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Dell Inspiron 1501 not working


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#1 big--phil

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Posted 26 October 2008 - 09:26 AM

Hi,

My friend has a Dell Insprion 1501. She was using it and smoke came out of it and it stopped working and doesn't turn on anymore. She thinks it over heated. She has since bought a new laptop.

I was wondering is there anyway I can check what exactly is broken and possibly how can I fix it.

I have taken the RAM out of it and it works fine in another laptop.

Any help would be appreciated.

:thumbsup:

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#2 dc3

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Posted 26 October 2008 - 11:03 AM

When you try to start it up does anything happen, fans spin up, LEDs come on?

The first thing I would do is look for burn marks on the motherboard, or smoke residue. The next thing I would do would be to test the PSU separately from the motherboard. The motherboard is integral to starting the PSU, so you will need to by pass the motherboard to test the PSU itself. Below are instructions for doing this.

Testing PSU

The purpose of this procedure is to bypass the motherboard to test the PSU.

Caution:
This procedure will involve working with live 12VDC electrical potentials which if handled improperly may lead to electrical shock. Proper precautions should also be taken to prevent electrostatic discharges (ESDs) within the case of the computer. For safety purposes please follow the instructions step by step.

First, shutdown your computer. Then unplug the power cable going into your computer.

Once you have opened the case, touch the metal of the case to discharge any static electricity.

The connector of the PSU which connects to the motherboard is readily recognizable by the number of wires in the bundle. To disconnect it you will need to press on the plastic clip to disengage it and then pull the connector up and away from the motherboard. Please take notice of the location of the locking tab and the notch on the socket of the motherboard, this will only connect one way as it is keyed. This wire bundle will have a memory of the way it has been installed and will want to bend back that direction, you may have to play around with it to find a position that the connector will stay in the same position while you run the test.

Posted Image

From the top left to right the pins are 13-24, the bottom from left to right are 1-12.


Please notice that there are PSUs with 24 pin and 20 pin connectors, the location of the green wire in the 24 pin connector is #16, and the green wire in the 20 pin connector is #14. If you look at the connector with socket side facing you and the clip on the top the number one pin will be on the bottom left corner. This makes the pin out for the 24 pin connector from left to right 13-24 on top, and 1-12 on the bottom. The pin out for the 20 pin connector from left to right is 11-20 on top , and 1-10 on the bottom. If you look at the connectors you notice that these are sockets that fit over the pins on the motherboard where the PSU cable attaches, this is where you will place the jumper. For a jumper you will need a piece of solid wire about the size of a paper clip (20-22 awg), preferably a wire with insulation. It will need to be large enough to fit firmly into the socket so that it will not need to be held in place while testing. You are at risk of electrical shock if you are holding the jumper when you power up the PSU. Insert one end of the jumper into the socket of the Green wire, and insert the other end into the socket of any Black wire.

Once the jumper is in place plug the cord back in. If the PSU is working properly the case fans, optical drives, hdds, and LEDs should power up and remain on. I would suggest that you not leave this connected any longer than is necessary for safety purposes.

At this point you can use a DC Voltage meter to read the different rail Voltages. You will want to insert the black probe into any of the Black (-) sockets, and insert the Red (+) probe in the five different colored sockets, one at a time. Below are the five different colors and their corresponding rail voltages. The Voltages should be within about ten percent plus or minus of the given values.

Yellow +12VDC

Blue -12VDC

Red +5VDC

White -5VDC

Orange +3.3VDC



To reconnect the 20/4 pin connector unplug the power cord, remove the jumper, and reconnect the connector. Take a moment at this time to make sure that nothing has been dislodged inside the case.

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#3 garmanma

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Posted 26 October 2008 - 11:37 AM

It's a laptop dc3. Better get a second cup of coffee :thumbsup:
You will have to take it apart and look for clues. Even then it might not be readily noticeable

Edited by garmanma, 26 October 2008 - 11:39 AM.

Mark
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why won't my laptop work?

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#4 dc3

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Posted 26 October 2008 - 11:50 AM

Missed that one Mark, thanks. My gout meds are cutting my short term memory down drastically. :flowers: Think I'll sit out for a while. :thumbsup:

Dan

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#5 garmanma

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Posted 26 October 2008 - 12:34 PM

My gout meds are cutting my short term memory down drastically

Ouch! Take care of yourself
Mark
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#6 big--phil

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Posted 26 October 2008 - 01:07 PM

Hi,

I opened up the laptop and there is smoke residue on the case between the touchpad and the keyboard. On the motherboard, there is a melted chip. The chip is pretty small and I can't see any letters on it. I think it has 6 or 8 connections from it.

There was also a small loose piece of metal in the case when I opened it. It seemed to come from just beside the melted chip and it broke off. The piece of metal was a few mm by a few mm in size and was cylindrical.

Thanks for helping.

:thumbsup:

#7 dc3

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Posted 26 October 2008 - 01:26 PM

If it is worth it to you, you will need to replace the motherboard. With the type of failure that you have experienced I would be surprised if only the one chip was damaged, depending on what shorted to the different voltage paths it could have taken out the CPU and or the RAM as well. Can you tell where the piece of metal came from?

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#8 big--phil

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Posted 26 October 2008 - 01:36 PM

The piece of metal seemed to have been stuck on the motherboard right beside the melted chip.

Also, the melted chip is quite close to where the battery attachs to the motherboard/PSU.

I put the RAM in another laptop and that works fine.

My friend doesn't plan on spending any money on it and has basically let me have it. If it can be fixed, it's a bonus but if not at least I can get some practice looking around the inside of a laptop.

By the way, is there any way I can access the harddrive and get stuff off it, assuming it's ok?

Also, do you know of any where I can learn about the inside of a laptop/computer?

Thanks for the help.

:thumbsup:

#9 garmanma

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Posted 26 October 2008 - 04:59 PM

By the way, is there any way I can access the hard drive and get stuff off it, assuming it's ok?

Get a USB hard drive enclosure for a laptop hard drive. Similar to this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16817347013
Don't really know what's available on your side of the pond.

Also, do you know of any where I can learn about the inside of a laptop/computer?

This is for a Dell, but very descriptive. They're all different:
http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/syst...sm_en/index.htm
Toshiba:
http://www.irisvista.com/tech/
Mark
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why won't my laptop work?

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#10 big--phil

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Posted 27 October 2008 - 05:58 AM

Thanks,

that's helpful :thumbsup:

#11 big--phil

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Posted 28 October 2008 - 09:44 AM

Hey Garmanma,

If I was to buy an enclosure for a laptop harddrive, would the enclosure work for most laptop harddrives?

How do I know what enclosure will suit my laptop enclosure? It would be cool if I could get an enclosure suited to both my friends (dell inspiron 1501) and my own (advent 7105) and obviously as suited to as many others as possible.

Just if you have any thoughts or advice, it'd be cool. :thumbsup:

By the way, www.komplett.ie is a great irish computer website i'd probably buy it from.

This is their enclosures:
http://www.komplett.ie/k/search.aspx?q=har...=10095&mfr=

#12 dc3

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Posted 28 October 2008 - 10:00 AM

The external enclosure is connected via the USB port, this means that it should work with any computer with a working USB port. If this is going to have Windows on it I wouldn't try to boot from another computer as this could damage the operating system, for more information on this read this article.

One other consideration, if this external enclosure is going to be used with a laptop I would try to find an enclosure that has its own power supply. This way it will not be drawing of the laptop's power reducing the battery's longevity.

Family and loved ones will always be a priority in my daily life.  You never know when one will leave you.

 

 

 

 


#13 garmanma

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Posted 28 October 2008 - 10:24 AM

The first 2, while powered by USB, are nice because they accept IDE and SATA. I have a Coolmax, just like it. I save all of my old power adapters and found one to match the unit
http://www.komplett.ie/k/ki.aspx?sku=339052
Mark
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why won't my laptop work?

Having grandkids is God's way of giving you a 2nd chance because you were too busy working your butt off the 1st time around
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#14 big--phil

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Posted 28 October 2008 - 10:34 AM

Thanks for the help :thumbsup:

If I got an enclosure, would I access the harddrive in the enclosure the same as accessing an external harddrive (ie plug in the usb and just open through windows explorer or whatever), or must I boot from the enclosed harddrive?

I don't particularly want to boot from the enclosed harddrive, i'd just like to get files off it.

With the enclosure, is the harddrive now pretty much like an external harddrive?

thanks again. :flowers:

Ps the service manual for the dell was cool.

#15 dc3

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Posted 28 October 2008 - 10:56 AM

It effectively would be exactly that, an external hard drive.

Depending on the BIOS of the computer that you are using you may not be able to boot from it. I you were able to you would be facing another possible problem with the registry recognizing the different chipset than the one on the original motherboard which could result in damage to the operating system. For an explanation of this try reading this article.

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