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Another Hard Drive Down? What gives?


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#1 slyblackdragon

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Posted 08 March 2009 - 03:04 PM

O.K. So about a week ago my slave D: died on me. I was having some issues with computer overall and followed all the guides on this site, but it still didn't run "right" if you understand. So I decided to reformat and start over. After reformatting my hard drive, it now freezes at the XP loading page. I figured it was just an anomaly so I reformatted again, but I still have the same problem.

I am assuming my hard drive is crapping out on me now, but I find it odd that two hard drives go down in such a short amount of time. Before I purchase a new hard drive I would like to find out exactly what the problem is. I don't want to purchase a new hard drive when I don't need it, or even worse kill another one before solving the problem.

Anything you can do to help would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Sean

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#2 Sneakycyber

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Posted 08 March 2009 - 05:19 PM

Try running the Manufactures Testing software for the drives. you can find the download on this thread. It may be coincidence that the drives failed near the same time. Are they about the same age?

Chad Mockensturm 

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#3 OldPhil

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Posted 08 March 2009 - 05:22 PM

This may not play out for you but I had a similar issue a few years back when I was trying to load Windows, it would lock and if left alone for a few hours all of a sudden it would continue the load. I hesitated to load any programs until I got an answer, a tech I know said two check the voltage out of the power supply. I thought that was a little odd but he hit it on the head, My drives were running on about 1/2 the voltage they should have been. A new power supply and it was cured, if you have a volt meter it is a simple thing to check. You can Google the board plugs voltages.

Phil

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#4 Sneakycyber

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Posted 08 March 2009 - 05:24 PM

Good Idea Phil :thumbsup:

The purpose of this procedure is to bypass the motherboard to test a ATX PSU. Some manufacturers Like Dell have used some non ATX PSUs which have a different pinout for the 20/4 pin connector, please confirm that your PSU is a ATX type before using this procedure.

Caution:
This procedure will involve working with live 12VDC electrical potentials which if handled improperly may lead to electrical shock. Proper precautions should also be taken to prevent electrostatic discharges (ESDs) within the case of the computer. For safety purposes please follow the instructions step by step.

First, shutdown your computer. Then unplug the power cable going into your computer.

Once you have opened the case, touch the metal of the case to discharge any static electricity.

The connector of the PSU which connects to the motherboard is readily recognizable by the number of wires in the bundle. To disconnect it you will need to press on the plastic clip to disengage it and then pull the connector up and away from the motherboard. Please take notice of the location of the locking tab and the notch on the socket of the motherboard, this will only connect one way as it is keyed. This wire bundle will have a memory of the way it has been installed and will want to bend back that direction, you may have to play around with it to find a position that the connector will stay in the same position while you run the test.

Posted Image

From the top left to right the pins are 13-24, the bottom from left to right are 1-12.


Please notice that there are PSUs with 24 pin and 20 pin connectors, the location of the green wire in the 24 pin connector is #16, and the green wire in the 20 pin connector is #14. If you look at the connector with socket side facing you and the clip on the top the number one pin will be on the bottom left corner. This makes the pin out for the 24 pin connector from left to right 13-24 on top, and 1-12 on the bottom. The pin out for the 20 pin connector from left to right is 11-20 on top , and 1-10 on the bottom. If you look at the connectors you notice that these are sockets that fit over the pins on the motherboard where the PSU cable attaches, this is where you will place the jumper. For a jumper you will need a piece of solid wire about the size of a paper clip (20-22 awg), preferably a wire with insulation. It will need to be large enough to fit firmly into the socket so that it will not need to be held in place while testing. You are at risk of electrical shock if you are holding the jumper when you power up the PSU. Insert one end of the jumper into the socket of the Green wire, and insert the other end into the socket of any Black wire.

Once the jumper is in place plug the cord back in. If the PSU is working properly the case fans, optical drives, hdds, and LEDs should power up and remain on. I would suggest that you not leave this connected any longer than is necessary for safety purposes.

To reconnect the 20/4 pin connector unplug the power cord, remove the jumper, and reconnect the connector. Take a moment at this time to make sure that nothing has been dislodged inside the case.

Edited by Sneakycyber, 08 March 2009 - 05:25 PM.

Chad Mockensturm 

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#5 slyblackdragon

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 02:25 AM

Haven't had the balls to test my power supply yet Sneakycyber, but I do have new information.

Just now I was able to boot in Safe Mode with Networking and everything seems to be O.K. Does that mean anything?

#6 Sneakycyber

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 04:42 AM

Just that you are able to access the HDD at that time, not that its no longer bad. It could continue working or it could fail completely. If you are able to, save your important files just in case.

Chad Mockensturm 

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#7 slyblackdragon

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 11:36 AM

I just reformatted, so there aren't any important files.

So you think it is my hard drive rather than my power supply?




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