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question/help computer will not power up =[


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#1 sw00n

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Posted 11 August 2010 - 03:50 PM

ok i have an acer 1g of ram ddr2
3800+ amd athlon 64 processop
and 160gb sata hard disk and i got it in 2007


about a week ago my pc powerd down and when i went to turn it back on only the fan in the back came on and another fan on the inside from my graphics card i think... anyways i had a friend come over and he is ok with computers but idk if he knows what he is talking about because he said my hard drive might be shot but idk about that...it looks ok and was working fine -.- anyways i read online that it could be my power supply that failed, or my motherboard but i think it could be my psu -.- that failed.. what could this be? should i buy a new power supply? or is my mobo fail =[?

need help im on an old pc with 256 ram at the moment :thumbsup:

Edited by hamluis, 11 August 2010 - 05:36 PM.
Moved from Vista forum to Internal Hardware ~ Hamluis.


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#2 MrBruce1959

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Posted 11 August 2010 - 11:05 PM

Hello and welcome to Bleepingcomputer.

I am going to give you some tests you can conduct to determine if your power supply is the culprit.

What you should also purchase is a VOM multimeter for testing voltage readings. The meter should have the ability to test both AC and DC voltages.

Below is some instructions you can follow, I will also provide a link to a web site that will also assist you in doing tests to determine if your PSU is at fault.

Please heed all warnings posted in this thread!

WARNING: THIS POST MAY CONTAIN DIRECTIONS THAT INCLUDE WORKING WITH LIVE VOLTAGES OR PARTS INSIDE A COMPUTER'S POWER SUPPLY THAT CAN CAUSE SERIOUS ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR SERIOUS BURNS, A POWER SUPPLY CONTAINS VARY LARGE ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITORS THAT ACT JUST LIKE A BATTERY OR VOLTAGE STORAGE DEVICE, THOSE AND OTHER ELECTRONICS FOUND INSIDE A POWER SUPPLY CAN STORE DANGEROUS AMOUNTS OF ELECTRICITY HOURS OR EVEN WEEKS AFTER ALL ELECTRICAL CURRENT HAS BEEN DISCONNECTED FROM THEM! PLEASE USE EXTREME CAUTION AND COMMON SENSE WHEN WORKING WITH POWER SUPPLIES OR AC VOLTAGES!


The purpose of this procedure is to bypass the motherboard to test a ATX PSU. Some manufacturers Like Dell have used some non ATX PSUs which have a different pinout for the 20/4 pin connector, please confirm that your PSU is a ATX type before using this procedure.

Caution:
This procedure will involve working with live 12VDC electrical potentials which if handled improperly may lead to electrical shock. Proper precautions should also be taken to prevent electrostatic discharges (ESDs) within the case of the computer. For safety purposes please follow the instructions step by step.

First, shutdown your computer. Then unplug the power cable going into your computer.

Once you have opened the case, touch the metal of the case to discharge any static electricity.

The connector of the PSU which connects to the motherboard is readily recognizable by the number of wires in the bundle. To disconnect it you will need to press on the plastic clip to disengage it and then pull the connector up and away from the motherboard. Please take notice of the location of the locking tab and the notch on the socket of the motherboard, this will only connect one way as it is keyed. This wire bundle will have a memory of the way it has been installed and will want to bend back that direction, you may have to play around with it to find a position that the connector will stay in the same position while you run the test.

Posted Image
www.playtool.com

From the top left to right the pins are 13-24, the bottom from left to right are 1-12.


Please notice that there are PSUs with 24 pin and 20 pin connectors, the location of the green wire in the 24 pin connector is #16, and the green wire in the 20 pin connector is #14. If you look at the connector with socket side facing you and the clip on the top the number one pin will be on the bottom left corner. This makes the pin out for the 24 pin connector from left to right 13-24 on top, and 1-12 on the bottom. The pin out for the 20 pin connector from left to right is 11-20 on top , and 1-10 on the bottom. If you look at the connectors you notice that these are sockets that fit over the pins on the motherboard where the PSU cable attaches, this is where you will place the jumper. For a jumper you will need a piece of solid wire about the size of a paper clip (20-22 awg), preferably a wire with insulation. It will need to be large enough to fit firmly into the socket so that it will not need to be held in place while testing. You are at risk of electrical shock if you are holding the jumper when you power up the PSU. Insert one end of the jumper into the socket of the Green wire, and insert the other end into the socket of any Black wire.

Once the jumper is in place plug the cord back in. If the PSU is working properly the case fans, optical drives, hdds, and LEDs should power up and remain on. I would suggest that you not leave this connected any longer than is necessary for safety purposes.

To reconnect the 20/4 pin connector unplug the power cord, remove the jumper, and reconnect the connector. Take a moment at this time to make sure that nothing has been dislodged inside the case.

(End of test instructions)

I am now posting a link to a web site that shows pin-outs for different power connecters found on the end of the PSU output cables, these show what pin has what voltage reading and will be helpful in determining if any portion of your DC output has failed.

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html

There are other links on this page in the menu box you can click on that will also help you in troubleshooting your PSU.

Bruce.

Edited by MrBruce1959, 11 August 2010 - 11:08 PM.

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