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PC turns off shortly after turning on


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#1 tomh1991

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Posted 20 March 2011 - 04:50 AM

Hi guys! Apologies if this is in the wrong section.

The other day, my desktop PC just turned off while I was rendering a video. Now I can't get it to start up.

It will turn on until it 'beeps' and then just turn off again. If I leave it for a long time I can get to the Windows loading screen, but I have never been able to reach the login screen. I have made sure the cables are firmly connected and I've tried using different power sockets, but I'm getting no luck.

After what I have read on the net so far, it sounds as though the power supply needs replacing. However I'm very reluctant to spend money on a new power supply if this is not what's causing the problem. Are there any diagnostics I can take to determine the problem, without spending any money?

My PC is a Packard Bell B2619UK E1500 running Windows Vista.

Thanks for your help :)

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#2 killerx525

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Posted 20 March 2011 - 05:53 AM

It could be overheating.

>Michael 
System1: CPU- Intel Core i7-5820K @ 4.4GHz, CPU Cooler- Noctua NH-D14, RAM- G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB Kit(4Gx4) DDR3 2133MHz, SSD/HDD- Samsung 850 EVO 250GB/Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB/Seagate Barracuada 3TB, GPU- 2x EVGA GTX980 Superclocked @1360/MHz1900MHz, Motherboard- Asus X99 Deluxe, Case- Custom Mac G5, PSU- EVGA P2-1000W, Soundcard- Realtek High Definition Audio, OS- Windows 10 Pro 64-Bit
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#3 Wildabeast

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Posted 20 March 2011 - 06:06 AM

Sounds like overheating. Are your fans all running? The CPU fan, video card fan? It wouldn't hurt to make sure the power supply fan is running also, although, I doubt that's it you never know.. :blink:
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#4 killerx525

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Posted 20 March 2011 - 06:22 AM

Rendering video heats up the processor which might of made the computer to turn off.

>Michael 
System1: CPU- Intel Core i7-5820K @ 4.4GHz, CPU Cooler- Noctua NH-D14, RAM- G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB Kit(4Gx4) DDR3 2133MHz, SSD/HDD- Samsung 850 EVO 250GB/Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB/Seagate Barracuada 3TB, GPU- 2x EVGA GTX980 Superclocked @1360/MHz1900MHz, Motherboard- Asus X99 Deluxe, Case- Custom Mac G5, PSU- EVGA P2-1000W, Soundcard- Realtek High Definition Audio, OS- Windows 10 Pro 64-Bit
Games: APB: Reloaded, Hours played: 3100+  System2: Late 2011 Macbook Pro 15inch   OFw63FY.png


#5 tomh1991

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Posted 20 March 2011 - 06:26 AM

Thanks for the reply, I'll check to see if the fans are working.

But would over heating cause it to turn off after a few seconds every single time? The problem started about 3 weeks ago. I turned it on yesterday after not trying for a week and it only got to the Windows loading screen.

Edited by tomh1991, 20 March 2011 - 06:29 AM.


#6 tomh1991

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Posted 20 March 2011 - 07:44 AM

Posted Image

Ok, the fans that I can see are indicated by the red arrows. I assume the are the power supply and cpu fans. Both seem to run ok.

#7 Suicide King

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Posted 20 March 2011 - 09:27 AM

I could be the video card itself, or even the ram. It depends on the type of beep you're having, and the model of motherboard you have. A lack of video or ram can produce a beep.

If you can borrow a video card from someone, try a known good video card in the motherboard. If that doesn't work, see if you can try some spare ram in place of your existing ram, to see if that helps either.

The more hardware we can eliminate as the source, the closer we will get to finding your problem.

#8 tomh1991

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Posted 20 March 2011 - 10:09 AM

I could be the video card itself, or even the ram. It depends on the type of beep you're having, and the model of motherboard you have. A lack of video or ram can produce a beep.

If you can borrow a video card from someone, try a known good video card in the motherboard. If that doesn't work, see if you can try some spare ram in place of your existing ram, to see if that helps either.

The more hardware we can eliminate as the source, the closer we will get to finding your problem.


Thanks for your reply.

Is a 'beep' not a good sign then? The PC has always beeped when it was turned on ever since it was purchased. Although now, sometimes it won't even make the beep before it turns off.

Update: After following advice on another forum, I have disconnected the hard drive, reseated the RAM, tried using one RAM stick at a time in each slot, and it's still keeps turning off.

If it helps, it doesn't always turn off at the same time. If I leave it for 24 hours, it will reach the Windows loading screen. But if I go to turn it on straight after, it will turn off at the Packard Bell logo (first screen that shows). Initially that suggested a power problem to me. I'm a novice at this thing though so it could be anything.

Edited by tomh1991, 20 March 2011 - 11:57 AM.


#9 Suicide King

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Posted 20 March 2011 - 12:59 PM

Do you know how to check the capacitors? I always like to eliminate them as a possible cause, because it is a common problem that capacitors go bad on a desktop.

These are capacitors: http://www.thenakedpc.com/dan/Bulging_Capacitors/close-up.jpg

Notice how some are nice and flat on top (good), and others are bulging/rounded or leaking (bad). If any of your capacitors look bad, that could be the cause of the problem. Take a flashlight and look them over and post the results -- so we can eliminate the capacitors as the cause.

#10 tomh1991

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Posted 20 March 2011 - 01:14 PM

I've had a look at the capacitors. None of them are leaking and they all seem to be flat.

It's frustrating; this PC was mainly bought for my Mum who is a beginner computer user. It's probably been used for no more than 3 hours a week on average. I have a laptop which I primarily use, and only use the desktop PC now and then. We're both very surprised/annoyed that a component has failed with such minimal use.

I was told elsewhere that the on-board graphics card may have failed when the video was rendering. Does this seem a likely cause to you?

#11 Suicide King

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Posted 20 March 2011 - 01:32 PM

That seems like a likely possibility. You may want to check to see if the computer is still under a manufacturer's warranty, if that is the case -- as a failed on-board graphics card means the motherboard will need to be replaced. (Or repaired, if the manufacturer wants to "reball" and "resolder" a new graphics chip, but that seems unlikely due to the time consuming nature of such a 'possible' fix.)

I've seen a desktop before that had a similar issue. It turned out to be the CPU/Motherboard connection had gone bad -- although that was after years and years of overclocking and continuous use. I see no reason, other than a defect from the manufacturer, that your board should be giving the same issue.

Just to be sure, unplug both the power and data cables to the hard drive AND to the CD/DVD-rom both (unplug the data cables from the motherboard end, since that is what we want to test). That would eliminate the possibility of any connected devices on the motherboard being the issue. That would leave only two possibilities -- your power supply and motherboard/CPU ... although I'm thinking more the motherboard, personally.

Edited by Suicide King, 20 March 2011 - 01:37 PM.


#12 tomh1991

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Posted 20 March 2011 - 02:29 PM

Right, I've done as you said but still no luck. So it leaves us with this:

- Power Supply
- Motherboard Issue

and someone else said a RAM failure could be possible too.

Unfortunately the PC's warranty has expired. Even so, we've had it for only 19 months and with such little usage I don't expect any hardware to conk out.

If the cause is the motherboard, is it worth trying to get it fixed, or should I think about getting a new PC?

#13 Suicide King

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Posted 20 March 2011 - 02:51 PM

It really depends on how old the computer is, and the specifications of the computer.

It looks like you have a micro ATX motherboard, so figure on about $50-$80 (depending on if they mark it up much, maybe $100, but most likely in that range) USD for a motherboard, and about $50-80 USD per hour in labor costs for someone to replace it and reinstall the old processor. Something in the range of $100-$160 total is my guess.

For a power supply, I'd say about $40-$70 USD (depending on how much they mark up the costs) for the part itself, and anywhere from $30 - $80 USD, depending on if they can get it done in less than an hour (or charge for the full hour anyway), which should be the case since a PSU isn't too hard to swap. Should be max of an hour labor, if not less. So anywhere between $70-150 USD total, if the PSU is the problem and not the motherboard.

If the computer is in good condition otherwise, I say go for the replacement for the time being. Just make sure to get a price quote first so there aren't any surprises.

Edited by Suicide King, 20 March 2011 - 03:00 PM.


#14 tomh1991

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Posted 21 March 2011 - 07:41 AM

Right, following someone else's advice, I tried loading up the default settings in the BIOS. I just can't get the bios to stay up long enough. I'll try and leave it for even longer but I'm not too confident.

I made a video just so I can show you what exactly is happening. Hopefully it will give someone an idea of what's going on.



#15 MrBruce1959

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Posted 21 March 2011 - 08:17 AM

I watched your video, I seen some white lettering appear on the screen during the post, what exactly was the wording on the screen?

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