer begins the boot process the motherboard initiates the start up of the PSU. Because of this it is difficult to determine whether the problem is with the motherboard or the PSU when a computer shows no signs of starting up. The purpose of the procedure is to determine if the problem is with the motherboard or the PSU. For safety purposes please follow the instructions step by step.

This test is for ATX PSUs. Some manufacturers use non-ATX PSUs with 20/24 pin connectors that do not have the same pinout as a ATX PSU.

Caution:
This procedure will involve working with live 12VDC electrical potentials which if handled improperly may lead to electrical shock. Proper precautions should also be taken to prevent electrostatic discharges (ESDs) within the case of the computer. For safety purposes please follow the instructions step by step.

First, shutdown your computer. Then unplug the power cable going into your computer.

Once you have opened the case, touch the metal of the case to discharge any static electricity.

The connector of the PSU which connects to the motherboard is readily recognizable by the number of wires in the bundle. To disconnect it you will need to press on the plastic clip to disengage it and then pull the connector up and away from the motherboard. Please take notice of the location of the locking tab and the notch on the socket of the motherboard, this will only connect one way as it is keyed. This wire bundle will have a memory of the way it has been installed and will want to bend back that direction, you may have to play around with it to find a position that the connector will stay in the same position while you run the test.

Posted Image
www.playtool.com

From the top left to right the pins are 13-24, the bottom from left to right are 1-12.


Please notice that there are PSUs with 24 pin and 20 pin connectors, the location of the green wire in the 24 pin connector is #16, and the green wire in the 20 pin connector is #14. If you look at the connector with socket side facing you and the clip on the top the number one pin will be on the bottom left corner. This makes the pin out for the 24 pin connector from left to right 13-24 on top, and 1-12 on the bottom. The pin out for the 20 pin connector from left to right is 11-20 on top , and 1-10 on the bottom. If you look at the connectors you notice that these are sockets that fit over the pins on the motherboard where the PSU cable attaches, this is where you will place the jumper. For a jumper you will need a piece of solid wire about the size of a paper clip (20-22 awg), preferably a wire with insulation. It will need to be large enough to fit firmly into the socket so that it will not need to be held in place while testing. You are at risk of electrical shock if you are holding the jumper when you power up the PSU. Insert one end of the jumper into the socket of the Green wire, and insert the other end into the socket of any Black wire.

Once the jumper is in place plug the cord back in. If the PSU is working properly the case fans, optical drives, hdds, and LEDs should power up and remain on. I would suggest that you not leave this connected any longer than is necessary for safety purposes.

To reconnect the 20/4 pin connector unplug the power cord, remove the jumper, and reconnect the connector. Take a moment at this time to make sure that nothing has been dislodged inside the case.

picard5.jpg

 

Primary system: Motherboard: ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3, Processor: AMD Phenom II x4 945, Memory: 16 gigs of Patriot G2 DDR3 1600, Video: AMD Sapphire Nitro R9 380, Storage: 1 WD 500 gig HD, 1 Hitachi 500 gig HD, and Power supply: Coolermaster 750 watt, OS: Windows 10 64 bit. 

Media Center: Motherboard: Gigabyte mp61p-S3, Processor: AMD Athlon 64 x2 6000+, Memory: 6 gigs Patriot DDR2 800, Video: Gigabyte GeForce GT730, Storage: 500 gig Hitachi, PSU: Seasonic M1211 620W full modular, OS: Windows 10.

If I don't reply within 24 hours of your reply, feel free to send me a pm.


#8 eastonch

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 10:36 AM

Sorry, can you tell me exactly, what i'm looking for? If the jumper around the 16/14th pin is on and the computer does not power up, does this mean a defective PSU? and if it still does power up?

Anyway, im using my old PC (the one i'd be taking the PSU out of) heres the "CPU-ID-HW stats"

http://img600.imageshack.us/i/22222222222s.png/


I think, i might be best, actually buying a sufficent PSU that would replace it, maybe, a cheap one just to see me by and if that actually helps the cause, i'd invest in a higher powered modular one later.

I'm not sure if this PSU would work with the main computer, sobeit, it's only 500-550w and it's used to a 950 with many rails.
I could also replace the GPU with my older one, its a 8600nvidia, i'm not sure if this would work with the mobo i specified, can you do me the task of looking at this for me?

I'm really shakey on my feet at the moment as i have no idea with electronics and it would be a learning curve for me to do this, but, on the other hand, i could short everything.

#9 the_patriot11

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 12:35 PM

If it does not power up then it is a defective GPU. Though, looking at your temps, it looks like your video card is running a tad hot. Was that taken at idle, or after running something graphics intensive?

picard5.jpg

 

Primary system: Motherboard: ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3, Processor: AMD Phenom II x4 945, Memory: 16 gigs of Patriot G2 DDR3 1600, Video: AMD Sapphire Nitro R9 380, Storage: 1 WD 500 gig HD, 1 Hitachi 500 gig HD, and Power supply: Coolermaster 750 watt, OS: Windows 10 64 bit. 

Media Center: Motherboard: Gigabyte mp61p-S3, Processor: AMD Athlon 64 x2 6000+, Memory: 6 gigs Patriot DDR2 800, Video: Gigabyte GeForce GT730, Storage: 500 gig Hitachi, PSU: Seasonic M1211 620W full modular, OS: Windows 10.

If I don't reply within 24 hours of your reply, feel free to send me a pm.


#10 eastonch

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 12:41 PM

THAT was my current pc im using now, the one i plan to "take" the psu out of and replace the other machine.

#11 the_patriot11

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 01:55 PM

As far as swapping video cards out, as long as both cards are pci express 16, they will both work in the system. A 500 watt PSU should run a 4850 as well though-950 is a bit on the overkill side unless your running like 3 different cards and 4 hard drives. Swap out the graphics/psu and if the issue persists, then I would assume that its the motherboard seeing as it already passed a memtest. You could go to the hard drive manufacturers web site and download their diagnostic tool and test that as well just to make sure, but I would start with swapping out first the graphics card, and if the problem persists, then swap out the PSU. Use the process of elimination.

picard5.jpg

 

Primary system: Motherboard: ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3, Processor: AMD Phenom II x4 945, Memory: 16 gigs of Patriot G2 DDR3 1600, Video: AMD Sapphire Nitro R9 380, Storage: 1 WD 500 gig HD, 1 Hitachi 500 gig HD, and Power supply: Coolermaster 750 watt, OS: Windows 10 64 bit. 

Media Center: Motherboard: Gigabyte mp61p-S3, Processor: AMD Athlon 64 x2 6000+, Memory: 6 gigs Patriot DDR2 800, Video: Gigabyte GeForce GT730, Storage: 500 gig Hitachi, PSU: Seasonic M1211 620W full modular, OS: Windows 10.

If I don't reply within 24 hours of your reply, feel free to send me a pm.


#12 eastonch

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 04:22 PM

Looks like its compatible, ill boot it up sometime tomorrow with the changes made, and ill remove all the fancy bleep with Windows 7 and put the old card in and hope for the best.

I HOPE it's the card, it's an easy replacement.


Edit: Remember, this other psu doesn't have a 4pin ATX connector for the GPU, making it invalid for use. IN fact, i'm not sure if it has anything more than one / 2 sata power connectors, the 24pin atx for the mobo and a few molex connectors.

Edited by eastonch, 14 April 2011 - 04:54 PM.





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