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New PC Build won't POST


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#1 papy72

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Posted 17 February 2010 - 04:42 PM

OK so I have been working on building a new PC but have run into an issue on startup. I don't get a POST beep at all and no output to my monitor.

What happens when I turn it on:
1. all fans come on, including the CPU cooler.
2. I think the HDD spins, but it's a bit hard to tell with the fan blowing air over it. The HDD light does blink on startup.
3. The DVD drive opens and seems to work ok.

Stuff I've already done:
1. Made sure to use the mobo risers in the case.
2. Pulled the mobo out, attached only the memory and power cables to the mobo.
3. (after doing #2) I reset the CMOS and pulled the CMOS battery.

So far I still don't get a POST beep of any kind.

Any ideas what the problem could be?

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#2 Baltboy

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Posted 17 February 2010 - 09:06 PM

Seems like you have checked over all of the connections. Double check the speaker connection sometimes they shift the pinning around(i.e. no space between pins or one space between pins). Sounds like a bad board.
Get your facts first, then you can distort them as you please.
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#3 papy72

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Posted 03 March 2010 - 09:26 PM

Update: I returned the mobo for a replacement, repeated the same outside of the case test originally described, and get the same results (i.e. no POST beep of any kind, no output to the monitor).

I'm at a loss as to what the problem could be. Any suggestions?

#4 Baltboy

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Posted 04 March 2010 - 07:42 AM

What hardware are you using?
Get your facts first, then you can distort them as you please.
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#5 papy72

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Posted 04 March 2010 - 07:49 AM

AMD Phenom II x2, Gigabyte mobo, G-skill ram.

If you want to see specifics check out this wish list. It's basically everything I bought:

http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWi...Number=13702366

#6 garmanma

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Posted 04 March 2010 - 10:05 AM

Is the clear CMOS jumper on correctly?
A lot of newer boards have a Clear CMOS switch on the I/O plate. Possibly it was moved?
Not the greatest power supply in the world
You might want to check all of the voltages

==============================


Caution: There are electronics inside the case that are very susceptible to electrostatic discharges. To protect your computer, touch the metal of the case to discharge yourself of any electrostatic charges your body may have stored before touching any of the components inside. As a safety precaution you should unplug the computer to avoid electrical shock.
-----------------
The purpose of this procedure is to bypass the motherboard to test the PSU.

Caution:
This procedure will involve working with live 12VDC electrical potentials which if handled improperly may lead to electrical shock. Proper precautions should also be taken to prevent electrostatic discharges (ESDs) within the case of the computer. For safety purposes please follow the instructions step by step.

First, shutdown your computer. Then unplug the power cable going into your computer.

Once you have opened the case, touch the metal of the case to discharge any static electricity.

The connector of the PSU which connects to the motherboard is readily recognizable by the number of wires in the bundle. To disconnect it you will need to press on the plastic clip to disengage it and then pull the connector up and away from the motherboard. Please take notice of the location of the locking tab and the notch on the socket of the motherboard, this will only connect one way as it is keyed. This wire bundle will have a memory of the way it has been installed and will want to bend back that direction, you may have to play around with it to find a position that the connector will stay in the same position while you run the test.

Posted Image
www.playtool.com

From the top left to right the pins are 13-24, the bottom from left to right are 1-12.


Please notice that there are PSUs with 24 pin and 20 pin connectors, the location of the green wire in the 24 pin connector is #16, and the green wire in the 20 pin connector is #14. If you look at the connector with socket side facing you and the clip on the top the number one pin will be on the bottom left corner. This makes the pin out for the 24 pin connector from left to right 13-24 on top, and 1-12 on the bottom. The pin out for the 20 pin connector from left to right is 11-20 on top , and 1-10 on the bottom. If you look at the connectors you notice that these are sockets that fit over the pins on the motherboard where the PSU cable attaches, this is where you will place the jumper. For a jumper you will need a piece of solid wire about the size of a paper clip (20-22 awg), preferably a wire with insulation. It will need to be large enough to fit firmly into the socket so that it will not need to be held in place while testing. You are at risk of electrical shock if you are holding the jumper when you power up the PSU. Insert one end of the jumper into the socket of the Green wire, and insert the other end into the socket of any Black wire.

Once the jumper is in place plug the cord back in. If the PSU is working properly the case fans, optical drives, hdds, and LEDs should power up and remain on. I would suggest that you not leave this connected any longer than is necessary for safety purposes.

To reconnect the 20/4 pin connector unplug the power cord, remove the jumper, and reconnect the connector. Take a moment at this time to make sure that nothing has been dislodged inside the case.
---------------------------
At this point you can use a DC Voltage meter to read the different rail Voltages. You will want to insert the black probe into any of the Black (-) sockets, and insert the Red (+) probe in the five different colored sockets, one at a time. Below are the five different colors and their corresponding rail Voltages. The Voltages should be within about ten percent of the given values.

Yellow +12VDC

Blue -12VDC

Red +5VDC

White -5VDC

Orange +3.3VDC
Mark
Posted Image
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#7 papy72

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Posted 04 March 2010 - 10:56 AM

The CMOS jumper is open, which the manual indicates is normal.

As far as your voltage test goes, let me make sure I understand before I try it. I have a 24-pin cable (set up as a 20 + 4 config). When oriented as shown the green wire is fourth from the left on the top row.

With everything unplugged I jumper that green wire along with any black wire. When I plug the PSU back in it should power up just like when the power switch is hit, correct?

Do I check just the 24 pin outlet, or do I also check the 8-pin one that also plugs into the mobo?

#8 techextreme

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Posted 04 March 2010 - 11:26 AM

I would also try booting with only half of your memory.

Pull one stick from your motherboard and make sure you use the slot marked DDR3_1.

Try to boot your computer. If it exhibits the same symptoms, try the other stick in the same slot by itself.
Techextreme

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#9 papy72

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Posted 05 March 2010 - 07:16 PM

garmanma,

I ran the voltage test. I think everything looks to be within 10% of the numbers you gave me. Here are the exact numbers I pulled:

"top" row, left to right: orange 3.42, blue 12.6, black, green, black x3, empty, red 5.23, red 5.23, red 5.23, black.

bottom row, left to right: orange 3.43, orange 3.43, black, red 5.24, black, red 5.26, black, gray 4.26, purple 5.23, yellow 12.32, yellow 12.32, and orange 3.44

I also checked the wires leading to the pci-express 6/8 pin power sockets and the other 8 pin socket (the mobo one). All had yellow wires and all were very close to the yellow voltages reported above.

Techextreme, your test is next on my list.

#10 papy72

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Posted 05 March 2010 - 07:33 PM

Techextreme, that actually worked! I pulled out the second slots memory chip and it did a POST beep, output BIOS stuff to the monitor and everything.

I pulled the other chip out of slot 1 and set the second chip into it. It booted with the same results.

So in summary if I use both my memory chips it appears to be DOA, but using either individual chip in the first memory slot looks to be ok.

So can I assume now that it is a bad motherboard (the second in a row)???

Edited by papy72, 05 March 2010 - 07:34 PM.


#11 techextreme

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Posted 08 March 2010 - 07:43 AM

I would not assume that as of yet.

I have run into problems with "non-qualified" memory doing this same thing. Make sure that your memory is on the Motherboard manufacturer's Qualified Vendor or Tested to work List.

If it is, then yes it's possible you have a motherboard that can't support the voltage and amperages that are needed to run properly.

If it isn't, then I would purchase some memory that is on the Tested to Work list and once again retry.
Techextreme

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-- Seneca

#12 papy72

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Posted 08 March 2010 - 07:52 AM

Thanks again. In this case the root cause of the problem was a combination of bad documentation and user error (i.e. mine).

The mobo manual has a lovely little chart that shows which slots to put the memory chips in, using the examples of 2 chips and 4 chips. It shows a 2 chip setup going into slots 1 and 2, which is how I set it up.

But there was also a description of the two different memory channels (or whatever they are called). Channel 1 was slots 1 and 3 (not slot 2 as shown in the chart). For some reason Gigabyte also chose to color slots 1/2 blue and 3/4 white. I would think if you needed to use 1 & 3, then those would be color-matched, but I guess not.

In the end when I put the memory into slots 1 and 3 it all worked just fine. My machine is now up and running beautifully.

#13 techextreme

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Posted 08 March 2010 - 07:54 AM

That's Great :thumbsup:

Happy Computing.
Techextreme

"Admire those who attempt great things, even though they fail."

-- Seneca




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