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Computer shuts down after seconds...


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#1 jdinges27

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Posted 03 February 2010 - 10:19 AM

I apologise in advance for the lack of complete details, hopefully its not ALL needed to help diagnose this problem.....

Case - Sylvainia Wind Tunnel
PSU - No Clue, I "think" its a 750W, roughly 4-5 years old at this point...
MB - EVGA 750i SLI - Newest Drivers
Processor - Intel E7400, stock Heatsink, not OC
Video - PNY GTX-260 Performance Edition (I think thats what the box said at this point....)



Heres the issue..... I normally leave the computer on, in sleep mode over night, just a habit, have done it for years and years. Well, this past Monday night, I did my final check of emails, closed everything down and went of to bed. When I got up Tuesday morning, the PC was off. At first I thought "ok, it downloaded some Windows 7 stuff, and shut off after. Well, that wasnt the case. When I went to turn it back on, nothing. So I got up and checked if it was off, and made sure nothing was out of place, turned the machine back on and saw the lights turn on inside, and some of the fans spin up, then just shuts back down.

The motherboard Diag LED is showing FF, the CPU and case fans are spinning, however the Video card fan is not. I tried multiple video cards (Both those that take there own PS connection and those that didnt) with the same results, the video fans never start spinning. I tried removing everything except 1 HDD, Video and 1 stick of ram (tried with multiple sticks of ram as I have 2 in the machine, 1 at a time) with the same results.

Im really at a loss as to what course of action to attempt. I did take the Heat Sink off the Processor, and it does look crappy, so I am going to clean it up and put some new on it, and generally clean any dust out of the system, but I dont really see why that would cause the video cards to never spin up there fans.

Any help would be most appreciated, and if I need other information, let me know, and ill post again when im at home and have everything right there to see.

Thanks for your time, and help.

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#2 garmanma

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Posted 03 February 2010 - 11:28 AM

When you're swapping out various video cards are you installing the compatible driver every time?
A corrupt video drive and sleep mode do not play well together

I tried multiple video cards (Both those that take there own PS connection and those that didnt) with the same results,

The 12 volt trace on the motherboard could be bad. The power supply itself could be bad
Closely inspect the motherboard for any leaking or bulging capacitors
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#3 jdinges27

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Posted 03 February 2010 - 11:36 AM

I will check the MB tonight when I have it all apart to clean it all really good.

As for the video drivers, I cant uninstall anything, as the computer itself never actually boots up anymore. When I power it on, I see the fans kick on for everything except the video (regardless if its drawing the power from MB or PSU itself) sits there for 10-15 seconds, never displaying an image, then just powers down. Never gets any farther.

#4 MrBruce1959

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Posted 03 February 2010 - 03:43 PM

Do you have a VOM meter?
If you do, disconnect everything from the PSU and check all the voltages coming from the PSU, there should be both +3.3 volts +5 volts and +12 volts readings.
Black wires are always Ground -5 Volts and -12 volts.
RED are +5 volts YELLOW is usually +12 volts.
All cooling fans use +12 volts.
Check to see if you're getting the correct voltages, if you are, then its time to move onto the motherboard.

You stated that even if you connect a power wire coming directly from the PSU, the fan does not spin. yet all your other fans do..does your Optical drive lights blink when you power up the PC?
Optical drives are powered off of the +12 Volt bridge rectifiers, if those do blink at bootup, it means you're at least getting a +12/-12 volt supply from the rectifiers.
Whether there is enough Amps to supply the whole system or not is another issue, but when booting up, you can use a VOM meter to monitor off one un-used circuit to see if Voltage and or Amps drops well below the power supplies rated specs.
What ever wire harrness your connecting to the video card, check that for voltage, there may be a broke wire or one that is not properly crimpted into its pin in the power connector.

By the way, a VOM is also called a Volt/Ohm Multitester/Meter, they have both digital and analog ones.

Edited by MrBruce1959, 03 February 2010 - 04:00 PM.

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#5 jdinges27

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Posted 03 February 2010 - 04:09 PM

I do have VOM meter here at work and will be taking it home to test the PSU and see if its putting out the volts it needs to.

I cannot remember for sure if the lights came on or not, as when I walked away from it last night, I didnt plug all of those things back in, and just cant remember if they came on or not, however I will note it for trouble shooting purpose.

Ill have to see what I can find for the AMP rating on the PSU, as I dont remember what it should be, nor what kind it is..... hers hoping I have a box for it in the closet still.

Thanks for the idea, ill post after I check it tonight when im home.

#6 garmanma

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Posted 03 February 2010 - 08:43 PM

Caution: There are electronics inside the case that are very susceptible to electrostatic discharges. To protect your computer, touch the metal of the case to discharge yourself of any electrostatic charges your body may have stored before touching any of the components inside. As a safety precaution you should unplug the computer to avoid electrical shock.
-----------------
The purpose of this procedure is to bypass the motherboard to test the PSU.

Caution:
This procedure will involve working with live 12VDC electrical potentials which if handled improperly may lead to electrical shock. Proper precautions should also be taken to prevent electrostatic discharges (ESDs) within the case of the computer. For safety purposes please follow the instructions step by step.

First, shutdown your computer. Then unplug the power cable going into your computer.

Once you have opened the case, touch the metal of the case to discharge any static electricity.

The connector of the PSU which connects to the motherboard is readily recognizable by the number of wires in the bundle. To disconnect it you will need to press on the plastic clip to disengage it and then pull the connector up and away from the motherboard. Please take notice of the location of the locking tab and the notch on the socket of the motherboard, this will only connect one way as it is keyed. This wire bundle will have a memory of the way it has been installed and will want to bend back that direction, you may have to play around with it to find a position that the connector will stay in the same position while you run the test.

Posted Image
www.playtool.com

From the top left to right the pins are 13-24, the bottom from left to right are 1-12.


Please notice that there are PSUs with 24 pin and 20 pin connectors, the location of the green wire in the 24 pin connector is #16, and the green wire in the 20 pin connector is #14. If you look at the connector with socket side facing you and the clip on the top the number one pin will be on the bottom left corner. This makes the pin out for the 24 pin connector from left to right 13-24 on top, and 1-12 on the bottom. The pin out for the 20 pin connector from left to right is 11-20 on top , and 1-10 on the bottom. If you look at the connectors you notice that these are sockets that fit over the pins on the motherboard where the PSU cable attaches, this is where you will place the jumper. For a jumper you will need a piece of solid wire about the size of a paper clip (20-22 awg), preferably a wire with insulation. It will need to be large enough to fit firmly into the socket so that it will not need to be held in place while testing. You are at risk of electrical shock if you are holding the jumper when you power up the PSU. Insert one end of the jumper into the socket of the Green wire, and insert the other end into the socket of any Black wire.

Once the jumper is in place plug the cord back in. If the PSU is working properly the case fans, optical drives, hdds, and LEDs should power up and remain on. I would suggest that you not leave this connected any longer than is necessary for safety purposes.

To reconnect the 20/4 pin connector unplug the power cord, remove the jumper, and reconnect the connector. Take a moment at this time to make sure that nothing has been dislodged inside the case.
---------------------------
At this point you can use a DC Voltage meter to read the different rail Voltages. You will want to insert the black probe into any of the Black (-) sockets, and insert the Red (+) probe in the five different colored sockets, one at a time. Below are the five different colors and their corresponding rail Voltages. The Voltages should be within about ten percent of the given values.

Yellow +12VDC

Blue -12VDC

Red +5VDC

White -5VDC

Orange +3.3VDC


24 pin ATX pinout
http://pinouts.ru/Power/atx_v2_pinout.shtml
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#7 MrBruce1959

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Posted 03 February 2010 - 09:25 PM

Ill have to see what I can find for the AMP rating on the PSU, as I dont remember what it should be, nor what kind it is..... hers hoping I have a box for it in the closet still.


Usually there is a label on the PSU's case with all the info you're looking for.

I also suggest you follow garmanma's instructions posted above, I wish I knew how to add picture's to posts, as his is a very good pictural layout and he does cover a few things I should have included, but basically, my post was just a suggestion.

Thanks garmanma , your post was very educational to me as well. :thumbsup:

Edited by MrBruce1959, 03 February 2010 - 09:28 PM.

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#8 jdinges27

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Posted 03 February 2010 - 09:46 PM

Update:

I cleaned everything out with compressed air, alcohol and redid the thermal compound on the processor. And now.....

The machine stays on running.

However, there is still NO video.
The card that pulls through its own power connectors, the fans still will not spin up.
The card that pulls power through the mother board, spins, but no video.

I am also not getting any audio beeps from teh system speaker.

I also noticed that the lights in my keyboard and mouse are not coming on, however the machine is sitting running currently, and has been for around 5-10 min now.
I also hooked the SATA DVD player back up, to see if it would cycle, and while the Green light does in fact come on, it refuses to open. just sits there when I press the eject button

Voltages from an Optical connector are

Red : 5.10 Volts
Yellow: 12.41 volts

To test the other end of the cable bundle I will have to take the machine in to work. Im just not comfortable doing that at home where its not on a bench and I can move around it easier.

Edited by jdinges27, 03 February 2010 - 09:58 PM.


#9 jdinges27

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Posted 04 February 2010 - 10:10 AM

More test results.

All came back good except white. My white wire is reading either 0.00 or -0.01 Nothing else.

All the others came back +~- .5v within what you guys posted it should.

#10 garmanma

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Posted 04 February 2010 - 02:37 PM

MrBruce, I've sent you a PM

Pay no attention to the white wire
How old is the motherboard?
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#11 jdinges27

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Posted 04 February 2010 - 02:43 PM

The mother board is roughly 4-5 months. I have a tech support ticket into EVGA about it as well, just in case we think thats what it is so I can request an RMA sooner.

#12 MrBruce1959

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Posted 04 February 2010 - 06:44 PM

MrBruce, I've sent you a PM


Thank you very much garmanma I got that PM! :thumbsup:
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#13 MrBruce1959

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Posted 04 February 2010 - 07:18 PM

jdinges27 do you have the power cord's of both the monitor and computer pluged into a "surge protection" device?
Is there a possibility that you had a power failure some time from Monday night into Tuesday?
An electrical storm (lightening) in your area during this time?
If so, maybe you had a power surge, or lightening traveled down your internet source.
Most automatic windows updates only restart the PC if the install required a restart, it never shuts them down, if it was any hardware related install, usually those do not install without your approving it, critical updates are usually malware removal tools or IE patchs. Those do require a restart and windows will restart the PC automatically by default.

Edited by MrBruce1959, 04 February 2010 - 07:24 PM.

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#14 jdinges27

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Posted 04 February 2010 - 08:43 PM

I have everything always plugged into surge protectors, as I KNOW the damage they can cause NOT being there (I work in teh office equipment field), so I ALWAYS have them on.


In talking with EVGA I have done done a bench test on the motherboard, and its still not changing its diag code, which is FF, and it should be reading F7 or something like that, Video Error or something....


So im thinking were getting to the point of saying its the Motherboard thats causing the problem....

#15 MrBruce1959

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Posted 04 February 2010 - 11:44 PM

So im thinking were getting to the point of saying its the Motherboard thats causing the problem....



Yes I'm agreeing with you on that one.
If your motherboard is still under some type of warrenty....
I'd send the MB back for another board if their policy allows that.

Edited by MrBruce1959, 04 February 2010 - 11:46 PM.

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