Hello,
After lurking through various forums I decided to try this one out to see if I can get some help. Hope this is in the section!
I have a custom-build computer (built a far while back, maybe 2 years-ish) that randomly restarts multiple times a day (literally took me 4 or 5 attempts just to sign up to this forum). It has been doing this for a long time.
This I have done so far:
* Multiple hard-drive formats and windows re-installs.
* Got my cousin who runs a small computer tech
shop (only one in my town) to check all inside components to ensure they we're connected right. He cleaned the PC inside. He believes it may be the power supply or possibly the motherboard (hope not), but he has no spare parts to change them out and test to see if they are the problem.
* Monitored comp temps; all are fine, so it's not heat related.
* Turned off "automatic restart" option in advanced setting to see if i got an ertror on restart, no luck. Also ran in safe mode, still got restarts, so makes me beleive it's hardware related.
The other strange thing is that my screen resolution also goes funny and changes when restarts happen. It's now on 1440x900, but it only appears as if it we're 800x600.
Could it be the cmos battery? I also get a "overclocking failed, load default settings, press F2" error when I start my computer. Besides these problems, my computer runs perfect. I am a music producer so this interrupts my recording so so so much and any help would be greatly appreciated. I live 2.5 hours away from any center where I could put my PC in to a certificated technician or buy spare parts.
Comp info includes: Windows 7 x64
Asus P5K motherboard
Mushkin 550 watt powersupply
intel Q6600 quad core ( I believe, not 100% sure!)
kingston DDR 800 2x2gig
EVGA g-force 8500 256MB 128bit
Voltages: VCORE: 1.240
3.3V: 3.328
5V: 5.064
12V: 11.872
Temps: CPU Temp: 34° C
MB temp: 28° C
Hope I can get some insight, I'd like to have so kind of idea, maybe I can fix this without having to buy more things, I'f i do thats fine, but i need to know for sure what to buy because I can't afford to dish out $$ for a new motherboard and power supply without knowing if thats the even the problem!
Thanks!
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Computer randomly restarts No one can solve this puzzle so far lol
#2
Posted 25 April 2010 - 08:00 PM
Could be a number of things, I would start with the PSU, if could be going bad and shorting out.
The purpose of this procedure is to bypass the motherboard to test a ATX PSU. Some manufacturers Like Dell have used some non ATX PSUs which have a different pinout for the 20/4 pin connector, please confirm that your PSU is a ATX type before using this procedure.
Caution: This procedure will involve working with live 12VDC electrical potentials which if handled improperly may lead to electrical shock. Proper precautions should also be taken to prevent electrostatic discharges (ESDs) within the case of the computer. For safety purposes please follow the instructions step by step.
First, shutdown your computer. Then unplug the power cable going into your computer.
Once you have opened the case, touch the metal of the case to discharge any static electricity.
The connector of the PSU which connects to the motherboard is readily recognizable by the number of wires in the bundle. To disconnect it you will need to press on the plastic clip to disengage it and then pull the connector up and away from the motherboard. Please take notice of the location of the locking tab and the notch on the socket of the motherboard, this will only connect one way as it is keyed. This wire bundle will have a memory of the way it has been installed and will want to bend back that direction, you may have to play around with it to find a position that the connector will stay in the same position while you run the test.

www.playtool.com
From the top left to right the pins are 13-24, the bottom from left to right are 1-12.
Please notice that there are PSUs with 24 pin and 20 pin connectors, the location of the green wire in the 24 pin connector is #16, and the green wire in the 20 pin connector is #14. If you look at the connector with socket side facing you and the clip on the top the number one pin will be on the bottom left corner. This makes the pin out for the 24 pin connector from left to right 13-24 on top, and 1-12 on the bottom. The pin out for the 20 pin connector from left to right is 11-20 on top , and 1-10 on the bottom. If you look at the connectors you notice that these are sockets that fit over the pins on the motherboard where the PSU cable attaches, this is where you will place the jumper. For a jumper you will need a piece of solid wire about the size of a paper clip (20-22 awg), preferably a wire with insulation. It will need to be large enough to fit firmly into the socket so that it will not need to be held in place while testing. You are at risk of electrical shock if you are holding the jumper when you power up the PSU. Insert one end of the jumper into the socket of the Green wire, and insert the other end into the socket of any Black wire.
Once the jumper is in place plug the cord back in. If the PSU is working properly the case fans, optical drives, hdds, and LEDs should power up and remain on. I would suggest that you not leave this connected any longer than is necessary for safety purposes.
To reconnect the 20/4 pin connector unplug the power cord, remove the jumper, and reconnect the connector. Take a moment at this time to make sure that nothing has been dislodged inside the case
At this point you can use a DC Voltmeter to read the different rail Voltages. You will want to insert the black probe into any of the Black (-) sockets, and insert the Red (+) probe in the five different colored sockets, one at a time. Below are the five different colors and their corresponding rail Voltages. The Voltages should be within about ten percent of the given values.
Yellow +12VDC
Blue -12VDC
Red +5VDC
White -5VDC
Orange +3.3VDC
The purpose of this procedure is to bypass the motherboard to test a ATX PSU. Some manufacturers Like Dell have used some non ATX PSUs which have a different pinout for the 20/4 pin connector, please confirm that your PSU is a ATX type before using this procedure.
Caution: This procedure will involve working with live 12VDC electrical potentials which if handled improperly may lead to electrical shock. Proper precautions should also be taken to prevent electrostatic discharges (ESDs) within the case of the computer. For safety purposes please follow the instructions step by step.
First, shutdown your computer. Then unplug the power cable going into your computer.
Once you have opened the case, touch the metal of the case to discharge any static electricity.
The connector of the PSU which connects to the motherboard is readily recognizable by the number of wires in the bundle. To disconnect it you will need to press on the plastic clip to disengage it and then pull the connector up and away from the motherboard. Please take notice of the location of the locking tab and the notch on the socket of the motherboard, this will only connect one way as it is keyed. This wire bundle will have a memory of the way it has been installed and will want to bend back that direction, you may have to play around with it to find a position that the connector will stay in the same position while you run the test.

www.playtool.com
From the top left to right the pins are 13-24, the bottom from left to right are 1-12.
Please notice that there are PSUs with 24 pin and 20 pin connectors, the location of the green wire in the 24 pin connector is #16, and the green wire in the 20 pin connector is #14. If you look at the connector with socket side facing you and the clip on the top the number one pin will be on the bottom left corner. This makes the pin out for the 24 pin connector from left to right 13-24 on top, and 1-12 on the bottom. The pin out for the 20 pin connector from left to right is 11-20 on top , and 1-10 on the bottom. If you look at the connectors you notice that these are sockets that fit over the pins on the motherboard where the PSU cable attaches, this is where you will place the jumper. For a jumper you will need a piece of solid wire about the size of a paper clip (20-22 awg), preferably a wire with insulation. It will need to be large enough to fit firmly into the socket so that it will not need to be held in place while testing. You are at risk of electrical shock if you are holding the jumper when you power up the PSU. Insert one end of the jumper into the socket of the Green wire, and insert the other end into the socket of any Black wire.
Once the jumper is in place plug the cord back in. If the PSU is working properly the case fans, optical drives, hdds, and LEDs should power up and remain on. I would suggest that you not leave this connected any longer than is necessary for safety purposes.
To reconnect the 20/4 pin connector unplug the power cord, remove the jumper, and reconnect the connector. Take a moment at this time to make sure that nothing has been dislodged inside the case
At this point you can use a DC Voltmeter to read the different rail Voltages. You will want to insert the black probe into any of the Black (-) sockets, and insert the Red (+) probe in the five different colored sockets, one at a time. Below are the five different colors and their corresponding rail Voltages. The Voltages should be within about ten percent of the given values.
Yellow +12VDC
Blue -12VDC
Red +5VDC
White -5VDC
Orange +3.3VDC

Primary system: Motherboard: ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3, Processor: AMD Phenom II x4 945, Memory: 8 gigs of Patriot G2 DDR3 1600, Video: ASUS ATI 4890 and a Saphire 4890 in Crossfire, Storage: 1 WD 500 gig HD, 1 Hitachi 500 gig HD, and Power supply: Coolermaster 750 watt, OS: Windows 7 ultimate 64 bit.
Media Center: Motherboard: Gigabyte mp61p-S3, Processor: AMD Athlon 64 x2 6000+, Memory: 6 gigs Patriot DDR2 800, Video: Saphire 4850, Storage: 500 gig Hitachi, PSU: OCZ Fatal1ty 550 watt modular PSU, OS: Windows 7 Ultimate.
If I don't reply within 24 hours of your reply, feel free to send me a pm.
#3
Posted 25 April 2010 - 09:28 PM
Are you overclocking your computer at all? Have you updated the BIOS on your motherboard?
When you say it restarts - is it like a power cut (like you unplugged it), or does Windows actually shut down (as if you'd selected restart)?
When you say it restarts - is it like a power cut (like you unplugged it), or does Windows actually shut down (as if you'd selected restart)?
#4
Posted 25 April 2010 - 09:39 PM
Quote
Are you overclocking your computer at all? Have you updated the BIOS on your motherboard?
Not to my knowledge, i'v never set anything up to do so, just running at 2.4ghz
Quote
When you say it restarts - is it like a power cut (like you unplugged it), or does Windows actually shut down (as if you'd selected restart)?
It just restarts like u pulled the power cord out; instant shut off and then come back on again just like i hit the reset button on the computer.
Thanks for responses. I'll get my cousin to try that process you listed above.
#5
Posted 25 April 2010 - 09:44 PM
Quote
Have you updated the BIOS on your motherboard?
I'm having trouble finding a BIOS update for the Pk5 motherboard, I suck at navigating websites. lol
If someone could guide me through the process of finding an update and making a update CD i'd try to install a updated BIOS and see if that works. My BIOS is pretty weird in comparison to most i'v seen, maybe it does not an update lol
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