 Bad Power Supply or Motherboard |
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 Nov 7 2009, 07:01 PM
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New Member  Group: Members Posts: 7 Joined: 6-October 09 Member No.: 386,793  |
Comp Specs: MSI K9N4 AMD Athlon 64X 3gb ram 320gb WD HD 8800GTS vid card Creative XFI Vista 32bit |
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Nov 7 2009, 09:50 PM
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#2
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 High Tech Redneck Group: BC Advisor Posts: 1,520 Joined: 3-February 09 From: Wyoming USA Member No.: 291,155 |
there is a way to test the power supply, though Im not familiar enough with it to explain it to you. Typically when I want to test components, I swap them out with components I know work, or put them into a working computer. From your description, combined with my experience with MSI motherboards, I would bet failing motherboard. I would first check the capacitors and make sure theres none leaking and/or blown. I would also test the PSU in another system if you have one available.
oh, and what brand of PSU is it? |
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Nov 7 2009, 10:55 PM
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#3
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 Computer Masochist Group: Moderator Posts: 27,808 Joined: 27-January 07 From: Cleveland, Ohio Member No.: 108,618 |
Caution: There are electronics inside the case that are very susceptible to electrostatic discharges. To protect your computer, touch the metal of the case to discharge yourself of any electrostatic charges your body may have stored before touching any of the components inside. As a safety precaution you should unplug the computer to avoid electrical shock.
----------------- The purpose of this procedure is to bypass the motherboard to test the PSU. Caution: This procedure will involve working with live 12VDC electrical potentials which if handled improperly may lead to electrical shock. Proper precautions should also be taken to prevent electrostatic discharges (ESDs) within the case of the computer. For safety purposes please follow the instructions step by step. First, shutdown your computer. Then unplug the power cable going into your computer. Once you have opened the case, touch the metal of the case to discharge any static electricity. The connector of the PSU which connects to the motherboard is readily recognizable by the number of wires in the bundle. To disconnect it you will need to press on the plastic clip to disengage it and then pull the connector up and away from the motherboard. Please take notice of the location of the locking tab and the notch on the socket of the motherboard, this will only connect one way as it is keyed. This wire bundle will have a memory of the way it has been installed and will want to bend back that direction, you may have to play around with it to find a position that the connector will stay in the same position while you run the test.  From the top left to right the pins are 13-24, the bottom from left to right are 1-12. Please notice that there are PSUs with 24 pin and 20 pin connectors, the location of the green wire in the 24 pin connector is #16, and the green wire in the 20 pin connector is #14. If you look at the connector with socket side facing you and the clip on the top the number one pin will be on the bottom left corner. This makes the pin out for the 24 pin connector from left to right 13-24 on top, and 1-12 on the bottom. The pin out for the 20 pin connector from left to right is 11-20 on top , and 1-10 on the bottom. If you look at the connectors you notice that these are sockets that fit over the pins on the motherboard where the PSU cable attaches, this is where you will place the jumper. For a jumper you will need a piece of solid wire about the size of a paper clip (20-22 awg), preferably a wire with insulation. It will need to be large enough to fit firmly into the socket so that it will not need to be held in place while testing. You are at risk of electrical shock if you are holding the jumper when you power up the PSU. Insert one end of the jumper into the socket of the Green wire, and insert the other end into the socket of any Black wire. Once the jumper is in place plug the cord back in. If the PSU is working properly the case fans, optical drives, hdds, and LEDs should power up and remain on. I would suggest that you not leave this connected any longer than is necessary for safety purposes. To reconnect the 20/4 pin connector unplug the power cord, remove the jumper, and reconnect the connector. Take a moment at this time to make sure that nothing has been dislodged inside the case. --------------------------- At this point you can use a DC Voltage meter to read the different rail Voltages. You will want to insert the black probe into any of the Black (-) sockets, and insert the Red (+) probe in the five different colored sockets, one at a time. Below are the five different colors and their corresponding rail Voltages. The Voltages should be within about ten percent of the given values. Yellow +12VDC Blue -12VDC Red +5VDC White -5VDC Orange +3.3VDC -------------------- Mark
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Nov 8 2009, 11:14 AM
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#4
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New Member Group: Members Posts: 7 Joined: 6-October 09 Member No.: 386,793 |
QUOTE(the_patriot09 @ Nov 7 2009, 09:50 PM)  there is a way to test the power supply, though Im not familiar enough with it to explain it to you. Typically when I want to test components, I swap them out with components I know work, or put them into a working computer. From your description, combined with my experience with MSI motherboards, I would bet failing motherboard. I would first check the capacitors and make sure theres none leaking and/or blown. I would also test the PSU in another system if you have one available. oh, and what brand of PSU is it? Thanks for the replies. It's a Thermaltake W0101RU 550W |
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Nov 19 2009, 09:50 PM
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#5
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 Distinguished Member Group: Members Posts: 904 Joined: 12-September 06 From: Northern Ohio Member No.: 85,011 |
What is your system. What P.S. do you have. Just sound like a power supply over heating to me. Power supplies are in most cases if your system is store bought are at best the bottom line. It will never heart to just put a bigger and better one in. This could just save you a lot of pain. If it doesn't solve your problem you still have a nice backup P.S.
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