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Computer not POSTing


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#1 SylarZero

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Posted 12 July 2010 - 09:45 AM

Hello, I hope this description helps.

MY PC:
HP Pavilion a600f - nearly 2 years old
My motherboard, if it matters, is a Foxconn MCP73M02H1
Operating System: Windows Vista Home Premium x64

Going back about a month, my computer started getting a BlueScreenOfDeath when I would do a Cold Start. But once everything was started, it worked fine. This was until Saturday night. That's when it froze up. After that, it was hard to get it started. But I did manage to get it started again, but then it blue screened once more, and then FROZE on the BSOD.

After that, my computer would no longer POST. Nothing would show up on the monitor.

When I turn the power on, the fans run. The mouse is detected-- but the keyboard, and ethernet internet connection are NOT.
The DVD Drive will open.

I do not hear any beeps when I turn it on.

Steps I've already taken:
I've removed the Ram, and seen if it would POST then, but it would not.
I've reconnected everything, to see if a Loose Connection was the problem.
I've checked the monitor with another PC (the one that I am on now)
I've also replaced the CMOS battery

I've talked to several other people, and they seem to think it's one of Four Things-

#1. The Power Supply Unit
#2. The Graphics Card (I did try a new graphics card, but I'm not sure if I did it properly)
#3. The Motherboard
#4. The CPU

It'd be greatly appreciated if I could figure out which it was, so I could replace what needs to be replaced, and get my computer back to working.

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#2 thrillhouse

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Posted 12 July 2010 - 09:54 AM

my money is on the power supply but that is just a guess. Do you have a multitester?

#3 SylarZero

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Posted 12 July 2010 - 10:01 AM

I can get a multimeter.

But if it were the PSU wouldn't the mouse not be detected (I'm using an Optical mouse, which glows red.) and the fans wouldn't run? Could the PSU cause it to not POST?

Additional Information: The PSU light is green, and stays green. When I disconnect the power source, it stays green for a little while. I figured this information may help me get this problem diagnosed. The PSU is a Bestec ATX-250-12z

Edited by SylarZero, 12 July 2010 - 10:45 AM.


#4 thrillhouse

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Posted 12 July 2010 - 11:47 AM

Usually, in my experience, they either work or they don't. On the other hand though, it may be that it's delivering power but not to all the connections. That would explain it, might want to test it out or try one that you know is working correctly if you have access to a fully functioning computer with an equal power supply. Just my two cents, this stuff is hard to figure out by guessing, you just are going to have to use process of elimination, but power supply is a good place to start because they are cheaper than gpu or mobo and easy to take out and mess with. Good luck!

#5 MrBruce1959

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Posted 12 July 2010 - 12:27 PM

Hello and welcome to Bleepingcomputer.

I have read your description you posted above.

You stated you are not getting a post beep.

You also stated you are not getting anything on your screen at boot up, not even the BIOS screen.

I suggest you try conducting the following tests below.

The purpose of this procedure is to bypass the motherboard to test a ATX PSU. Some manufacturers Like Dell have used some non ATX PSUs which have a different pinout for the 20/4 pin connector, please confirm that your PSU is a ATX type before using this procedure.

Caution:
This procedure will involve working with live 12VDC electrical potentials which if handled improperly may lead to electrical shock. Proper precautions should also be taken to prevent electrostatic discharges (ESDs) within the case of the computer. For safety purposes please follow the instructions step by step.

First, shutdown your computer. Then unplug the power cable going into your computer.

Once you have opened the case, touch the metal of the case to discharge any static electricity.

The connector of the PSU which connects to the motherboard is readily recognizable by the number of wires in the bundle. To disconnect it you will need to press on the plastic clip to disengage it and then pull the connector up and away from the motherboard. Please take notice of the location of the locking tab and the notch on the socket of the motherboard, this will only connect one way as it is keyed. This wire bundle will have a memory of the way it has been installed and will want to bend back that direction, you may have to play around with it to find a position that the connector will stay in the same position while you run the test.

Posted Image
www.playtool.com

From the top left to right the pins are 13-24, the bottom from left to right are 1-12.


Please notice that there are PSUs with 24 pin and 20 pin connectors, the location of the green wire in the 24 pin connector is #16, and the green wire in the 20 pin connector is #14. If you look at the connector with socket side facing you and the clip on the top the number one pin will be on the bottom left corner. This makes the pin out for the 24 pin connector from left to right 13-24 on top, and 1-12 on the bottom. The pin out for the 20 pin connector from left to right is 11-20 on top , and 1-10 on the bottom. If you look at the connectors you notice that these are sockets that fit over the pins on the motherboard where the PSU cable attaches, this is where you will place the jumper. For a jumper you will need a piece of solid wire about the size of a paper clip (20-22 awg), preferably a wire with insulation. It will need to be large enough to fit firmly into the socket so that it will not need to be held in place while testing. You are at risk of electrical shock if you are holding the jumper when you power up the PSU. Insert one end of the jumper into the socket of the Green wire, and insert the other end into the socket of any Black wire.

Once the jumper is in place plug the cord back in. If the PSU is working properly the case fans, optical drives, hdds, and LEDs should power up and remain on. I would suggest that you not leave this connected any longer than is necessary for safety purposes.

To reconnect the 20/4 pin connector unplug the power cord, remove the jumper, and reconnect the connector. Take a moment at this time to make sure that nothing has been dislodged inside the case.


Please post back the results of this test.

Kind regards.

Bruce.
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#6 SylarZero

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Posted 12 July 2010 - 01:32 PM

Alright, the results of the test-

When connected with the paperclip wire, the fans turn on. The mouse does not, the keyboard does not, and the little light on the power button does not. You can't turn it off manually either, like you can when you have it plugged into the port. The little green light comes on.

Edited by SylarZero, 12 July 2010 - 01:41 PM.


#7 SylarZero

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Posted 12 July 2010 - 05:40 PM

Tried swapping the power supply from this computer, to the other one. Did the exact same thing as the other one...

#8 MrBruce1959

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Posted 12 July 2010 - 06:02 PM

This now leaves you with the motherboard and its controller chip.

If nothing has become disconnected on the motherboard for any reason, we would have to be looking at a possible motherboard failure.

Careful inspection of all motherboard jumpers and looking for possible electrolytic capacitor failure (leaking or bulging) might turn up other possible reasons.

Before I suggest total motherboard failure, you should conduct a through inspection of the motherboard for a possible solution.

Bruce.
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#9 SylarZero

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Posted 12 July 2010 - 06:18 PM

None of the capacitors appear to be leaking, and everything seems to be hooked up just fine.

At least I ruled out the PSU. I ordered a new motherboard just in case. Same exact one, which should prevent loss of data right? Even if I don't need a new one, I'll get it quicker if I order now, and have it for later.

Is there anything I should be looking for in particular? All of your help and advice has been very helpful.

#10 MrBruce1959

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Posted 12 July 2010 - 06:35 PM

Try removing the CPU from its ZIF slot and put it back into the slot and lock it down again.

See if this corrects the problem.

While it is out and exposed, see if there are any signs of discoloration, like rainbow colors on the core, blackened or charred appearance.

I read your list of things you've already tried above, but I did not see where you tried re-seating the CPU.

Bruce.
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#11 SylarZero

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Posted 12 July 2010 - 06:53 PM

The CPU has a silver thing on it, and it had a lot of dust, and I think a scratch mark on it. Hard to describe. Going to try it again later, but I'm having my doubts it'll work.

#12 abauw

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Posted 12 July 2010 - 07:19 PM

HP Pavilion a600f??? cant find that type in hp web...just want to see detail specs(onboad vga or not) or documentation about

have you clear bios by changing jumper??? sometimes changing jumper better than changing you battery...except if your bios cannot save because the battery down...or just make sure that jumper still there and not removed (because if remove...your computer will never bypass POST)...its sound silly but I have a couple custumer who have unintentionally remove that jumper...

when you start you computer...try to feel the heat around you heatsink fan...or hold or touch you heatsink (the metal not the fan) for couple a second until you get hot/heat (dont too long if you dont want to burn you hand)...if no heat maybe your processor goes down...

if get that heat maybe its your main board or RAM...
try different RAM or check capasitor around your heatsink fan (remove heatsink fan first)...front and back you mainboard...sometimes the capasitor broken without any trace...if you cant use multitester (hope I no wrong spell or wrong tools...I ussually call it multitester...dont know what to say it in english) try test you mainboard

changing exact motherboard not guarantee your data...maybe just save you OS and installed program but that not 100%...sometime you must re-instal it again...

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#13 MrBruce1959

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Posted 12 July 2010 - 07:54 PM

The CPU has a silver thing on it, and it had a lot of dust, and I think a scratch mark on it. Hard to describe. Going to try it again later, but I'm having my doubts it'll work.

That might have been one of your problems having the dust build up on what appears to be the heat sink.

Bruce.

Edited by MrBruce1959, 12 July 2010 - 07:54 PM.

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#14 SylarZero

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Posted 13 July 2010 - 09:33 AM

There was heat coming from the Heatsink.

It SOUNDS like it's trying to start, and it started to sound normal. But still no display. Maybe I'm closer to getting this fixed. Maybe not. I just hope to have it back soon, because this old one barely works (It's 6 years old, with XP) Still no keyboard being read though. All of your help has been greatly appreciated. I freak out when my computer doesn't work -- especially because I'm an aspiring writer with all my writing on that computer...

#15 SylarZero

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Posted 13 July 2010 - 10:01 AM

Here are the detail specs:

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/documen...product=3644689

I tried again just now (I'm getting desperate, hope this doesn't ruin my hard drive), and oddly it didn't turn on at one point. The green light wasn't on or anything. But then I got it to go again. Could it still be the PSU, even if I've tried another one? Or was that ruled out by the test/trying the other one. I'd think they'd be compatible, since they both use the same type of cord.

Also wanted to add this, in case it helps any at alL:

I ran HP Health Check not long ago, and everything checked out fine. Also did a memory diagnostic. Not sure if it can detect if a Motherboard is starting to go bad or not.

I also ran chkdsk, which turned up C: is dirty. But it didn't fix it.

I have tried booting without the hard drive connected, but nothing still happened. So I don't think it's the problem. But I figured additional information could not hurt.

Edited by SylarZero, 13 July 2010 - 10:11 AM.





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